After our time in the Galapagos we flew back to Quito for about 12 days that we had planned to spend there. During our planned time in Quito we expected to take some side trips into the Amazon and possibly the sea coast. Quito represents one of the largest, least altered and best preserved colonial era centers in the Western Hemisphere and was selected to be the 2nd designated World Heritage Site.
After our short flight back we were reminded of the extreme elevation as soon as we exited the plane. The air was much cooler and thinner. We were panting as we hiked from the plane to get our bags. After retrieving our bags we took a cab to our hotel that was located in the central business district. Our hotel was the Sheraton Grand Quito which we found to be a first class hotel. The business district had lots of stores and even a large mall across the street from the hotel. Although it is a Spanish-speaking country many of the signs on the stores were in English advertising American brands.
Palacio Carondelet, the Seat of Government in Ecuador and home of the President. It was built in 1799.
When we got to the hotel, Linda was not feeling well and we had planned to not do much the first weekend as we acclimated to the higher elevation and work out an itinerary. We were on the top floor which was high off the street but looking around at the mountains we felt very small. We did venture out of and around the hotel to explore but we ate in the hotel the first day since we had no idea where to go. But, we found the food in the Hotel to be absolutely excellent. As we were on the Club Floor we had access to Breakfast and Dinner in the Lounge and drinks and snacks all the time which made life comfortable.
Street views near our hotel. Quito looked like a very modern city.
Over the course of the weekend Linda got progressively worse. On Sunday the hotel provided a tank of oxygen hoping that it was just the altitude and the oxygen provided some respite but didn't provide permanent relief. As a result, we asked the hotel for medical recommendations and they directed us to one of the major hospitals in Quito. We took a cab over and after a brief triage they admitted her.
For the next 3 days our trip was confined to a hospital room, doctors visits and my running to the hotel. But, they correctly quickly diagnosed Linda's issues and she was fully recovered the second day when we left. The hospital was very modern, well staffed and accommodating. Linda's room had a couch that the staff made up for me to sleep on. I ate in the hospital cafeteria while Linda had catered meals. Ecuador has private and public health insurance but since we didn't have insurance there they took a deposit by credit card. When we left the bill was ready and it was just a little higher than the original charge. In the end, while the issue disrupted our plans everything with it went well and the cost was far less than a comparable event in the States. Also, it gave us the opportunity to see a different side of the City.
The day after Linda was discharged we took it easy as we tried to work back to getting engaged in our visit. So now 5 days of our 12 days were shot and we had to develop some ideas for what we wanted to see.
Iglesia de El Segrario, Construction began in the late 17th Century
After getting some ideas from the hotel, we hired a cab from the hotel that took us around the City. Quito and Ecuador generally are very modern compared to other places we've been. There are many mid-rise buildings but few really high-rise buildings in Quito because of the threats of earthquake and volcanic eruption. The streets and highways we traveled were all paved and clean with good traffic management. We were, however, coached by many people to be careful going out at night in the City. While it was not visible during the day thefts are a major concern.
The beautiful valley in the collapsed caldera of Volcan Pululahau.
Ecuador is one of the smaller countries of South America. Its name means "Equator" because it straddles the equator and Quito was located around where ancient civilizations knew they were in a special place on the earth. Ecuador is bordered on the north by Colombia and on the east and south by Peru. It has 4 distinct regions. Beginning in the east is the headlands of the Amazon, then there is the Andean mountain region, then there is the coastal region and finally the Galapagos with each representing its own climate and ecosystem.
The Spanish first came to the area of Ecuador in 1532 which at that time was part of the Inca Kingdom. In 1534 they established the City of Santiago de Quito and commenced building a large monastery and cathedral and declared it San Francisco de Quito and the city was built out from there with the cathedral being the city center. Quito became a regional capital as part of the Viceroyalty of Peru that was later merged into the Spanish colony of New Granada which encompassed most of Spanish South America up to the area that is now Panama.
The immense and overpowering statue of the "Virgin of the City" overlooks Quito.
Before going to visit the equator, our driver took us to the Mirador de Volcan Pululahau. Pululahau is a now dormant volcano that last erupted in the 5th century. The caldera collapsed and it is now an area of beautiful farms.
This is the view of Quito watched over each day by the Angel.
Our next stop which was our primary objective was to visit the equator. There are actually 2 equator parks. Ancients and the Spanish identified one point that they called La Mitad del Mundo or "Middle of the earth." But, after the advent of GPS it was determined that the true equator was about 800 feet further north. So, naturally it needed its own recognition.
Looking down on our rooftop restaurant and the "Old City" with the Angel in the distance.
Our first stop was at the Intanan Solar Museum located on what is according to GPS the true equator. At the true center gps instruments show N 000.000.00 latitude. The Museum features many displays about the indigenous life in the area and illustrations about the forces at work on the equator that were very telling.
Oswaldo Guayasmin a world renowned Ecuadorian painter lived much of his life in Quito and his home is now open as a museum along with an additional building that houses much of his work that is not held by museums.
After playing the equator games we stopped at the original park for La Mitad Del Mundo (Middle of the World) briefly before continuing on to the "Old City." For hundreds of years the Park at La Mitad del Mundo was deemed to be the point where the equator crossed the area. Once GPS came along, they realized it was actually about 800 ft north of the park even though they had erected monuments to the point. Considering the tools they were working with when they thought they were at the equator to be only 800' off was pretty good.
The major waterfall of the Rio Verde of about 300' just downstream from Los Banos. This is among the headwaters of the Amazon.
Following my discussion I have attached photos that will show more of the incredible sights in the City. Many of the original buildings and cathedrals of Spanish Colonial Architecture are still present and most are still in use of some kind. On another day we visited the City Museum that was in the building built in 1565 and served as the City Hospital until 1974. Probably the oldest continuously operating hospital in the world.
Because our time was limited due to our late start the only trip outside the City that we could arrange was a day trip to the Town of Los Banos de Agua Santa (Baths of Holy Water). Los Banos is a town that is southeast of Quito about 200 km in lower elevations and is on several rivers that are headwaters of the Amazon. It is a popular tourist area because of its hot springs, waterfalls and large national parks in the area. We spent the day and enjoyed the scenery all the way there.
Snow at the Equator. Volcan Cotopaxi on our trip to Los Banos. The summit is 19,347'.
Along the way to and from Banos we passed several volcanoes that were snow-capped. It was amazing to see snow within a degree of the equator. The altitudes in Ecuador are something to behold. The altitude of Quito is almost twice that of Denver. Several of the peaks around Quito reach to about 20,000 ft which is as high as Mt. McKinley in Alaska that is the highest point in North America. Pikes Peak is only about 14,000 ft. The high peaks are active volcanoes that all have eruptions in modern times. They do not have active lava flows but are monitored for seismic activity with predictions of future eruptions.
One of the 2 interior courtyards of the Original City Hospital San Juan de Dios built in 1565 and in service until 1974.
The day after our trip to Los Banos we headed back to the "Old Town" to visit the City Museum that was in the old hospital. The Museum featured displays of the inhabitants that populated the area around Quito from the earliest days right up to modern times. There was also displays from when the building was used as a hospital. The old hospital served its purposes and when it closed Ecuador developed a very modern medical system.
In one of our final days we visited the Botanical Gardens that was in the park just a block away from our hotel. The Gardens were very interesting and I've posted several pictures to go with the narrative.
Scenes from the Botanical Garden in
Carolina Park near our hotel.
Our last days were decompressing and getting ready to return to Panama. To and from Panama we flew on Copa Airlines, Panama's international carrier. When we checked in at the airport the agents asked us for our final destination and when we told them Panama they were surprised until we showed them our Panamanian Cedulas.
Scenes from the Zoo in Los Banos
Toucan
Since we missed so much we have many reasons to return to Ecuador for further visits and also to go into neighboring Peru.
We spent 2 nights in Panama City shopping and enjoying the City before we flew back to Bocas. In all we were gone almost a month but it was hardly enough time to experience Ecuador.
Following are some additional pictures from our trip with some discussion.
The Virgin of the City
Views around the Old City
Views at Street level around the Restaurant
Mitad del Mundo
The original park celebrating the Equator or "Middle of the World" with the monument below.
Views around the Park
The new location of the Equator as established by GPS
At the equator we were in two different hemispheres and two different seasons.
Ancient time and calendar tools used by indigenous civilizations. At the equator the above accurately displayed the time and the below displayed the season.
Other displays in the Museum
Photos from the Zoo at Los Banos
Views from a hill overlooking the town including a panoramic swing.
The Falls of the Rio Verde
In the center of the park was this colorful decommissioned airplane
Scenes in the Botanical Gardens
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