Back to the Bay Part Deux

Something I was looking forward to doing at Cape May was spend time at the Beach. But, with the finger dressing that was out. Then of course there was the continuing discussion about the weather. We did get to spend time with our friends Tom and Sue Jones who have a summer home in Wildwood.

The storm front moving in.

Linda picking guitar with Tom and Sue Jones.

The first day we arrived in Cape May was spent doing boat chores and then celebrating our arrival at the Schooner Bar at the Lobster House. Saturday we worked more boat chores and then met our friends Tom and Sue Jones for drinks and dinner at the Lobster House. Sunday night we met the Jones' again and dinner at their place. Monday we walked about the town and prepared for an early departure Tuesday.

Throughout the weekend we were again reviewing weather because we initially planned for a Sunday departure. Forecast evolved and we saw a line of serious storms that would hit us while transiting the C&D canal with forecasts for hail so a Sunday departure was out. Monday the forecast called for high winds that would be right on the nose going up the Delaware Bay but Tuesday looked fairly benign so we focused on a Tuesday departure.

Looking at the beach while walking about.

Stopped in for refreshment at the Rusty Nail.

Forecast was for relatively light winds that would be on our nose but we might be able to get some lift. The key factor wold be the current. We figured if we left at 0600 we could catch the outgoing tide in the Cape May Channel and round CM Point at slack tide. We dd not want to go out the channel on an incoming tide because of the turbulence which is the same reason slack tide at the Point would be good. But once round the Point we would catch the incoming tide that should last most of the way up the Delaware and then catch the outgoing tide through the C&D and on down the Chesapeake.

Passing Town Point, the Chesapeake end of the C&D Canal.

As it turned out we made it up the Delaware sooner than expected and made it to the Canal before the current turned but slowly the current turned and we soon gained the advantage right down to our anchorage at Worton Creek along the Chesapeake Bay. In the northern part of the Chesapeake currents run stronger than further down the Bay so having the current made our last 20 miles go much faster. From our slip n Utsch's Marina we traveled about 100 miles in about 12 hours having left about 0600 and dropped the anchor just after 1800. But we were now back in the Bay more than a week after we left the Vineyard on our way back.

Our anchorage at Worton Creek.

We spent a very restful and quiet night anchored by Worton Creek and then on to Rock Hall from our new Chesapeake adventures as we prepare to head South.

Sunset from our anchorage.

Journey back to the Bay Part 1

After a short but very fun stay in Nantucket we needed to begin our way back south to get ready for our eventual return to southern latitudes. The decision was complicated by the weather forecasts. When we came to New England we were facing East and North winds. Now that we are looking for a passage southwest the winds are out of that direction for at least the next week. So we tried to develop a travel plan that makes sense in the conditions forecasted or otherwise known as the best bad option.

Our original plan was to go straight from Nantucket to Cape May. Challenges to this were trying to get through the shoals between Nantucket and the Vineyard knowing they shift and the charts aren't accurate and then we would need about a 48 hr window and we wouldn't be able to leave until Monday but storms late Tuesday foreclosed on the needed time. We thought about shortening the distance by going to Block and we could do that Monday and then wait until later in the week for a window that was not apparent to head to Cape May or perhaps a closer destination like Atlantic Highlands or go through Long Island Sound. So we decided we could sail to the Vineyard Sunday using the strong SW winds and then leave Monday for a closer destination at Atlantic Highlands and wait out the weather and then do the short passage to Cape May. We probably wouldn't be able to sail but better than waiting or getting beat up.

Looking over the Edgartown Mooring  Field

So we made a mooring reservation for Edgartown on the Vineyard and started out after the fog lifted. Had lots of theories of how to get up the 2 anchors and should have used my sense to swim down and free the second anchor before bringing it up. But I thought we could get it up without doing that but was mistaken. Normally when an anchor is set it can be coaxed loose by working the boat around but we had wind, current and another anchor that restricted the ability to do that. So we continued backing down past the second anchor and using the power of the boat finally broke it loose and then hauled it up by hand as second anchor is not on a windlass. We then worked our way back up to retrieved the front anchor. What normally takes just a few minutes took almost a half-hour but we eventually got everything recovered and were on our way. The good news from all this is the anchors were well set and not likely to have let go on us. But every anchorage is a new day.

Had a great upwind sail to the channel mark for turning in to Martha's Vineyard. Going in the Edgartown channel put the wind right on the nose so we motored our way in to our mooring. After getting cleaned up we met our friend Kris Faught and this time with his family for lunch in Edgartown and then back out to the boat for a swim. Next morning we left Edgartown under a beautiful sunny sky but little wind.

Views of Edgartown, Martha's Vineyard.

Later after we rounded the northern tip of the Vineyard we were able to sail for a few hours but the wind died and we went to motor for the rest of the trip to Atlantic Highlands. Seas had a light swell to them but little or no wind or chop for the entire trip. At night the nearly full moon provided a bright light on the water even as haze and fog restricted our visibility.

Sailing By the Vineyard.

We made it into Atlantic Highlands early in the morning and had to wait for the Atlantic Highlands Yacht Club to open to get a mooring assignment. Plan was to wait for the afternoon storms to pass and then leave late on Wednesday for Cape May riding some strong NW winds that would die overnight but get us to Cape May by morning.

View of the municipal harbor at Atlantic Highlands.

Storms didn't hit us but we watched one cross to the north into NYC. We also had periods of rain overnight. The next day, Wednesday, we started very casually and leisurely, took trash to shore and prepared to leave. But leaving Wednesday wasn't to be.

Atlantic Highlands has very nice moorings with 2 independent pennants of 3/4" line that are connected to a pole float making them easy to retrieve and deploy. After we had secured the mooring I further cleated off the line to ensure it wouldn't flip off and to shorten the lead so were not close to the boat behind us. When we were leaving the wind was blowing 18 kts so we needed to motor up to relieve the tension on the cleats. I took off the port lead and I had thrown it in the water and was attempting to clip it on to the line loop on the float when I realized we were actually motoring away from the mooring but my hand was wrapped around the lines to undo them. My hand got pinched by the line to the pennant and against the cleat causing a deep gash and severing the tendon. I was able to throw off the other pennant and while free go below wash the hand and assess the damage. The cut was bleeding profusely so quickly grabbed a paper towel and put pressure on it. After showing it to Linda we decided it needed medical attention that probably shouldn't wait to Cape May. We resecured our mooring and went ashore after applying a hasty dressing.

We took a cab ride to the local hospital after an Urgent Care facility said they couldn't set the finger. After an x-ray and treatment they sutured the incision and then put the finger in a splint for it to mend. Since I can't get the dressing wet until the sutures are removed in 2 weeks and losing my middle finger on my right hand doing chores on and around the boat will be more challenging. So we'll figure the workarounds to get it done.

We ended our visit to North Jersey after getting a prescription filled with dinner and a couple Dos XX's at the 10th Avenue Burrito Bar on Main St in Red Bank to take the edge off.

View of NYC as we rounded Sandy Hook.

Sunset over NJ heading south.

Next day in the early afternoon we left with no wind and had a beautiful night passage to Cape May. No rain or storms although in the early hours around Atlantic City there was a storm that passed behind us and we got into our slip at Cape May about 8 AM. We slowed down so we didn't get in too soon and and floated about for a little while before going in.

Now to begin our Cape May adventure.

Back at the Lobster House for dinner and happy hour.

Nearly full moon over Utsch's Marina,Cape May.

A sailboat sailed down to Nantucket, with a crew so stout they could tough it, they pulled out the sail and buried the rail now that's the way to sail to Nantucket.

There are many funny limericks about about a man from Nantucket. But Nantucket is a really great place to visit for young and old. But, we got there Thursday afternoon with the wind blowing 15-20 steady with gusts to 30. We got the hook down with the wind and current going in the same direction but we knew with the tide change we would have the wind oppose current.

Last year we had the same issue but it really wasn't a problem. When the wind opposed the boat would settle right above the anchor facing the current with the chain laying on the bottom. When the current changed the chain would be straight out. But I bought a barbell and shackle to use as a pendant on the chain in situations like this to keep the chain down from the boat hull to avoid the discomfort we had in Rudder Cut Cay in the Bahamas. So I clipped on the weight and put out lots of scope and hoped for the best.

A very classic ride in Nantucket.

But once the tide turned we spun around as we should have but as the strength of the wind modulated we spun and spun and spun clockwise then counter clockwise and clockwise again continuously. Where we anchored we weren't really close to other boats but with our odd spinning and my concern that we could pop the anchor from the spinning I sat in the cockpit as an anchor watch until the tide turned and we were once again stretched out on the chain in the wind. The next morning we were up before the current turned and hauled our anchor so we could move further away from the other boats and for the first time I put out 2 bow anchors in a so-called Bahamian Mooring pattern. First I dropped our primary anchor in the direction of the wind and current then let out enough chain to get us 2x as far back as we would settle. I dropped my second bow anchor and worked our way back up to the point I wanted to be at tugging on the line for the second anchor to get it set and then cleated off the anchor line on the bow cleat. As usual I swam down on both anchors and found them set well. For the rest of our time we enjoyed a controlled swing without the crazy gyrations of that first night. The final challenge came when it was time to raise the anchors as the second anchor had dug itself in so well it took lots of effort to raise it by hand.

Always up for some free beer and cold WiFi.

During the sail over to Nantucket we ran into fog about 5 miles from the island. In fact the island had been shrouded in fog although as we got into the harbor the fog abated and the sun was out. From the time we got to Nantucket until we left the dew point was so close to the ambient temperature that any cooling brought fog. Each night the boat was dripping from condensation of the fog on the rigging. Since it was cool anyway to run our A/C to dry out the inside of the boat would have made it very chilly.  But our A/C developed an issue in Cape May and we haven't used it (or needed to) since then.

With the foggy conditions we just stayed on the boat Thursday evening celebrating our sail and good fortune to have made it to Nantucket.So Friday we began exploring. Our first stop was for lunch at Something Natural. A great little bakery cafe where they bake their own bread and pastries. For their sandwiches they slice the loaf horizontally and a half sandwich is one piece cut in half and a whole sandwich is 2 pieces of horizontally sliced bread.

Brant Point Light Nantucket.

Brant Point Beach looking out at the anchorage.

Hayden's Saltbox 14.

After lunch we walked around town checking out shops and stopped in the Whaling Museum. Having seen it last year we didn't need to spend lots of time in it but we walked about and listened to one of the programs. Since we are supporters of the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum we have reciprocal privileges at other maritime museums so we registered and enjoyed the display.

Our trip in would not be complete if we didn't stop by Slip 14. Last year we found this little place by the water that was a real sailors bar. We stopped in for a beer and some of their famous wings. We met another liveaboard, a single man who lives there in the summer and goes south in the winter. Had a great discussion with him. Also met 2 gents who sailed up from NY for their vacation on the island.

Slip 14.

One of the nice things about Nantucket is there is a supermarket downtown right near the dinghy docks so we picked up some provisions we needed and headed back to the boat.

Saturday we walked about and visited the Old Gaol (Jail) and had lunch at the Backyard Barbecue where they had an excellent smoked turkey sandwich. Nantucket's beauty is n the preserved charm of the old homes and mansions which date back to the time when Nantucket was the premier whaling port in the world. It has now become a summer getaway for the very affluent so it is quite a haven for people watching and shopping in stores you won't find anywhere else.

Old sea captains homes on Main Street.

The old Gaol (Jail).

The waterfront is lined with 100+ ft yachts Med-moored while their owners or users visit the island.Many of the large yachts are available for charter either when their owners aren't using them or many are exclusively for charter in the realm of $50k-$100k and up per week depending on the size and the amenities.       

As has often been the case schedules are often decided by weather ad the trip to Nantucket was no different. We had a date to be back in the Chesapeake on 27th August some 2 weeks away. But, we had other stops we wanted to make. The forecasts for almost as far out as we could see were for heavy sustained southwest winds and frequent storms so the big question became when do we leave. Sailing back to Cape May from Nantucket would require about 8 hours more than our trip to Block Island. That means we really need to see a 48 hour window for the passage and given the forecasts it didn't look likely anytime soon. The last thing we wanted was to go southwest in heavy southwest winds. Ironically when we went to New England we had heavy east-northeast winds and could have used southwest winds and now we have the exact opposite.

The fog rolls in on Saturday night which featured a benefit concert by the Boston Pops on the beach followed by fireworks. It went off but most of the fireworks were just noise.

So after intense deliberation and some other considerations we decided that Sunday looked good to start the trip back at least as far as Martha's Vineyard. Then Monday the winds would be northerly for a while and then be light so we could probably go to Atlantic Highlands. It looked like a low with heavy storms would come through late Tuesday-Wednesday and give us some west-northwest wind that we could sail to Cape May before the next round of storms came through Thursday.

So with those considerations we made our plans to leave Sunday morning and go over to Martha's Vineyard where we would meet our friend Kris Faught and is family before jumping off to New Jersey Monday.

Newport to Nantucket

We left Newport after a very fun visit. We easily could have stayed longer exploring the shops and marine offerings for liveaboard cruisers like us but we always love the waterfront bars and restaurants. You would think that being on the water we would look for something else, but we always look for the places on the water just like the dirt dwellers.

We left the anchorage about 0730 and motored down the Narragansett Bay with the wind on our nose. Once clear of the shallows at Branton Point we turned and were able to sail. We were headed to Cuttyhunk for the night with the wind at about 80 degrees and we were sailing smartly. We maintained a sailing speed in excess of 7 kts so it was good. We ran through some showers along the way but in our enclosure it was dry.

Fort Adams as we motored past it in the early morning light.

We sailed right up to entering Cuttyhunk outside harbor. Having never been here we were not sure about going to the inner harbor for a mooring so we grabbed one on in the outer harbor. There were plenty available so we picked one and tied up to it.

View from the outer harbor looking in the entrance channel to the inside.

Cuttyhunk was a place I first heard of in Law School almost 40 years ago from a case in one of our casebooks. More recently many New England cruisers have talked about it so we needed to come here. Cuttyhunk is a weekend favorite for locals because it features a protected harbor and some local amenities. The inner harbor has 360 degree protection and significant shelter from most wind directions. It will be calm when the outer harbor has strong winds.

After we got on the mooring the winds howled and rain cascaded and we settled in for an unpleasant stay. But the squalls moved on and we decided to go into town. There wasn't much of a town but we found some dock-based food including the "Raw Bar" who would bring selected food to your boat. The island is dry but we were interested in the bisque and crab spread.

We walked about the town before heading back to the boat without any local fare. Since it was midweek there were many free moorings and we thought that if we were going to stay we would come inside in the morning to ride out the heavy forecasted winds.

Local fishing docks off the inner harbor.

Golf carts are the norm on this island.

View looking across at the Vineyard.

A very smart looking house overlooking the Sound.

The Methodist Church.

The elementary school.

Looking back at Buzzards Bay.

Looking at the Outer Harbor.

The road to the highest point on the island.

But in the morning we reassessed the forecasts and decided that we would head to our next destination Nantucket. So we waited for the currents in Quick Hole to change and left in the late morning for the whaling island. We timed the currents correctly as we had current behind us going up Buzzards Bay with a slight current against us through Quicks Hole and then after a bit of a slog up the Vineyard Sound we picked up the current the rest of the way to Nantucket. It's nice to go through a cut with the current but if it's one that is unfamiliar a little opposing current is good to help improve steerage. As it turns out Quicks Hole is very wide open and deep compared to some like Woods Hole.

Looking at Quicks Hole.

The wind was mostly behind us so we had to motor up Vineyard Sound. Debated about putting up the spinnaker but the wind was light and we went through some showers and I really don't want to get the spinnaker wet because we stow it in a cabin locker. We rounded the top of Martha's Vineyard and the wind came around and we began to sail and what a sail we had. We sailed all the way to the entrance to Nantucket. We were running 8-10 kts the entire way. The weather was beautiful until about 5 miles outside Nantucket where we ran into fog that stayed with us until about a mile before the entrance channel.

Vineyard Haven Light on Martha's Vineyard.

Breezing our way to Nantucket. After I took this picture we hit 10kts. Sailing fast is exciting.

The anchorage in Nantucket from our anchor site.

We dropped the hook near where we anchored last year and after an invigorating sail were ready to enjoy our next adventure in Nantucket. So we thought.

Newport and all that jazz

Time certainly flies when you're having fun or not paying attention to the clock or calendar. But we left Block Island on Friday the 5th of August for the short journey over to Newport where we had a slip reserved in the Navy Marina. In addition to catching up on some boat chores we would be able to visit with some friends we hadn't seen in a while.

 

Castle Hill by the entrance to Narragansett Bay.

Downtown Newport from the water.

 
We couldn't get to the marina before noon so we didn't leave really early. As soon as we dropped the mooring ball it was snatched by one of the other boats standing by waiting for a mooring. There was little wind so we motored across Block Island Sound and stopped at Port Judith for fuel.  Then continuing on up the Narragansett to the Navy Marina and into our slip. One of the nice things about most of the military marinas is that everyone is very helpful. When we went into our slip we had about 8 folks turn out to help grab lines.

Friday was about the only time we had to relax of our time in Newport. We made a last minute decision to get a rental car for the weekend to do provisioning. So we spent most of Saturday running errands. One of the "to do" items was get one of our propane tanks refilled that had run out at Block Island. We have 2 tanks and I try to get the empty refilled as soon as possible so we always have gas in both tanks. The last time I got a tank filled was in Marathon in February.

Us with Stan.

Saturday night we spent with my college roommate Stan Greenwood who drove down from Boston to visit. We visited with him last summer when we were in New England. Sunday morning One of my son's former commanders, Kris Faught visited with us. We met him at my son Jeremy's promotion at Cherry Point back in the Spring. He's very interested in living aboard at some point so over breakfast we discussed the challenges and the opportunities of living aboard and cruising.

Monday our friends Ed and Diane O'Brien drove down from Massachusetts for the day. Their boat is in storage in Florida and the plan to get back to it in the Fall. We did sightseeing, had lunch at the Red Parrot and then sat on the lawn at the Castle Hill Inn and had drinks overlooking the Bay.

Us with our friends Ed & Diane.

View of the lawn at Castle Hill.

View of the Castle Hill Light.

When I originally made our slip reservation I made it for a Tuesday departure. However, in arranging our social bookings we found that we needed to stay over Tuesday. The manager of the Navy Marina told us we couldn't stay because he had other boats coming in. But, there were numerous empty slips but he simply said he had a boat coming in. So we left the marina Tuesday and went to the downtown anchorage and anchored.

View of the NY Yacht Club.

View from our slip in the anchorage.

Tuesday evening we met up with Greg and Sharon from an IP 45 Dream Catcher who we spent time with at Vero Beach and in Marathon. We sort of started with a happy hour at the Moorings, then had appetizers at the Revolving Door and finally entrees at the Lobster Shack.

Sunset of our last night in Newport taken from the Lobster Shack.

So our visit to Newport ended after spending lots of quality time with friends.  It's easy to see why people like Newport. There's always so much going on boaters and dirt dwellers alike. Good thing we missed the Jazz Festival.

Wednesday we had an early departure for our next destination.

Fort Adams as we left.