Going to the San Blas Again

Sunset at Linton Bay, on our way to the San Blas

After months of delays we finally left for the San Blas on 4 February with an interim stop planned for Linton Bay Marina where we left the boat to go to Panama City for provisioning and hopefully we could pick up our permanent resident cards. Well, at least that was the plan. On the way to Linton Bay we had some surprises.

Sunset on our passage East to Linton Bay
 

The first thing that happened was we noticed the refrigerator was not working. At first we weren't sure but as it got warmer we knew for sure. Then about 8 hours into the trip our autopilot stopped working. What wind we had was mostly on the nose so sailing was out of the question. As a resuslt we hand-steered for most of the trip except when we could engage the autopilot for short periods. Our first thought was that this was latent damage from the lightning strike weeks early to a boat in the marina that was near us. However, we believed that wasn't the case when we got to examine it.

One of the close towns to Linton Bay, Juan Gallego. We often walked along the road to there

After leaving Bocas the weather was pretty benign until about 0300 when the winds and seas came up directly in front of us as we passed by the anchorage for the Canal. The squalls and heavy gusts continued for the rest of the trip and in fact for weeks after that. In spite of the heavy winds and seas we were able to get fuel and get into our slip because Isla Linton blocked the wind in the marina from the direction it was blowing.

Finally sailing in the San Blas after a nasty beat to get there
 

We quickly discovered the issues with the fridge and I replaced all the electronics for it with spares I had on board. With the fridge running we went to Panama for a few days to provision and came back to work on the autopilot. We found a dubious connection and fixed it thinking that was the culprit. While in Panama City we were able to get our permanent resident cards.

Rendezvousing at Green Island with our friends on MV Stand Down who conveniently were out of rum.

As I mentioned the heavy weather continued unabated for weeks. Winds were pretty consistently in the 15-25kt range out of the NE (which is the direction for the San Blas) with seas over 8'. We kept seeing opportunities only for them to disappear a day or so before we planned to leave. Finally, after 3 weeks we picked a day that looked good but when we got up in the morning it didn't look as good but we went anyway. We bashed into high seas and 20+kt winds for 8 hours until we could turn into the Gulf of San Blas where we had enough angle to sail and for the last 3 hours had a great sail. But, in spite of the weather we made it to Green Island in the San Blas after about 4 months of trying.

Enjoying dinner and happy hour on MV Stand Down with Rick and Nancy
 

But, the trip was not without incident. The 3 hour sail ended with a serious over wrap in the headsail furler. I'm not sure how it happened since we are usually very careful but it took me almost an hour on the bow in the wind and rain to resolve it and in the process I broke the plastic top of the furler drum making another project for myself. But, we were here and now to enjoy the islands.

One of our typical dinners in the SB. Linda's vegetable ragout with a salad and bottle of red wine.

We got to Green Island, an island we visited last year and our friends on MV Stand Down were there and we were looking forward to many good happy hours with them. They went to Green because several of the other anchorages were very full and even Green had many boats in it but there was suitable room to anchor. Last year when we were in the San Blas most of the anchorages had few if any boats. Now in the post-Covid times the anchorages were full.

View of the Mainland from our cockpit while anchored at Green Island

Except for a few intermittent periods the winds and squalls continued over the next several days. The conditions made it difficult to do much in the water. So after months of delays in trying to get to the San Blas, after we finally got there the weather was crappy. Our friends on Stand Down were heading to Colombia so they wanted to depart from Snug Harbor which is an anchorage about 30nm east of Green. So of course the day we went there, there was no wind. Otherwise it was one of the first really beautiful days we had in weeks.

 Plumeria or Flower Island just to our East was another area where we anchored.

The next day we motored back to Green with no wind and bright skies as many of the other anchorages we considered were full of boats and remarkably Green wasn't. 

The anchorage at Green island

For the next 2 months we moved to about 6 different anchorages with little excitement as the weather typically was high winds, rain squalls or just heavy rain. Most of the places we visited we had friends that we could socialize with during the inclement weather to help pass the down time. We had several days along the way that were nice and we were able to get out and snorkel and dive but those were the exceptions. In fact, there were days our supply boats didn't come when scheduled and a few where we were surprised they came. 

One of the Coco Islands where we spent a little time

Provisioning in the San Blas is kind of hit and miss at best. You hope it is more hit than miss. There are several types of suppliers in the San Blas. There are a few Panamanians that have agreements with the Kuna Yala to sell suppplies in certain areas of the San Blas. Many buy their supplies in Colon or Panama supermarkets and will take orders if you contact them. Many weeks we got most of what we ordered and we lived as if we were in a town somewhere. However, there were also weeks we were down to eating out of the pantry because all the fresh food was gone. 

One of the other Cocos. This is one of our favorite anchorages

To get supplies it was essential to be at one of the islands where they delivered. There were also some boats, mostly Kuna, who came around periodically with fresh produce. One that we worked with told us every Tuesday and Friday. But, I think that happened once. Many Kuna come-by selling crafts, seafood, bread or bunches of bananas. There is one Kuna guy that comes around and is aggressive but he's a hustler. If he promises you something he will get it. Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow but you will get it. He may not be cheap and you have to push back. Many cruisers don't like him, but I do. I like that he will do whatever to deliver on his promise. 

Full moon right atop the Amekaya Star

When we were there the Caribbean-wide closed lobster season started. All of the countries in the Caribbean basin have agreed to close lobster season from 1 March to 30 June as that is the reproductive season for them. Most places it also applies to crabs, conch and octopus. During the closed season Kuna came by offering lobster, crabs, conch and octopus. Once the closed season arrived we didn't buy anything from them but the charter boats would buy all they had. Hopefully, the Kuna aren't ruining their future by uncontrolled fishing.

Another stay at Green Island

We bought more Molas and Kuna crafts this year for gifts as some of their work is just spectacular. Much of it is museum quality. 

Wasaladup Island. A favorite for beach parties.

We had hoped to spend more time in the San Blas but the weather was so bad and the forecasts for the foreseeable future was more of the same and severe storms were already beginning to pop up so we decided to leave a little earlier than anticipated. We also seemed to be having issues with our batteries holding a charge so we thought it best to get back to Linton Bay and address that.

A nice day sail on the job only.

So our second trip to the San Blas came to an end sooner than expected but we got to spend 2 months there. Hopefully next year will be better before we head off to Colombia. 

Cruising past the Cocos on our way out.

Upon arrival back at Linton Bay Marina we checked our batteries and found at least one was bad and that we would have to replace them. Fortunately, Kenisia at the marina was really helpful in getting quotes for replacement batteries and getting them delivered. Since more than 2 months had passed since we got our permanent resident cards we wanted to go into Panama to get our Cedulas. Latin American countries issue a national ID known as a Cedula to residents that is used for many purposes. Here in Panama it allows us to claim our Jubilado status for discounts and access to resident only activities. 

Heading out of the San Blas

 Our final anchor spot by the island of Chichime

 

 

 

 

 

 The morning we chose to head to Panama bus and taxi drivers went on strike which was the beginning of nationwide strikes that went on for weeks. The first day we sat in the taxi all day waiting for a break that never came. We finally returned to the marina and installed our batteries while planning to go in over the next weekend. It appeared there would be no strikes on Sunday so we planned to go in.

Back in Linton Bay taking care of business
 

This time we got in and out with no effort so with our new batteries installed we left to head back to Bocas on 26 May. 

Back in Bocas

Enjoying Ecuador

      View from our hotel of Pichincha Volcano that looms of Quito. That peak is over 15,000 ft of elevation and the volcano last erupted in 1999 and is still active.

After our time in the Galapagos we flew back to Quito for about 12 days that we had planned to spend there. During our planned time in Quito we expected to take some side trips into the Amazon and possibly the sea coast. Quito represents one of the largest, least altered and best preserved colonial era centers in the Western Hemisphere and was selected to be the 2nd designated World Heritage Site.

 

 Another view of Pichincha with the higher peak partially exposed.

After our short flight back we were reminded of the extreme elevation as soon as we exited the plane. The air was much cooler and thinner. We were panting as we hiked from the plane to get our bags. After retrieving our bags we took a cab to our hotel that was located in the central business district. Our hotel was the Sheraton Grand Quito which we found to be a first class hotel. The business district had lots of stores and even a large mall across the street from the hotel. Although it is a Spanish-speaking country many of the signs on the stores were in English advertising American brands.

Palacio Carondelet, the Seat of Government in Ecuador and home of the President. It was built in 1799.

When we got to the hotel, Linda was not feeling well and we had planned to not do much the first weekend as we acclimated to the higher elevation and work out an itinerary. We were on the top floor which was high off the street but looking around at the mountains we felt very small. We did venture out of and around the hotel to explore but we ate in the hotel the first day since we had no idea where to go. But, we found the food in the Hotel to be absolutely excellent. As we were on the Club Floor we had access to Breakfast and Dinner in the Lounge and drinks and snacks all the time which made life comfortable.

 Street views near our hotel. Quito looked like a very modern city.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Over the course of the weekend Linda got progressively worse. On Sunday the hotel provided a tank of oxygen hoping that it was just the altitude and the oxygen provided some respite but didn't provide permanent relief. As a result, we asked the hotel for medical recommendations and they directed us to one of the major hospitals in Quito. We took a cab over and after a brief triage they admitted her.

The first edifice built in Quito still standing is the Basilica de San Fraancisco built between 1535 and 1650.

For the next 3 days our trip was confined to a hospital room, doctors visits and my running to the hotel. But, they correctly quickly diagnosed Linda's issues and she was fully recovered the second day when we left. The hospital was very modern, well staffed and accommodating. Linda's room had a couch that the staff made up for me to sleep on. I ate in the hospital cafeteria while Linda had catered meals. Ecuador has private and public health insurance but since we didn't have insurance there they took a deposit by credit card. When we left the bill was ready and it was just a little higher than the original charge. In the end, while the issue disrupted our plans everything with it went well and the cost was far less than a comparable event in the States. Also, it gave us the opportunity to see a different side of the City.

Buildings in the "Old City" near the Presidential Palace. 

The day after Linda was discharged we took it easy as we tried to work back to getting engaged in our visit. So now 5 days of our 12 days were shot and we had to develop some ideas for what we wanted to see.

Iglesia de El Segrario, Construction began in the late 17th Century

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After getting some ideas from the hotel, we hired a cab from the hotel that took us around the City. Quito and Ecuador generally are very modern compared to other places we've been. There are many mid-rise buildings but few really high-rise buildings in Quito because of the threats of earthquake and volcanic eruption. The streets and highways we traveled were all paved and clean with good traffic management. We were, however, coached by many people to be careful going out at night in the City. While it was not visible during the day thefts are a major concern.

 

 The beautiful valley in the collapsed caldera of Volcan Pululahau.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ecuador is one of the smaller countries of South America. Its name means "Equator" because it straddles the equator and Quito was located around where ancient civilizations knew they were in a special place on the earth. Ecuador is bordered on the north by Colombia and on the east and south by Peru. It has 4 distinct regions. Beginning in the east is the headlands of the Amazon, then there is the Andean mountain region, then there is the coastal region and finally the Galapagos with each representing its own climate and ecosystem. 

 

 

                                        Exactly on the equator

The Spanish first came to the area of Ecuador in 1532 which at that time was part of the Inca Kingdom. In 1534 they established the City of Santiago de Quito and commenced building a large monastery and cathedral and declared it San Francisco de Quito and the city was built out from there with the cathedral being the city center. Quito became a regional capital as part of the Viceroyalty of Peru that was later merged into the Spanish colony of New Granada which encompassed most of Spanish South America up to the area that is now Panama. 

 The immense and overpowering statue of the "Virgin of the City" overlooks Quito.

Before going to visit the equator, our driver took us to the Mirador de Volcan Pululahau. Pululahau is a now dormant volcano that last erupted in the 5th century. The caldera collapsed and it is now an area of beautiful farms.

 

This is the view of Quito watched over each day by the Angel.

Our next stop which was our primary objective was to visit the equator. There are actually 2 equator parks. Ancients and the Spanish identified one point that they called La Mitad del Mundo or "Middle of the earth." But, after the advent of GPS it was determined that the true equator was about 800 feet further north. So, naturally it needed its own recognition.

 

Looking down on our rooftop restaurant and the "Old City" with the Angel in the distance.

Our first stop was at the Intanan Solar Museum located on what is according to GPS the true equator. At the true center gps instruments show N 000.000.00 latitude. The Museum features many displays about the indigenous life in the area and illustrations about the forces at work on the equator that were very telling.

 

 

 

 

Oswaldo Guayasmin a world renowned Ecuadorian painter lived much of his life in Quito and his home is now open as a museum along with an additional building that houses much of his work that is not held by museums.

 

 

 

 

 

 

After playing the equator games we stopped at the original park for La Mitad Del Mundo (Middle of the World) briefly before continuing on to the "Old City." For hundreds of years the Park at La Mitad del Mundo was deemed to be the point where the equator crossed the area. Once GPS came along, they realized it was actually about 800 ft north of the park even though they had erected monuments to the point. Considering the tools they were working with when they thought they were at the equator to be  only 800' off was pretty good. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 The major waterfall of the Rio Verde of about 300' just downstream from Los Banos. This is among the headwaters of the Amazon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Following my discussion I have attached photos that will show more of the incredible sights in the City. Many of the original buildings and cathedrals of Spanish Colonial Architecture are still present and most are still in use of some kind. On another day we visited the City Museum that was in the building built in 1565 and served as the City Hospital until 1974. Probably the oldest continuously operating hospital in the world. 

 

 

Of all the churches on the La Calle de las Siete Cruces (Street of the Seven Crosses) is this one, Church of the Companion of Jesus. The door above and the interior are all lined with gold. Picture taking was not allowed inside.

Because our time was limited due to our late start the only trip outside the City that we could arrange was a day trip to the Town of Los Banos de Agua Santa (Baths of Holy Water). Los Banos is a town that is southeast of Quito about 200 km in lower elevations and is on several rivers that are headwaters of the Amazon. It is a popular tourist area because of its hot springs, waterfalls and large national parks in the area. We spent the day and enjoyed the scenery all the way there. 

     Snow at the Equator. Volcan Cotopaxi on our trip to Los Banos. The summit is 19,347'.

Along the way to and from Banos we passed several volcanoes that were snow-capped. It was amazing to see snow within a degree of the equator. The altitudes in Ecuador are something to behold. The altitude of Quito is almost twice that of Denver. Several of the peaks around Quito reach to about 20,000 ft which is as high as Mt. McKinley in Alaska that is the highest point in North America. Pikes Peak is only about 14,000 ft. The high peaks are active volcanoes that all have eruptions in modern times. They do not have active lava flows but are monitored for seismic activity with predictions of future eruptions. 

     One of the 2 interior courtyards of the Original City Hospital San Juan de Dios built in 1565 and in       service until 1974.

The day after our trip to Los Banos we headed back to the "Old Town" to visit the City Museum that was in the old hospital. The Museum featured displays of the inhabitants that populated the area around Quito from the earliest days right up to modern times. There was also displays from when the building was used as a hospital. The old hospital served its purposes and when it closed Ecuador developed a very modern medical system.

The external core of the Basilica de Voto National built about 1900 inspired by many European churches.

In one of our final days we visited the Botanical Gardens that was in the park just a block away from our hotel. The Gardens were very interesting and I've posted several pictures to go with the narrative.  

Scenes from the Botanical Garden in

Carolina Park near our hotel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our last days were decompressing and getting ready to return to Panama. To and from Panama we flew on Copa Airlines, Panama's international carrier. When we checked in at the airport the agents asked us for our final destination and when we told them Panama they were surprised until we showed them our Panamanian Cedulas. 

Siberian Tiger

Scenes from the Zoo in Los Banos

Jaguar
 

 

 

 

 

 Toucan

 

Since we missed so much we have many reasons to return to Ecuador for further visits and also to go into neighboring Peru.

 

Volcan Ilinisa. Ecuador is a country of many vistas.

We spent 2 nights in Panama City shopping and enjoying the City before we flew back to Bocas. In all we were gone almost a month but it was hardly enough time to experience Ecuador.

Following are some additional pictures from our trip with some discussion.

The Virgin of the City

 

 From Ecuador to the Immaculate mother of God. Queen Augusta, kind mother and sovereign, protector of the Republic. Legislative Decree of 1892. On the base of the Angel.

 

 

 One of the views from the Angel

 

 

                Views around the Angel.

            Views around the Old City

 

Plaza in front of Cathedral San Francisco

                                                                        Cathedral San Francisco

 

Street view

                                                                Old National Bank of Ecuador

 

Metropolitan Cultural Center

 

Plaza in front of the Presidential Palace. 

 

Plaque on the side of the Presidential Palace commemorating that on the 6th of August 1875 President Moreno was assassinated at that spot. 

 

A Palace Guard

 

More views of the Plaza

 

 

            A nice rooftop restaurant with much more than the food, Vista Hermosa (Beautiful View)

 

The restaurant had an old-style elevator that required and operator to go up to the restaurant.

 

                The restaurant had loads of nostalgic artifacts inside.  

 

                Views from the Rooftop

 

                Views at Street level around the Restaurant

            Mitad del Mundo

The original park celebrating the Equator or "Middle of the World" with the monument below.

 

Views around the Park

The new location of the Equator as established by GPS

At the equator we were in two different hemispheres and two different seasons.

Ancient time and calendar tools used by indigenous civilizations. At the equator the above accurately displayed the time and the below displayed the season. 

Other displays in the Museum

Replica of an ancient Sun Temple discovered here. Explained on the placard below.

 

 

 Visit to the collapsed caldera of the Volcano Pululahua

 

 

 

Visit to the home and museum of Oswaldo Guayasamin 

 

 

 

 

Photos from the day we traveled to Los Banos (The Baths)

 

 

Because of traffic we got off the main road and drove through this little village

 

On the way we passed this local family heading home from the Fiesta Day at Mareeachi 

 

 

Entrance to the town, Banos nos Saluda (Baths we welcome you)

                Photos from the Zoo at Los Banos

                     Views from a hill overlooking the town including a panoramic swing.

       

 

A hydroelectric station outside of town

            The Falls of the Rio Verde

 

To get to the lower falls you have to cross this bridge

 

Under the falls

 

The walkway to the lower falls. 

 

 

 

The upper rapids

 

 

            Other areas outside of town 

 

Mud and rockslides were common 

 

Numerous narrow tunnels on the roads through the mountains

 

 

 

            Other smaller falls

 

 

 

            Other mountain scenery

 

Volcan Ilinisa

 

Volcan Cotopaxi

 

            Linda bought a hat from a Hat Shop in the old city. Here are pictures of traditional hat makers.

 

 

                On the principal Old City street was the Queen's Arch on the Street of the Seven Crosses

 

 

        In the Old City was the Old Hospital that is now the City Museum with interpretations and displays of artifacts dating back to the earliest inhabitants of the area.

 

The street outside the hospital

 

The hospital chapel

     

 

 

                    Near our hotel was Caroline Park that had a great botanical garden and many other things

 

In the center of the park was this colorful decommissioned airplane

Scenes in the Botanical Gardens