Well we made it to Georgetown, Exuma in the Bahamas today
Friday 10 April. We left Black Point on Great Guana Cay pulling up the anchor
about 0800. The anchor was dug in but we were able to use the boat power to
break it free and then Linda winched the line I attached to the anchor and I
pulled up the chain. The anchor came up fairly easily. With the wind blowing
15-20 we kept the boat under power so we were able to haul the anchor and keep
the boat under control.
Once we got the ground tackle secured we went to sail and
had a very nice sail down the Banks in the 15 kts of breeze quickly catching
and passing several other boats. At one point Linda got on the helm and found the
autopilot was on standby. We had been sailing for some time with nobody on the
helm, autopilot off and the boat sailed in a straight line not far off the
plotted course. That means the boat was perfectly balanced and sailing without
any helm. A sailboat can be steered through trimming its sails appropriately
for the heading. It’s always nice to get such a confirmation. Of course, the
boat also has to be designed to sail true.
Since the weather was a concern we left open the option of
stopping at Little Farmer’s Cay or continuing on to Georgetown. Forecast was
for winds 15-20 from the E or SE with seas 4-6’ and chance of rain. When
sailing down the Banks the winds were as forecasted but more to the SE. Coming
down the inside that was fine but crossing over to the ocean would put it just
off the nose. When we were approaching the decision point I saw a boat on AIS
offshore and radioed him and ask about conditions. He told us pretty much what
we already knew but it confirmed for us that we wouldn’t be in for any
surprises so we agreed to push on. We figured that we would motor sail with the
main and staysail to get lift and power from the wind but none of the sails
would flog.
We motored out the Galliot Cut without any surprises. The
tide was coming in and the wind was behind it so it was rather docile. In a
matter of minutes we were out in the ocean. The ride was not too bad. We were
able to average about 7 kts so the 27mile trip took less than 4 hours. The wind
and waves were pretty much as advertised and going into the waves at the angle
we did the ride was not bad at all. There were a few bigger waves but all in
all the ride was pleasant.
Shortly after we began heading south out in the ocean we got
a call on the radio from a sailor inquiring about the conditions. I gave him
the details and assured him it wasn’t too bad but he opted to go Saturday
instead. Our concern with waiting was that even though the wind was forecasted
to be a little less it would be more SE and right on the nose. With the wind as
it was today I can get power and lift from the sails. Tomorrow would just be a
slog into wind and waves and even if the wind was a little less it would not be
as good.
Conditions here are actually quite normal for the season.
These are normal trade winds that blow from the east. Some days it blows more
south than east, some days more northerly. Some days it blows 10-15 and some
days it blows 15-20. Boats like ours are made for these conditions so why shy
away. Just unfortunate that we couldn’t have sailed more.
Here in Georgetown we opted to stay just north of the Harbor
where all the cruisers stay. We are in Emerald Bay Marina which is part of the
Sandals resort here because we couldn’t resist the deal. At this marina (which
is very nice) they have an option with no services that is $.50 a foot plus
they have a 10% discount for active or retired military. They have very nice
floating docks, nice heads we can use to take a “real” shower, no traffic, a
fitness center, free laundry, free trash and a pool all for less than the cost of a
mooring. Tomorrow we are renting a car to go to drive into Georgetown for
shopping and dining. We can bike here, we don’t have to use gas in our dinghy
and we are still only minutes from the Tropic of Cancer. We are about 12
minutes as I calculate it.
Speaking of the Tropic of Cancer. There is a note on the charts
that the Tropic line is an estimation and that each year it changes. The
currently designated tropic line is from 2013 and that it moves south a slight
amount each year as the result of shifts in the earth’s axis. What impacts does
that have on climate change? Does driving a hybrid have an effect on that?
Here in the Bahamas most places charge for water and trash
disposal. Trash disposal is an amount per bag either $2 or $5. In Black Point
they have a trailer by the dock and ask for donations. Here the marina charge
is $.40 a gallon which is typical. At the marina in Nassau they charged $8 a
day for water. In the 9 days we spent there we paid $56 for water but no doubt
used more water than if we paid $.40 a gal. We added water to our tank 2x and
washed the boat so I’m sure we got our share.
Living on board in the islands requires adoption of new
routines. They’re not difficult but less adventuresome folks may find it
difficult sacrificing land-based routines developed over a lifetime. For me in
all the years of camping and being in the woods these don’t seem so unusual. To
sacrifice the familiar conveniences in exchange for the beauties and pleasures
of being here seem a bargain well supported by the sunsets, the people we meet
and the beauty of the sea.
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