Sunday, April 12, 2015

Made it to Georgetown

Well we made it to Georgetown, Exuma in the Bahamas today Friday 10 April. We left Black Point on Great Guana Cay pulling up the anchor about 0800. The anchor was dug in but we were able to use the boat power to break it free and then Linda winched the line I attached to the anchor and I pulled up the chain. The anchor came up fairly easily. With the wind blowing 15-20 we kept the boat under power so we were able to haul the anchor and keep the boat under control.

Once we got the ground tackle secured we went to sail and had a very nice sail down the Banks in the 15 kts of breeze quickly catching and passing several other boats. At one point Linda got on the helm and found the autopilot was on standby. We had been sailing for some time with nobody on the helm, autopilot off and the boat sailed in a straight line not far off the plotted course. That means the boat was perfectly balanced and sailing without any helm. A sailboat can be steered through trimming its sails appropriately for the heading. It’s always nice to get such a confirmation. Of course, the boat also has to be designed to sail true.



Since the weather was a concern we left open the option of stopping at Little Farmer’s Cay or continuing on to Georgetown. Forecast was for winds 15-20 from the E or SE with seas 4-6’ and chance of rain. When sailing down the Banks the winds were as forecasted but more to the SE. Coming down the inside that was fine but crossing over to the ocean would put it just off the nose. When we were approaching the decision point I saw a boat on AIS offshore and radioed him and ask about conditions. He told us pretty much what we already knew but it confirmed for us that we wouldn’t be in for any surprises so we agreed to push on. We figured that we would motor sail with the main and staysail to get lift and power from the wind but none of the sails would flog.



We motored out the Galliot Cut without any surprises. The tide was coming in and the wind was behind it so it was rather docile. In a matter of minutes we were out in the ocean. The ride was not too bad. We were able to average about 7 kts so the 27mile trip took less than 4 hours. The wind and waves were pretty much as advertised and going into the waves at the angle we did the ride was not bad at all. There were a few bigger waves but all in all the ride was pleasant.

Shortly after we began heading south out in the ocean we got a call on the radio from a sailor inquiring about the conditions. I gave him the details and assured him it wasn’t too bad but he opted to go Saturday instead. Our concern with waiting was that even though the wind was forecasted to be a little less it would be more SE and right on the nose. With the wind as it was today I can get power and lift from the sails. Tomorrow would just be a slog into wind and waves and even if the wind was a little less it would not be as good.

Conditions here are actually quite normal for the season. These are normal trade winds that blow from the east. Some days it blows more south than east, some days more northerly. Some days it blows 10-15 and some days it blows 15-20. Boats like ours are made for these conditions so why shy away. Just unfortunate that we couldn’t have sailed more.



Here in Georgetown we opted to stay just north of the Harbor where all the cruisers stay. We are in Emerald Bay Marina which is part of the Sandals resort here because we couldn’t resist the deal. At this marina (which is very nice) they have an option with no services that is $.50 a foot plus they have a 10% discount for active or retired military. They have very nice floating docks, nice heads we can use to take a “real” shower, no traffic, a fitness center, free laundry, free trash  and a pool all for less than the cost of a mooring. Tomorrow we are renting a car to go to drive into Georgetown for shopping and dining. We can bike here, we don’t have to use gas in our dinghy and we are still only minutes from the Tropic of Cancer. We are about 12 minutes as I calculate it.

Speaking of the Tropic of Cancer. There is a note on the charts that the Tropic line is an estimation and that each year it changes. The currently designated tropic line is from 2013 and that it moves south a slight amount each year as the result of shifts in the earth’s axis. What impacts does that have on climate change? Does driving a hybrid have an effect on that?

Here in the Bahamas most places charge for water and trash disposal. Trash disposal is an amount per bag either $2 or $5. In Black Point they have a trailer by the dock and ask for donations. Here the marina charge is $.40 a gallon which is typical. At the marina in Nassau they charged $8 a day for water. In the 9 days we spent there we paid $56 for water but no doubt used more water than if we paid $.40 a gal. We added water to our tank 2x and washed the boat so I’m sure we got our share.


Living on board in the islands requires adoption of new routines. They’re not difficult but less adventuresome folks may find it difficult sacrificing land-based routines developed over a lifetime. For me in all the years of camping and being in the woods these don’t seem so unusual. To sacrifice the familiar conveniences in exchange for the beauties and pleasures of being here seem a bargain well supported by the sunsets, the people we meet and the beauty of the sea.     

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