Sunday, December 22, 2019

Traveling through the land of Valencia Oranges

After our time in Barcelona we left early to go to Valencia our next destination. Getting around Spain was fairly easy as there were Autovias going the way we were. The Autovias were one of the major projects started by the dictator Francisco Franco modeling after his ally Adolf Hitler who built the Autobahns in Germany. After Franco's death the autovias were in disrepair and the new government began improving them to the condition they are today. Many of them are toll roads but we found four-lane limited access highways all over the area we traveled making getting around fairly easy.


Columbus Plaza in Valencia

We used the phone app Waze to help us and amazingly had all the data for all the roads but it was confusing hearing the computer voice try to pronounce the names. It often took a minute to understand what was being said before actually seeing the road sign. We made several extra trips around the roundabouts waiting for clarification from the delayed response. We also found that in the roundabouts the count was not always accurate as there were access roads that weren't counted and some of the roads counted were grave lanes. But overall the app guided us to exactly where we were going.


Bullfight poster for the bullring in Valencia.


Plaza de toros (Plaza of the bulls by the bullring).


La Gran Via in Valencia


One of the other major achievements of the Franco regime was the emphasis on agriculture. Unlike other collectivist farm projects Franco's worked and Spain continues to be a major exporter of produce to Europe and the world including the world famous Valencia oranges. So named for the region where they were grown. But we saw citrus groves from just south of Barcelona until we left the coast near Malaga and the citrus groves were replaced by olive groves.


La Gran Via in Valencia.

The drive took only a little over 4 hours and Waze had us going onto a street that was blocked so we followed traffic and eventually it got us to our hotel but we didn't see it so we had to go around several blocks again until we were back at the same spot and saw the single door with our hotel sign above it. We stayed in the Marriott AC Hotel in Valencia which was right on Columbus Plaza but the entrance was one door. We parked in a sort of standing lane that we thought would give me enough time to check in and then go to parking. Upon checking in I learned it was a local holiday and streets were blocked for parades and later demonstrations and the parking garage entrance was just behind us.

The Columbus Market in Valencia.

The street had three lanes of heavy traffic, this little nether lane I was in and a bike lane along the curb. So to avoid the traffic I backed up the bike lane so I could turn into the garage. As I was just about to make my turn into the garage a Valencia City police car stopped and started yelling at us for blocking the bike lane. I tried to explain we were turning into the garage and he finally left and we went into the garage.


The sailboat fountain by the beach. The top fountain was turned off.

This garage was typical of most parking garages where we traveled. Spaces were for very small cars and the turns were the size of the parking spaces expecting the car to turn 90 degrees in its own length. It was as bad as driving our boat in a marina with narrow fairways so having had practice I mastered the art well and we turned in the car without a scratch.


Looking up at the crowd on the beach making deafening noise.

One of our objectives in coming to Valencia was to see the city that was home to the Spanish food Paella, visit the wonderful museums and possibly the beach. But, having been rerouted because of the holiday it took longer to get in than we expected and then finding a restaurant for lunch took really long as many were closed for the holiday and those that were open were booked. So we found one of the markets that was open and had a paella version of fast food and then went on with our exploration.


Beach volleyball with a sailboat sailing over the sea.



Stopping by La Fabrica de Hielo (Ice Facotry) for a beer, snack and rest by the beach in Valencia.













 
We no longer had time for the wonderful museums so we went to the beach because there was a renowned sailboat fountain there. To get there we learned the Valencia bus routes which of course were different because of the holiday but managed to get on the right bus and found the beach. We found our fountain but not all of it was working. The beach was also overrun with young people who had apparently been in the parade and the din of the talking of these thousands of young people was as loud as jetliner on takeoff but it went on for blocks. We finally had to leave and found a nice little brew pub where we could snack, rest and plan what was left of the day.


A Valencia Paella at dinner.

We took the bus back to town and went to our hotel to freshen up. Later that evening we walked about and found a restaurant that was reputed to have good Paella and ordered a traditional Valenciana paella. Traditional Valencian paella is a bean, veggie rice dish with chicken, rabbit and snails that is usually baked in a grill or barbecue. It is a distinctive dish and usually very good.


An excavated Roman wall in Cartagena.

When we left the hotel a demonstration that started earlier had grown to a massive size with loud chanting. There were police in riot gear cordoning them off from bystanders and the police had armored vehicles in support. I never found out exactly what the protest was about or the intentions but when we returned from dinner it was gone. After traveling around Central America and other


 Military Museum of Cartagena. 
 

parts of Europe we have experienced many demonstrations and fortunately this one was benign. The hotel staff said it was "friendly." But, shortly after we left Barcelona demonstrations there erupted into violence over the jailing of Catalonian separatist leaders by the Spanish Supreme Court. So when traveling in any foreign countries it is important to have situational awareness of the political climate. Normally tourists are not targeted. But, one can be in the wrong place at the wrong time.


Square in Cartagena.

The next morning we packed up again and headed farther south to Cartagena. We were excited because we would get to see an old friend and fellow IP 420 owner Wendy Kravit from Annapolis who is living on her boat in that vicinity. It was also not a long drive  and we got there in the late morning.


The excavated ruins seen through the glass floor in the discount store.

We didn't have an issue finding our hotel this time and pulled into a loading zone to unload. But, then we went into the garage and contrary to reviews had no issues getting into it. Wendy met us shortly after we arrived and she gave us a tour of the old town.


Mosaic on a cathedral in Cartagena; "Star of the Sea Help your children."

Cartagena is an impressive city on so many levels. It dates back to the Phoenicians going back to many centuries BC. The exact date of founding is not known although it is identified as being founded by the Carthaginians in 277 BC. It was later conquered by the Romans and then suffered through the Moorish conquest and then the Spanish reconquest and became part of modern Spain. It's harbor is excellent and home to the Spanish Navy. There is a huge maritime presence and business there as witnessed by the marinas and marine facilities.


Municipal Administration of Cartagena.

Wendy took us around the town and showed us a floor in a dollar store that had been replaced with glass to allow viewing of Roman ruins that had been discovered during a building renovation and were now permanently showcased for all to see. After a quick lunch we drove out to meet two of Wendy's closest friends.


Yacht Port Cartagena Marina.

She introduced us to the couple that crewed with her when she took her boat across the Atlantic and have helped her with many projects and she has an office in their home. We had a wonderful discussion over drinks and then dinner and then back to our hotel where we talked for a long while on the street.


Roman ruins with a windmill situated atop the partially excavated ruins.

We had a very wonderful visit with our old and new friends and learned much about life there. Nigel had lived there for many years but was getting ready to move on because of continuing vandalism and theft along with a general unwillingness of local authorities to protect ex-pats. But, it seems that is not exclusive to Spain.


The view across Mar Menor at sunset. 

Life there has a lot to offer and we enjoyed our visit to the citrus growing region of Europe but time to move on for us as the clock was ticking. We had now spent a week in Spain and we had a lot more Spain to go.


After our wonderful day in Cartagena and dinner in Los Nietos with Wendy and her friends Nigel and Jennifer at their marina.


Wednesday, December 18, 2019

Getting back to the Cruising Life in Providencia


Amekaya at anchor in Providencia.

After our 60 hour passage to Providencia from Guanaja we were ready from some rest. But, it wasn't so much the actual passage we needed to recover from but the 6 months before when we were rushing to get things done before we actually did the passage so we could be ready to travel when our group came together and we got our needed weather window to make the passage. So with all that rushed preparation behind us and the actual passage completed we could now relax and get back to our cruising lifestyle.


Our original sailing group at lunch on the day before two of the boats left.

Many cruisers actually have schedules.We know many people this year that are in a hurry to get to the Panama Canal before the price increase. Others have their six month cruises. In the past we have had a few deadlines we needed to make and this year hitting the right departure conditions to get here to Providencia was one of those key dates. But, that's all behind us and when we get up in the morning there is no agenda for the day.







A community fete on the dock. The band is using local instruments.


















For the first week on anchor in Providencia we did very little except tasks around the boat and walk about town to provision and inquire about things we needed. As strange as it seems it actually took us almost a week after arriving to realize that we were now relieved of the stress of hitting the deadline








Relics of old Fort Warwick. A British establishment fromt he 18th Century overlooking the entrance to Santa Catalina harbor.


















and we now had no schedule. For several days we slept late, didn't do extreme adventures and generally just hung out on the boat and chilled. We got together with the others from our group often for happy hours or lunches and just enjoyed being in a new place very different from the Rio and the very familiar islands.


Out for dinner on the night the new arrivals made it. 

Providencia has had an interesting history. Originally settled by English Puritans with African slaves who were chased from the island by the Spanish. Eventually after their conquest they neglected the


islands and then it became home to  pirates including the famous Henry Morgan. A large rock edifice


Morgan's Crack

on the channel side of Santa Catalina is known as Morgan's Head and a split peak above the settlement is know as Morgan's Crack. After the fall of the Spanish Empire the islands migrated back to English control and then went to Colombia. There is currently a dispute in the World Court that has decided the islands should go to Nicaragua for no reason other than they're closer to that country. Colombia and the people refuse to accept the judgement.


Providencia from our dive boat in the swells.

Two boats from our group left for Panama the end of the week we arrived to stage for going through the canal. A week later two other boats left to go to San Andres and on to Panama. But, after they left three other boats that had planned to travel with us on our passage but were delayed, arrived although one didn't stop in Providencia and went on to Panama to make a canal passage. The other two stayed with us for about a week and then went on to Panama just before we left for San Andres.


The gap between Santa Catalina and Providencia islands.


Providencia is the perfect image of a tropical island. A mountainous ridge of rough peaks reaching hundreds of meters toward the sky. The lush rain forest canopy is made up of indigenous tropical hardwoods, fruit and palm trees. The island is ringed by a reef with small cays around it and the islanders live mostly on fish and imports from the mainland. The hillsides are very green and the water is very blue. Only about 6,000 people live on the island and in the high season several hundred tourists.  Providencia has an indigenous black crab that lives in the jungle most of the year and every spring migrates to the water to lay their eggs. There are thousands of them and the roads are closed as they make their way to the water.


Crab Cay just off the East side of Providencia.


The island of Providencia is beautiful anchoring spot. There are many peaks and the proximity to Santa Catalina makes for a wonderful anchorage. The islands are connected by a footbridge that breaks up most of the swell coming in from the north. Holding is good anchored off Santa Catalina and the islands block the prevailing easterly or northeasterly winds. The water was rich with nutrients from runoff caused by the frequent squalls.


Almond Bay Beach.


While we were in Providencia I was able to get in four dives. Conditions were not really favorable as the seas were rough with little protection offered by the small island. The time we were there we had frequent squalls wth lots of overcast and rain showers making visibility underwater less favorable. With the rain also came lots of runoff further reducing visibility. I dove with one of the local dive operators and each tank dive was less than $30/dive including them picking us up on our boats. Saw several black tip reef sharks on each dive and did the "Spiral" which is a vertical cave dive beginning at about 80 feet and going down to 120 ft. The first two dives I did with some of our other friends and we wanted to go out again after the other boats arrived but the weather wasn't conducive. As much as I like to dive as often as possible it's nice to have the luxury to only go out when it's pleasant.





 Southwest Bay















During our first week we went with several friends to a little place called the Lighthouse Cinema. It really wasn't a lighthouse or a cinema but they showed locally produced movies about the island and offered beverages and light snacks. I think we all had their hummus and veggies plate that came with a fantastic slice of toasted coconut bread with each serving. They didn't sell the bread but it would have been a great purchase.







Rolands Reggae Bar


















One day we rented a golf cart with some friends from the later group to arrive and went around the island. We stopped by several beaches and had lunch at a fantastic Rastafarian place on the south end of the island. The food was great and the scenery very authentic.  We also chilled out at a beautiful resort called Deep Blue. Seems like it would be a really great low stress vacation spot.


Deep Blue Resort

Currently there is interest by Colombia and commercial interests to develop Providencia to resemble the island of San Andres.  The two islands are night and day different. Separated by only 50 miles of water, Providencia with its 6,000 residents has unspoiled natural beauty where local fish is the primary food available at most restaurants. San Andres on the other hand has 100,000+ residents, high rise hotels, duty free shopping, big beaches and caters to mainland South American tourists.  Providencia has mostly indigenous islanders more akin to Caymans, Jamaica and the eastern Carib who speak Creole and English with a little Spanish. On San Andres Spanish is pervasive.


One of the bus stops around the island. Each one was very creative reflecting island life.

The government is pushing to expand the government dock to allow cruise ships to enter. It's not clear what kind of cruise ships but presumably smaller ones. It's hard to imagine what cruise ship passengers would do on the island. There is no infrastructure or services capable of handling large numbers. Presumably the operators and promoters will handle that to the exclusion of the local people that will have their lives disrupted.


View off the southern shore if the island.


We were able get some bottled water from one of the markets in the town to partially fill our tank and one day I jugged fuel to top off our fuel after the passage from Guanaja. We have plenty of resources on board to continue to San Andres and then to Panama. The markets in Providencia were good but


Cattle heading down the road to pasture.

lacking in large quantities of good fruits and vegetables. The supply chain for the island begins in mainland Colombia and goes to San Andres. Then it is loaded on a smaller boat for the trip to Providencia. But, it's still better than in the Bahamas The local islanders collect rainwater to use for most things and there is no public water and limited sanitation. There were many trash cans around town where we could dump our trash and appears to be recycling for bottles, cans and paper.


One of the many iconic churches around the island.

Providencia is an easy island to enjoy and just chill. The people were friendly and most had a fairly good use of English although the food selection was limited we could make do. Very easily could have stayed longer but a weather window presented itself so we moved on to San Andres to enjoy Christmas and New Year's Colombian style.


Our final sunset in Providencia.





Friday, November 29, 2019

The Island of Providence was calling


Sunset from El Bight on Guanaja

So we left Roatan on 21 November after a week and motored the thirty miles to Guanaja, We motored because there was little wind except for a squall that blew through. We had wind for 15 minutes in the squall and then it was just rain. We joined three other boats already there and waiting for the other 2 to plan our departure to Providencia.


A rainy voyage over to Guanaja

We left Guanaja on Saturday afternoon 23 November for Providencia but during the two days we were there we talked with others developing our rules of engagement for the trip, topped up with fuel and water, made last minute preparations and had 1 delightful dinner at Mi Casa Too.


Sunset from Mi Casa Too

In planning our passage to Providencia there were many important factors that we analyzed, considered and ultimately used in our travel decision. The two largest were security and weather on top of the usual considerations for passage planning.


Amekaya getting ready to depart

In the Western Caribbean is a large area that is geologically known as the Nicaraguan Rise. It begins in eastern Honduras and extends very far eastward down to northern Costa Rica. The area has many islands, shoals, banks and reefs that can confound navigation through them and because they are


The Fleet leaves El Bight

shallow are abundant in marine life so there are many fisherman working them for pelagic fish, shellfish and whatever else they can catch. These fisherman, often desperate for wealth, form a community of pirates that attack pleasure boats that pass through or near their fishing grounds in hopes of getting drugs, alcohol, weapons or saleable stuff to supplement their income.


The Fleet leaving Guanaja

These modern-day pirates make traversing this area of the Caribbean treacherous for pleasure craft along with the hazards of avoiding the shoals and reefs. To deal with this challenge many boats going to or from the Rio go as far north as the Cayman's and then south to Providencia adding many days to the trip and some boats making that passage report being attacked. Some boats oblivious to the risk simply go through the area. Others develop personal defense strategies like razor wire on board or spraying gasoline they hope to deploy in order to defeat the threat.



Sunset of the first day

We first developed our Caribbean plan over three years ago and knew we needed to make this corner in the northwest Carib to get to Panama. In our long-term plan to circumnavigate the Carib there are 3 difficult passages and this was one of them. We read other accounts and realized there were many issues to consider. Our solution from day one to deal with security was that we would need a group. Traveling in convoys, wagon trains, armadas or whatever has been used for centuries and seemed the appropriate response here as well. Whenever the question of firearms on sailboats come up lots of commentators have visions of firefights between pirates and boaters. As these fishermen are smart enough to attack en masse, if they have weapons, mom and pop on a sailboat will not win. The good news is that they have never attacked groups of boats because even if they come up in 2 or 3 small boats with 5 or 6 men in each boat that is only enough for one boat.


Another of our boats sailing.

Another major concern is weather. The Carib normally has heavy trade winds blowing east to west for a good part of the year. They normally lay down in late spring until early winter. In the Eastern Carib when they come up they're called the Christmas winds because that's when they usually begin. They can come earlier and last longer but once they start going east is tough. Heavy winds and high seas make any eastward travel difficult. So we knew our travel had to be after April and before December. Originally we planned to make the trip in May/June of 2018 but we changed that plan due to Linda's surgery. The next option was Fall of 2019. In the Fall, earlier is better.


Sailing in one of the squalls

Other key considerations included normal passage-making plans such as engine maintenance, rigging, equipping and stores. After returning to the Rio in July, we were busy working these concerns to be sure we and our boat were ready. There are few options along that route in the event of breakdowns. That included installing/replacing with many of the items we bought in the States over the summer that we carried back with us and those we shipped to Roatan that we picked up on the way to our departure point in Guanaja. On the trip from the Rio to Roatan our fuel filter accumulated sludge and water. I cleaned it out and replaced the element but was concerned more might develop on our trip to Providencia. It didn't.


Our friends and former dockmates ProfASea

So after returning from the States in September we focused on completing our equipment readiness, developing a group and looking at weather opportunities. I had actually started polling folks many months earlier that were considering a passage to Providencia from the Rio so I already had the makings of a group although I knew there would be adds and drops to it for various reasons.  I began hosting meetings in October when we got back from Spain to build interest and try to identify the group that would make the journey with us.


Fleetmate DaCapo motorsailing

We also began looking at weather that looked very favorable for going east with low winds and flat seas. There were even potential periods with north and west winds that would also work.


An approaching squall

So now we are in Guanaja with 4 of the 6 boats that shook out to form our flotilla. Weather looked promising for a departure on the 24th and arriving in Providencia the 26th given an assumption of travel rate of 6kts for the trip.


Waypoints of our proposed route and the course we actually traveled. The waypoints marked 245 were where 2 EPIRBS were deployed back in June by a boat that went missing. In reporting they were erroneously identified as being in the Gorda Banks. The Gorda Banks are near our waypoint 255.

We all met and agreed on the basic rules of engagement and conduct as noted. 
  1. We planned to depart Sunday at 0600. If the weather was too inclement we may delay until we have improved visibility but we have tracks so we should be able to leave in less than perfect conditions.
  2. Intent is to maintain a speed of at least 6 kts through the entire trip. We will have on deck level lights and AIS so the Colombian Coast Guard can track us by satellite. We will sail in a group with a radius of about 1/2nm. No boat should be more than 1 nm from any other at any time.
  3. Cost to check in to Providencia is CBP 116,000 or about US$40.
  4. In the event of a boat being approached everyone will break off their course and close-in on the attacker. We will contact the CG, make a mayday radio call, take pictures and videos of the attack.
  5. Here is a list nicknames to use for the trip We need DaCapo and Exile to provide us their's. Amekaya - Liberty. ProfASea - Buttercup. Tourterelle - Red Tortuga. Two Drfters - Simply Red. We will use these nicknames on the radio instead of boat names and no personal names will be used
  6. Waypoints - we will use the waypoints provided but instead of the last one we will head straight for the end of the Providencia channel. The channel is lit and marked so it is approachable in limited visibility.
  7. We expect to arrive midday. The preferred anchorage is near Santa Catalina the island to the north. We will contact our agent, meet him onshore and then go to check-in. Cost listed above.
  8. The only issues identified are some to do with autopilots and we will all use tracking to heading rather than waypoints to avoid close encounters. But, communicate with boats getting too close to maintain some distance and avoid collisions since we will be sailing close.
One of the keys to the success of a group is mutual support. In the event one boat is attacked everyone has to go to their aid. Attackers have to realize if they attack one boat they attack them all.  Single boats are on their own. It would take a major planning effort by small groups of fishermen to coordinate a simultaneous attack against a group of six boats. Stories abound of buddy boats abandoning their buddies during passages.


Two of the many fishing boats we passed. I believe they were shrimpers.

Another part of the puzzle was analyzing the data. We reviewed all the reported attacks in the area that were listed in the Caribbean Safety and Security Network (CSSN) and found that for all the perception there were only 3 reports of actual boardings going back to 2006 and one was at anchor. All the incidents reported were by single boats and many of the reports were simply "suspicious" activity. It's always important to understand the facts and not the myths.

Waypoints -
                          Guanaja -  N 16.26.000 W 85.51.3
                          1st Waypoint - N 16. 00.130 W  83.55.431
                          2nd Waypoint - N 15.33.8 W 82.54.0
                          3rd Waypoint - N 15.11.9 W 82.11.3
                          4th Waypoint - N 14.14.2 W 81.37.4             
                          Providencia - N 13.24.883 W 81.24.354

Late Friday night our other 2 boats joined us and we planned for another meeting Saturday and a team dinner but that would not happen. Given shifts in the weather we decided to move up our departure time from Sunday to Saturday afternoon. Several of the boats, including us, needed to check out of Honduras so we finished that up and hastily prepared to leave. We also found out with all boats present that one boat could not keep up 6 kts so we dropped our minimum speed to 5 kts.


Another developing squall

When we had to drop our minimum speed that extended the trip from about 50 hours to over 60 hours and changed the arrival and departure weather expectations as well as the time we would be in the crucial area of the trip in the most dangerous area. So we got ready to leave as soon as we could which left us in the middle of trying to prepare food for the trip that now wouldn't happen.

At just about 1500 on Saturday afternoon, 23 November we raised our anchors and headed for Providencia. The first waypoint was about 110 nm east so almost a day away and there is a light wind behind us (probably coming from the mainland) with a northeast swell that on occasion was rough but generally the ride was smooth and gentle. The first day came and went without issue.


One of the chances we got to sail

Overnight we watched the radar intently and tracked the other boats. It was very interesting watching the formation move along the path as people switched positions but for most of the night it made an impressive formation moving along. Anyone seeing it on radar must have wondered what this large object was slowly moving along the coast.

When the first morning came one of the other boats serenaded Linda with happy birthday because Sunday the 24th was her birthday. We've been all kinds of places for birthdays but this was the first time we were at sea and ironic that it was such a momentous crossing.

Weather the second day was similar to the first but we did have some wind to sail and several squalls blew through quickly. Some with wind and some without. The day quickly went to night and during our passage there was little moon as it was nearly new moon.


Catalina Harbor in Providencia

During the overnights the sky often cleared and you could see millions of stars in constellations into eternity. I couldn't help but think about the time of year and the significance of this passage. Remembering Thanksgiving weeks in the past and knowing that all over the US families would be traveling to get together for their holiday. Yet, here we were going through pirate waters expecting danger at every turn. If we made it we would truly have blessings for which to be thankful.

Monday morning came and we approached the Moskito Cays. One of the hotspots along the route and we saw several fishing boats dragging nets and lobster boats laying traps. We were passed by a freighter and a cruise ship heading north so at least there other signs of civilization.


The main port on Providencia

Just like the day before we had some very good sailing opportunities, some squalls that came through and more fishermen. One of our boats decided they wanted to sail faster and left the group although we still weren't to deep-water and they turned off their AIS. Later that afternoon a Colombian Coast Guard helicopter flew over us and looked at the fishing boats.

One of the fishing boats that was dragging a line was close to a couple of our boats but really made no threatening gestures other than trying to get on with their fishing. Shortly after that encounter we were in deep water.


The main drag on Providencia

As night fell a large squall appeared in front of us with just about 60 miles to go. Based on radar it appeared we could get around the north end of it as it was moving southwest so we continued on now in relatively safe water.

Linda woke me from a nap about 2300 and about 30 miles to go. I noticed that wind seemed to be favorable but we were only motoring about 6 kts. I pulled out the main but had it reefed and then the jib and we took off. For the rest of the way to Providencia we were averaging close to 8 kts often hitting 10 kts in the 15-20 kt winds right on the beam. At that speed the miles tick off quickly and we began to see the lights of our destination. The sky above was aglow with constellations and galaxies in every direction.


The Fleet at anchor in the setting sun.

About 10 miles out the Coast Guard called us each to report in and we did. It was more of a welcome to Colombia than official information. With a mile or two to go we pulled in the sails to moderate our speed. Aimed for the channel and followed one of our other boats in because they had been there before.

We got in the channel about 0400 and by 0430 everyone was in and anchored. Our journey was over. We had a beer in the cockpit and went to bed with a great sense of relief. This highly anticipated and worrisome passage was over and we were now free to enjoy cruising in the southwest Caribbean.


The Harbor Square

We slept until almost noon and the Coast Guard appeared to check us in and then an hour later our agent appeared with the appropriate authorities and we were checked in.  That Tuesday night we all met for beers at Big Mamas and toasted our success. Now normal life goes on as we adjust to our new normal after more than 2 years in Guatemala and almost constantly running since leaving the Bay Islands in June. Back to our relaxed cruising lifestyle. 


Morgan's Head in Providencia