Thursday, February 26, 2015

From fog to sunshine

Tuesday afternoon in Naples we were walking down the sunny and warm dock to do shopping when we noticed a wall of fog rolling in from the sea. It was not heavy at first but thickened as the day slid away and was forecasted to increase over night. We planned to leave at first light to head to Charlotte Harbor. Because the channel along the Gordon River through Naples Bay was narrow and led through numerous daymarks,it was essential to have reasonably good visibility.So we began to become concerned about our trip since it would take all day to travel the 60 miles from Naples to Punta Gorda.

When we got up Wednesday morning it was indeed foggy but with daylight it became apparent that visibility was not so bad but it still delayed our departure until about 7 so enough daylight was available. We knew that once we got to sea we would be fine but it was getting down the 3 and 1/2 mile channel and out the pass before we would be safe. So we left our Naples slip in dead calm and motored slowly down the channel as we went from mark to mark ensuring we did not get out of the channel because low tide was fast approaching.

We made offshore and motored along as the morning sun slowly burned away the haze. From Naples there is an inside route available by following Gulf Intracoastal Waterway that really picks up in San Carlos Bay south of Fort Myers and goes up through Pine Island Sound and into Charlotte Harbor. Although our preference is always for deeper water, the fog made the slightly shorter inside passage even more undesirable. Land is the enemy of boats so the safest thing is to stay in deep waterso we motored directly to the waters by Sanibel and Captiva Islands where land began to finally emerge from the mist.


We made good progress dodging crab pots and unseen boats in water that was rather choppy for the absence of wind. At one point on AIS we saw the Key West Express heading directly at us going 32 kts on its trip from Ft Myers to Key West. At about 1 mile away they began to turn behind us and we never saw them. Several other boats passed in the fog. So nice to have electronics.


As the fog lifted we could see more of the shore with the homes and resorts on these beautiful islands.


Then just after noon time we came up to Boca Grande pass into Charlotte Harbor. At this point the wind began to come up but still behind us as we rode the incoming tide and quickly added over a knot of speed through the pass. With the wind building and we could now comfortably estimate our arrival time we pulled out our sails to see how much of the remaining 18 miles we could sail. We look forward to a time when we can just rely on our sails and go at whatever speed and wherever we get to will be our destination. A schedule is an enemy of sailing and even if it is to make it to a destination before dark or before the crew goes home it often mandates reversion to means of other power.



We quickly got up to over 8 kts sailing in the wind that had built up to the middle teens traveling smoothly with the current in a waveless sea. Sailing is so magical when the ride is smooth. One thing I always enjoy after we have the sails trimmed well and with the boat on auto is to go to the bow and watch the slicing of the water under the keel with the perfect symmetry of the bow waves, the evenly trimmed sails and of course the feeling of knowing the boat is moving well without any mechanical device largely through our own skills. A well trimmed, well engineered sailboat slicing through the water is as fine an instrument as any artisan ever produced. Sailing under a bright sun sky through deep azure water resolves any doubt about why we came this way. It provides a deep satisfaction and experience that only comes from doing it. People see pictures, read stories or hear songs about it but there is no substitute for being there doing it.

On our passage from Napleswe left the fog and for a short period experienced the joy we always aspire to. When we turned up the Bay and the wind fell behind us we again had to resort to power to get us to the Marina.We found our way in through narrow channels and got safely tied to the dock at the Punta Gorda Isles Yacht Club where we will spend the next week or so and ready ourselves for the trip to the Bahamas.

After arriving we were greeted by our friends Tom McGarry and Cathy Bleakly and my college classmate Jack Andreas and his wife Dora with whom we willshare some good times while here. Much more to follow about those.



Sunday, February 22, 2015

Marathon in the Rear View Mirror

                                             Leaving our slip in Harbor Cay Club

Hard to believe but our four weeks in Marathon are up and it's time to leave the wonderful Harbor Cay Club. It was a fabulous time making new friends and catching up with old, dear friends. Biking all around Marathon, Boot Key, Sombrero Beach and other local spots. Hanging around in Key West. And not doing many of the boat chores we intended to do while there. It was definitely a hard spot to leave. I can see why so many that visit the area end up staying. But the lure of the sea keeps calling us so with a good weather window we untied the dock lines about 3pm yesterday with hopes of a pleasant overnight sail to Naples. Although the winds weren't as strong as forecasted we were able to sail all but a couple of hours of the 90 mile plus passage. I am always astounded at the beauty of the sky and sea, day and night. We are so fortunate to be able to witness the amazing rising and setting of the sun and the moon at sea. The little sliver of a crescent moon emitted a surprisingly bright reflection on the water last night. The sky was brilliantly lit with the twinkling of stars. We glided smoothly through the light chop under sail like a phantom on the water. Sailing offshore of Marco Island beside several miles of lit skyline of mid-rise buildings felt hauntingly surreal as we slipped by in the dark. Sunrise found us coming up on Gordon Pass, the channel in to the city of Naples. After navigating the pass and the channel to Naples City Dock, Captain Maris did a superb job on backing Amekaya into a too small slip in between 2 large vessels. Several people came up and commended him for the excellent docking job. Then while Maris cleaned the salt of the deck I made a Sunday blueberry pancake breakfast accompanied by Mimosas to celebrate our arrival in Naples. We took out the bikes and did some sightseeing this afternoon but the rest of our stay in Naples will be picking up supplies and provisions for our upcoming passage and stay in the Bahamas before we move on to Punta Gorda for about a week to catch up with some friends. 
So time to go work on that shopping list!

The Gods must have been satisfied with our offering

Tonight I'm sitting in our cockpit which is in Naples, FL tonight. We made it here with no surprises and things we fixed appear to have stayed fixed. So maybe we should have done the name changing earlier.


For the first time in many weeks the wind isn't blowing like stink and the boat isn't rocking like a hobby horse trying to break free of its springs. We are in a slip at Naples City Dock on Crayton Cove, Naples, FL. We got into this slip this morning after an all-night sail up from Marathon. Don't know what the slip dimensions are but it looks like it is about a foot wider than the boat and a foot shorter. Using the bow thruster really helps get into tight places. When backing I actually use it to steer because it can point the stern where I want it to go easier than using a rudder that is confused with water flow and prop walk. Lots of folks don't understand laws of motion. If you want the bow or stern to go one way, sometimes its easier to just move the opposite end the other way.

After a month in Marathon we sadly had to leave. We enjoyed everything about our stay and could easily spend more time there. But, we are on a mission. There are too many places to go and too little time to see them. We really wanted to visit Naples for lots of reasons. This is a really cool town and there are stores here we want to shop before we go to the Bahamas like Whole Foods and Trader Joe's as well as Target, Bed Bath etc. Naples has it all and good restaurants so it is easy to spend time here. Then we are going on to Charlotte Harbor for about a week to visit Jack and Dora Andreas, a classmate from PMC and 2 friends from HHSA Tom McGarry and Cathy Bleakley. Hopefully we can also see Jim Morris in his home turf while we are there.


The sunset views from Harbour Cay Club were spectacular. Almost like what you could see in the tropics. Some of the folks there actually saw the green flash one night.

But we left the slip at 1500 on Saturday 21 Feb and arrived in Naples Gordon Pass just after 0700 on the 22nd. We frequently do night passages just like they do on big cruise ships. On big cruise ships the passengers sleep at sea and the crew drives the boat. On our ship we do it all.

We left Saturday with great weather. Warm sun and a fair breeze in the right direction. As we left there were showers moving in to the Keys which we managed to stay ahead of.

 
One of the beauties of sailing at sea is that you have the opportunity to see your weather coming and have a chance to prepare. We watched this weather and were convinced it was going behind us as we moved to the North and it did. We didn't have any rain which can really impact a night sail by reducing visibility even farther than it already is in the darkness.

Winds came up nicely behind the beam and later ahead of it as we were able to maintain speed at between 6-7 kts with little chop in winds of 10-15 kts. Our IP 420 slid across the water as if propelled by magic and into the night on autopilot the boat just sailed itself as the sun sank into the sea.



After the sun set we could see the waxing moon that was already passed its zenith but was really bright even though only about 10% of it was visible. Because the moon was not as bright the stars and planets were greatly evident and it made for a beautiful sail.

As the sky got dark into night we could see the lights of the Miami area in the clouds even though it was over a hundred miles away and we could see the lit sky of Marco Island just some 60 miles way. It was reminiscent of being offshore and seeing the glow of cities onshore that were a hundred miles away. It's too bad that the beauty of the sky is crowded out by the light pollution.

But as we do we switched watches and were able to sail most of the night although at one point the wind got down into low single digits and at sometime in the future we may be content to travel at whatever speed but we did have a slip waiting so we motored until the wind came back up. When I came back on watch at 0100 I noticed bigger chop and checked out the wind and we went back to sail right up to the channel at Naples. The sail was the kind where you want to just keep going but we arrived at our destination.

A very beautiful scene in nautical twilight.


Naples straight ahead.


The sun sandwiched between the earth and a cloud at sunrise as we approached Gordon Pass, the entrance to Naples Bay.

So after we arrived and got settled we had out usual Sunday Morning breakfast of pancakes from scratch but today we used a bottle of champagne leftover from our name changing and some OJ left over from the last batch of painkillers and made mimosas to toast our arrival. After that we took naps to make up for some of the sleep lost overnight. We missed a beautiful day but we had a beautiful night at sea and there will be many more beautiful days. Hopefully for us all the weather will be turning better. But, there are no better days than a day on the water.

So we toasted the Gods and hopefully they are satisfied and will smile on us favorably on our voyage as we sail their waters and ride their winds.
    

Sunday, February 15, 2015

Another week has flown by

It's hard to believe that another week has come and gone and we are down to our last week here in Marathon. Sometime next weekend or early next week we plan to head up the coast back to the mainland and visit Naples and Charlotte Harbor.

Our Chicago friends, Sunny and Ralph Hernandez headed back to the frigid north a day or so ago but we've connected with some friends we met while back in Herrington who just got here. Dave and Lisa Cooper in their Halberg Rassy "Virginia Dare" arrived in Marathon just a few days ago and we hosted them for happy hour on our boat and then shared dinner. It was great catching up and hearing about their trip down the ICW. They actually left after we did and stayed at some of the same places we did. Catching up is fun.

Saturday night the Club had a Valentine's Day dinner that was sort of pot luck but managed and it turned out great! I know we thought that we ate too much but I don't really think that happened. Today I ran to and out the old 7 mile bridge and then we biked around Boot Key Harbor and stopped at the Tropical Dockside Cafe for refreshments before returning home for happy hour with the Club. The Dockside is a real boater's bar. One comment on Active Captain said about the place, if drunken sailors offend you go someplace else. But we enjoyed it and had fun with other patrons.

Tomorrow begins a work week to finish boat chores in preparation for our continuing journey. There are additional repairs to make. Today I pumped some oil from the engine because I overfilled it when I changed it a couple weeks ago. Sometimes overfilling is not evident until the engine sits a while and the oil all drains down into the sump. Overfilling oil in a diesel is a risk because it could cause the engine to take off and run from the oil. We also need to begin to stock up with supplies for our trip to the Bahamas. Tonight I bought our customs permit so we can reenter the US. The permit allows us to bring our boat back into the US by showing all documents and taxes have been paid.

We're also beginning to make our longer range plans for the Fall and next winter. While we expect to be headed way south we're not sure where we will be for Thanksgiving. So we may or may not travel back because we really need to buy tickets now but don't know where we'll be. One of the challenges of cruising is not to make long range commitments because they may become hard or impossible to keep.  For folks wanting to come visit we can either resort to last minute plans or try to make a long distance rendezvous just as we did for our trip here.

We've now been cruising less than 3 months but it seems like we've been doing this for a long time and I mean that in a good way. We are still working through the transition from the land-based routines and the ship-board routines. We will need to improve on them as we head to the Bahamas where we will be on anchor or moorings and less in slips. But we are looking forward to getting over there and enjoying the things the Bahamas have to offer. More travel details to confirm.

So while this past week was a big one with events - especially our big anniversary - next week will be even bigger as we work on our plans for moving forward.

Hopefully we'll have some more pictures we can post to help anyone digging out from under snow that we've heard has pummeled the Northeast again. In a few more weeks spring will be here and things should warm up all around.Well at least let's hope.


Thursday, February 12, 2015

Our 20 yr Anniversary and planning our next move

So far this week we enjoyed another day at the beach, did sightseeing around the Keys but Tuesday we celebrated our 20th wedding anniversary. It is really hard to believe that Linda and I have been married 20 years and for the past 10 we've been boat owners. Given where we were 20 years ago it's amazing how far we've come.

Sunday we enjoyed the nice weather and again biked to Sombrero Beach which is the local gathering place for beach folks. Today we spent biking to do errands but after lunch we biked down to Pigeon Key.

Pigeon Key is about 2 miles down the old 7 mile bridge. The new 7 mile bridge bypasses it and you can see it in the background. Don't know if there was a station at Pigeon Key during the railroad days but here is an old wooden ramp from the Key up to the road that is currently closed for repairs. Now the only way to get there is by water taxi from the end of Marathon. But then I'm always looking for a faster way to get places.


The new bridge was built in the late 70's to replace the old highway built on the foundation of the Flagler built Florida East Coast Railroad the featured a New York to Havana train service. The train ran from Penn Station in NYC to Key West with the station right next to the dock and the trip was completed by steamship from Key West to Havana.

The old bridge is now cut in places after having been shot up in the movie True Lies and we saw the end of the road. The guard rails on the old bridge are railroad rails presumably from the original railroad. The railroad bridge was destroyed in a hurricane.


Tuesday we enjoyed a very nice dinner at the Barracuda Grill in Marathon to celebrate our 20th anniversary. We shared the event with Sunny and Ralph Hernandez who are enjoying a brief respite from the northern Illinois winter with a 2 week vacation here. We've hung out together for most of the past 2 weeks. We'll miss them when they leave Friday.

But the major event we started this week (along with continuing to do boat chores) is planning for our trip in a little over a week up the southwest coast of Florida to Naples and Charlotte Harbor. I've been studying the charts and Active Captain notes to determine where we want to go. Naples will be a 2-3 day port call with a chance to reprovision at Whole Foods and Trader Joes. In Charlotte Harbor I have a college classmate and we have 2 friends from HHSA who are there for the winter. So we will have a great time when we get there. Maybe we'll even get to see Jim Morris at the Navagator.

We have generally concluded that we will do an overnight passage to Naples. It is about 95 nm from here to there which is about 13-14 hrs. So if we leave about 3 in the afternoon we should get there around dawn the next day. That way we can go through the channels in daylight. Still need to check the tide data but in either location tide isn't too critical as it is in some locations. As we get closer we can also focus in more on the weather to pick a departure date because it is still too early to identify that. When we leave Charlotte Harbor we plan to go straight to the Bahamas so I will engage a weather router and probably use the Clarks since we will be in the Gulfstream as we go east along the Keys until we get to the Bahama Bank.

To learn about new destinations I engage numerous sources to gain familiarity to avoid showing up and not knowing anything. The first thing I do is go to Google Earth and take a look at everything. Usually the satellite view will provide a good overview of the layout and where things may be. Also at a high enough resolution you can see marks and physical details of marinas. Next I look at maps and google information to see where things like West Marine or grocery stores are that may not be apparent in the satellite pictures. I then look at Active Captain to see what general information I can get as well as highly rated marinas or anchorages and then see where they are in relation to destinations we may need to visit.

While I'm doing this we will be looking at guide books and asking on email lists for any information or comments from others that may have been there.

In the case of Charlotte Harbor I got a lot of information from my friends there. In fact we may be able to stay at a yacht club through their auspices.

Once we have fairly well established our destination and gotten a good overview of the environment I use the charts to plan a route and then develop a route plan with waypoints and relevant climate data. From that point it becomes a simple issue of selecting the best weather window for departure. Because of the sailing characteristics of our boat we can be more flexible in selecting weather conditions than someone with a less comfortable vessel. While we don't want to be stupid or sail out ahead of a storm, big wind and seas in the right direction will make for a good trip while others might pass waiting for a calmer time. What we need to avoid is big wind and seas on the nose or no wind as we've already had a lot of. The big paradox in waiting for weather is the right one may not come so as I've written before, it comes down to waiting for Mr Right or looking for Mr Right now. So there is a fine line between taking some risk and being stupid. We're willing to take risk but try to avoid being stupid.

So the boat chores and planning continue.



Saturday, February 7, 2015

The name is officially committed to the deep

Today turned out to be a beautiful day. Very breezy but that was good for our wind generation although very sunny and warm. Starting out I got up and went for a run in spite of the wind and then came back and did boat chores.

This evening after months of avoiding the deed we did the name changing ceremony to purge the previous name from the records of the deep and then pray that the gods of wind and seas will protect us in our voyages. Not being superstitious it all seems like just fun escapades but given the issues we have had maybe there is something to it.



So with about a dozen witnesses watching we asked that the name of Windreams of Newton, IA be purged from the memory of the deep by casting pieces of biodegradable toilet tissue with the name on it into the water for destruction for all times. Next, we asked for the sea gods and wind gods to grant us protection and safe passage and recognize the name  of Amekaya as we sail forth upon the waters of the world.



We toasted and offered the Gods champagne so that they would be appeased and take us into their bosom for our future sailing endeavors.

Let's hope this is the end of our surprises and its all fair winds and following seas from here.

Huzzahh!!!  Huzzahh!!!  Huzzahh!!!


Thursday, February 5, 2015

It isn't all sunshine and blue skies...

It's raining today for the first time since Daytona Beach. Kind of nice hearing the rhythm of the rain on the deck with the gentle rocking in the breeze. Kind of limits outside activity so time to catch up on the blog. We've had night time showers from time to time but this is the first rain day in a few weeks.

After our exciting day at Mile 0 we spent most of the weekend working around the boat doing some routine chores. Monday I was able to get 2 big mechanical issues hopefully resolved for good. Keep knocking projects off the list but some of my more tedious things are yet to come. They aren't urgent so no hurry on them.

Tuesday after doing all the hard work Monday we took a bike ride to Sombrero Beach and it was actually warm enough to get in the water although the water was on the chilly side.


Despite their location, the Keys don't have beaches like Daytona. For the most part they're small, natural kept and have grass or rock in the water. The water however is very clear. Here is our cruise director enjoying the weather with the iconic beach palm tree behind her.


Yesterday we had a treat when one of our dock neighbors called us there was a manatee swimming by our boats. Seems there is a pod of them hanging out around here from time to time. We caught him or her nibbling on some grass along the dock.





What a beautiful creature. I've seen them in many settings before but this one in the wild so up close and active was very exciting. Hopefully they'll come back before we leave. Fun to watch them swimming around and eating.

This past weekend some friends from Chicago came down to enjoy a respite from the brutal weather up north in their Marathon timeshare. We've been hanging out with them pretty much since they got here and yesterday we did some sight seeing around the Keys. Here is a picture of us by a point on Fat Deer Key snapped by someone biking by who stopped to chat.


So today is a quiet inside day waiting for the rain to pass.