Sunday, December 22, 2019

Traveling through the land of Valencia Oranges

After our time in Barcelona we left early to go to Valencia our next destination. Getting around Spain was fairly easy as there were Autovias going the way we were. The Autovias were one of the major projects started by the dictator Francisco Franco modeling after his ally Adolf Hitler who built the Autobahns in Germany. After Franco's death the autovias were in disrepair and the new government began improving them to the condition they are today. Many of them are toll roads but we found four-lane limited access highways all over the area we traveled making getting around fairly easy.


Columbus Plaza in Valencia

We used the phone app Waze to help us and amazingly had all the data for all the roads but it was confusing hearing the computer voice try to pronounce the names. It often took a minute to understand what was being said before actually seeing the road sign. We made several extra trips around the roundabouts waiting for clarification from the delayed response. We also found that in the roundabouts the count was not always accurate as there were access roads that weren't counted and some of the roads counted were grave lanes. But overall the app guided us to exactly where we were going.


Bullfight poster for the bullring in Valencia.


Plaza de toros (Plaza of the bulls by the bullring).


La Gran Via in Valencia


One of the other major achievements of the Franco regime was the emphasis on agriculture. Unlike other collectivist farm projects Franco's worked and Spain continues to be a major exporter of produce to Europe and the world including the world famous Valencia oranges. So named for the region where they were grown. But we saw citrus groves from just south of Barcelona until we left the coast near Malaga and the citrus groves were replaced by olive groves.


La Gran Via in Valencia.

The drive took only a little over 4 hours and Waze had us going onto a street that was blocked so we followed traffic and eventually it got us to our hotel but we didn't see it so we had to go around several blocks again until we were back at the same spot and saw the single door with our hotel sign above it. We stayed in the Marriott AC Hotel in Valencia which was right on Columbus Plaza but the entrance was one door. We parked in a sort of standing lane that we thought would give me enough time to check in and then go to parking. Upon checking in I learned it was a local holiday and streets were blocked for parades and later demonstrations and the parking garage entrance was just behind us.

The Columbus Market in Valencia.

The street had three lanes of heavy traffic, this little nether lane I was in and a bike lane along the curb. So to avoid the traffic I backed up the bike lane so I could turn into the garage. As I was just about to make my turn into the garage a Valencia City police car stopped and started yelling at us for blocking the bike lane. I tried to explain we were turning into the garage and he finally left and we went into the garage.


The sailboat fountain by the beach. The top fountain was turned off.

This garage was typical of most parking garages where we traveled. Spaces were for very small cars and the turns were the size of the parking spaces expecting the car to turn 90 degrees in its own length. It was as bad as driving our boat in a marina with narrow fairways so having had practice I mastered the art well and we turned in the car without a scratch.


Looking up at the crowd on the beach making deafening noise.

One of our objectives in coming to Valencia was to see the city that was home to the Spanish food Paella, visit the wonderful museums and possibly the beach. But, having been rerouted because of the holiday it took longer to get in than we expected and then finding a restaurant for lunch took really long as many were closed for the holiday and those that were open were booked. So we found one of the markets that was open and had a paella version of fast food and then went on with our exploration.


Beach volleyball with a sailboat sailing over the sea.



Stopping by La Fabrica de Hielo (Ice Facotry) for a beer, snack and rest by the beach in Valencia.













 
We no longer had time for the wonderful museums so we went to the beach because there was a renowned sailboat fountain there. To get there we learned the Valencia bus routes which of course were different because of the holiday but managed to get on the right bus and found the beach. We found our fountain but not all of it was working. The beach was also overrun with young people who had apparently been in the parade and the din of the talking of these thousands of young people was as loud as jetliner on takeoff but it went on for blocks. We finally had to leave and found a nice little brew pub where we could snack, rest and plan what was left of the day.


A Valencia Paella at dinner.

We took the bus back to town and went to our hotel to freshen up. Later that evening we walked about and found a restaurant that was reputed to have good Paella and ordered a traditional Valenciana paella. Traditional Valencian paella is a bean, veggie rice dish with chicken, rabbit and snails that is usually baked in a grill or barbecue. It is a distinctive dish and usually very good.


An excavated Roman wall in Cartagena.

When we left the hotel a demonstration that started earlier had grown to a massive size with loud chanting. There were police in riot gear cordoning them off from bystanders and the police had armored vehicles in support. I never found out exactly what the protest was about or the intentions but when we returned from dinner it was gone. After traveling around Central America and other


 Military Museum of Cartagena. 
 

parts of Europe we have experienced many demonstrations and fortunately this one was benign. The hotel staff said it was "friendly." But, shortly after we left Barcelona demonstrations there erupted into violence over the jailing of Catalonian separatist leaders by the Spanish Supreme Court. So when traveling in any foreign countries it is important to have situational awareness of the political climate. Normally tourists are not targeted. But, one can be in the wrong place at the wrong time.


Square in Cartagena.

The next morning we packed up again and headed farther south to Cartagena. We were excited because we would get to see an old friend and fellow IP 420 owner Wendy Kravit from Annapolis who is living on her boat in that vicinity. It was also not a long drive  and we got there in the late morning.


The excavated ruins seen through the glass floor in the discount store.

We didn't have an issue finding our hotel this time and pulled into a loading zone to unload. But, then we went into the garage and contrary to reviews had no issues getting into it. Wendy met us shortly after we arrived and she gave us a tour of the old town.


Mosaic on a cathedral in Cartagena; "Star of the Sea Help your children."

Cartagena is an impressive city on so many levels. It dates back to the Phoenicians going back to many centuries BC. The exact date of founding is not known although it is identified as being founded by the Carthaginians in 277 BC. It was later conquered by the Romans and then suffered through the Moorish conquest and then the Spanish reconquest and became part of modern Spain. It's harbor is excellent and home to the Spanish Navy. There is a huge maritime presence and business there as witnessed by the marinas and marine facilities.


Municipal Administration of Cartagena.

Wendy took us around the town and showed us a floor in a dollar store that had been replaced with glass to allow viewing of Roman ruins that had been discovered during a building renovation and were now permanently showcased for all to see. After a quick lunch we drove out to meet two of Wendy's closest friends.


Yacht Port Cartagena Marina.

She introduced us to the couple that crewed with her when she took her boat across the Atlantic and have helped her with many projects and she has an office in their home. We had a wonderful discussion over drinks and then dinner and then back to our hotel where we talked for a long while on the street.


Roman ruins with a windmill situated atop the partially excavated ruins.

We had a very wonderful visit with our old and new friends and learned much about life there. Nigel had lived there for many years but was getting ready to move on because of continuing vandalism and theft along with a general unwillingness of local authorities to protect ex-pats. But, it seems that is not exclusive to Spain.


The view across Mar Menor at sunset. 

Life there has a lot to offer and we enjoyed our visit to the citrus growing region of Europe but time to move on for us as the clock was ticking. We had now spent a week in Spain and we had a lot more Spain to go.


After our wonderful day in Cartagena and dinner in Los Nietos with Wendy and her friends Nigel and Jennifer at their marina.


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