Winter is coming

We're getting settled in here at the Jib Room for our temporary stay. Hard to believe we got here about a month ago but of course we were gone for 2 weeks back to Chicago. We've been working boat chores everyday and socializing at the Bar with other marina guests and locals. Boats are coming in almost daily. The anchorage out in the harbor is getting more crowded from when we first got here last month. Between now and Christmas things will start to get busy around Marsh Harbor as many people bring their boats here then head back to the States for the holidays while many on holiday come here to get a break.

After a hard day of boat work enjoying a "Bilge Burner" the house specialty rum punch.

We've been trying to maintain a daily fitness regime of some kind that we do in the morning and then do any errands we have. Fresh food arrives on the island and is available Thursday so we ride over to Maxwell's the Marsh Harbor grocery store to stock up on the fresh things. Fresh food here is available although it is often outdated or close to expiration by the time it's available. It's disappointing to pay the premium price for fresh food only to have much of it be unusable. We try to keep a diet of fresh fruit and vegetables which is hard but we usually find things to keep up our diet. Once we leave here that will become more difficult so we are enjoying it for now. Maxwell's is about a 15-20 min bike ride from our boat.

One of my projects was to assemble this motion sensor light by attaching a 12 volt DC charger plug on the end so we can plug it into the cockpit 12V DC outlet as another security measure.

We've also found that here in the Abacos unlike most other parts of the Bahamas there is some agriculture. Maxwell's sells Abaco Chicken which is raised locally and not badly priced. Surprisingly it is organic and good. Interestingly the way they cut chicken and turkey here is unusual. We got a package of chicken thighs to try and the thigh included a portion of the back. The fresh turkey leg packages in the store cut the bone in cross-sections rather than as a single piece. There are also some locally grown fruits and vegetables which advertise themselves as organic which is surprising but certainly there are fewer pests here to worry about although I would think the thin soil would require fertilizing. Many homes have fruit trees growing in their yards and we've seen lots of gardens around homes near the marina.

A papaya tree in a local garden loaded with fruit at the top and under the lower limbs.

Last week on Wednesday we went to one of the signature events here at the Jib Room and that was "Rib Night" where they offer a prix fixe rib dinner. It was good but not something we will do often. Again, the cut of the ribs was different than what we've known in the past although they were big and meaty.

One of the places in the neighborhood that we walk by.

One day last week a local fisherman came around on the dock selling fresh-caught stone crab claws. We've had them before here in the Bahamas and they are so much better than the ones in Florida. We had a couple for lunch that day and they were huge and really good. Today a guy came by selling lobsters and we passed but asked him to come back next week. Some folks in a boat across the dock bought some and they looked really good. We brought a bottle of champagne along for New Years and plan to have lobster and stone crab. Should be a nice way to celebrate a great 2016 and usher in a new exciting 2017. But, again can't eat that stuff all the time.

The stone crab claws to be devoured.

Over the past several days we had 2 cold fronts come through beginning Thursday night. While the temps weren't too cold they brought in lots of unstable air with lots of moisture and wind. As a result we weren't able to keep up with our outside cleaning and polishing so we focused on inside work. In this miserable weather it was nice being tied to a dock where we could at least get off in a lull and walk to the bar. We watched the boats on anchor get thrown around knowing the folks were trapped there or face a wet ride into shore. Saturday and Sunday had a few breaks but rained monsoonal rains without letup much of the day. At night we sat in and watched movies. Internet access and even the TV cable was intermittent mostly because of the weather. Just life in the third world.

In the upcoming week as the rains stop we plan to get back at exterior work and maybe do a dive midweek and then go out sailing again for the weekend. We'll see as the weather materializes and winter in the Bahamas develops.

The Jib Room street view.

If we're in the Bahamas it must be Thanksgiving

Several months ago we began laying out a timeline that would get us to the Bahamas earlier this year than in the past. Several reasons for that. The first is the weather. It is more probable to get better weather for a crossing in November or early December than when lots of people want to cross in January and February. Second, we wanted to be able to move farther south early in the winter to enjoy the Bahamas and be in a position to get to the Caribbean early in the spring to enjoy more time there before heading for hurricane shelter. Finally, we needed a place to leave the boat while we traveled for the Thanksgiving holiday.

The day before we left Marsh Harbor we went for a walk. The first image was just across the road from the marina and made a very perfect view with the color contrasts and artsy view. The lower image is a Papaya tree loaded with fruit.

So doing a little backward planning yielded the idea to be in Marsh Harbor for the holidays at the Jib Room where they had a really reasonable rate for 2 months and we could get back to the US for Thanksgiving and march south whenever we wanted. Having accomplished that we cleaned the boat in preparation for our trip deferring the bigger projects until after we returned as we planned to bring back many things with us that we either forgot or didn't realize we needed. Most things are available in Marsh Harbor for a price so we endeavored to bring back what we could. With no specific missions to accomplish we packed and relaxed to prepare for our trip back to cold country.

The contrast of where we left to where we went.

Here we are enjoying 80 degree sunshine and packing to go to below freezing temperatures.  We had to dig out gloves, hats, sweats, sweaters, coats and every bit of cold weather clothes we had on board. Hard to think of what you need for cold weather when you're in a t-shirt and bathing suit. But we pulled it all together and got some extra bags to bring back the stuff on our list. The good thing was that the Chicago area where we were going was fairly warm but was getting colder so it wouldn't be too bad when we got there.

With everything ready we left our home in a foreign country, again, to travel back to where the sun isn't shining.The flight from Marsh Harbor to Miami was short, on time and pleasant. Clearing in through Miami with Global Entry is really a piece of cake. This time unlike the last it was very quick getting back through Security but still no TSA Precheck lanes.

Bundled up to deal with the cold.

We got to Chicago as the sun was setting and the cold northwest wind was beginning to drop the temps. When we landed and got to the gate it was in the 50's. By the time we got to where we were going it was in the 30's. Not too bad except when you're in shorts and flip-flops. Getting inside at my sister-in-law's house where we were staying I thought I was running into a bunker during an artillery barrage to get out of the cold. So our time in cold country began.

Originally we planned to leave Chicago the week after Thanksgiving but with all the things we had to do it became obvious we needed more time so when calling the airline we were able to get a flight back the Thursday after Thanksgiving instead of the day after Thanksgiving as planned. So for the first time in months we had time to relax, visit, socialize and shop as necessary. But most importantly it gave Linda the chance to spend more time with her 96 year-old father before we moved to more remote locations.

Over the next 2 weeks we visited with several family and old friends almost daily. Our days were spent shopping and visiting Linda's Dad. We had the opportunity to meet a college acquaintance and fellow sailor Jeff and Sandy Melim on the way back from Champaign, IL after visiting Linda's son, Seth on the day after Thanksgiving.

After dinner with Jeff and Sandy Melim. Great visit catching up.

We had a small family turkey dinner on the Wednesday afternoon before Thanksgiving but Thanksgiving Day we got several family members together and hosted Linda's Dad for a Thanksgiving dinner at a restaurant close to his home so we could all have a very nice meal together. I think it was even snow flurrying to keep in the spirit of the season.   As much as the concept of snow felt alien to us.

Linda's 96 yo Dad at Thanksgiving.

Linda's Niece Sheri and her husband Rick VanOverloop at Thanksgiving.

The family gathered at Thanksgiving.

On one of the final days that we were in Chicago we drove down to the Loop to visit one of the few West Marine stores in Chicagoland, walk around Michigan Avenue but more importantly to enjoy a classic deep dish pizza at Pizzeria Due. We used to go there frequently in the past but haven't been there in years so it was a nice gesture to enjoy the veggie pizza sitting among all the classic Chicago sports memorabilia. But time came to get out of town before traffic built so we were gone back to the burbs for a final day.

Linda enjoying lunch at Pizzeria Due.

Chicago's famous Water Tower.

Strolling down Michigan Avenue.

Our return flight left Chicago O'Hare at 0500 so we could connect in Miami to the once a day flight to Marsh Harbor. So the last night there we went to bed about 8 and got up at 0130 to prepare and get to the airport. The trip was uneventful and by noon that day we were once again enjoying 80 degree sunshine.

Chicago O'Hare at 0400.

Back home again at the Jib Room.

To celebrate our return to the sun and reconnect we decided to go for a sail the weekend after we got back. Friday we did some shopping and got a new SIM card from BATELCO, Bahamas Telephone. Saturday with a nice wind we sailed down through the islands and dropped the hook by Tiloo Cay which is a National Park. With nice warm temps and plenty of sunshine it was a beautiful day for a sail. Once firmly anchored I swam out to check the anchor and then later snorkeled the rock ledge for about a half-mile in front of us. After a very pleasant night watching movies and then our usual Sunday morning breakfast we picked up the anchor and had a great sail with 10-15 kts of wind on the beam and bright sunshine.

Sailing out of Marsh Harbor on our weekend sail.

Matt Loew's Cay off Abaco Island.

Looking out over the Sea of Abaco.

Full sails heading toward Elbow Cay.

The iconic Hopetown Lighthouse on Elbow Cay.

Scenes from the anchorage.

Sunset at anchor.

What a beautiful weekend and time to get back into our lives after two weeks of cold. It's good to be home.

A circumnavigation begins with hauling the anchor

Our night at Ft Pierce was very pleasant. The temperature was warm, there was a nice moon and just a light breeze. Our planned destination was Spanish Cay in the Abacos where we had a reservation for our first night once we cleared customs there and we expected that it would take us about 24 hours to get there. Since they didn’t open until 8 we really didn’t need to leave early despite the desire to get underway. The slack water after high tide would be about 0900 and forecasts were for the seas to come down during the day so we planned to get underway about 0830.

Our last sunset in the US.

With a nice warm sun and light NE wind we brought up the anchor and slid out the channel very quickly with the outgoing current. Since the anchorage was very close it didn’t take long to get out. Once safely out of the channel we headed southeast. The western wall of the Gulf Stream was about 18 miles east of Ft Pierce but closer in the south so we estimated 3 hours at 7 knots we should hit current and then we would turn due east and maybe slightly north so as not to fight the current. Forecasts also were for the current to be very light where we were crossing so we shouldn’t be pushed far to the north.

Those first 3 hours were uneventful. For once, the forecasts seemed to be correct and as expected right about 3 hours out we started to see current so we turned due east with the swells now coming more ahead of us and the wind continuing its decline. As planned we motored east for about 4 hours as the swell continued to decline and we stopped moving north so we turned southeast once again and headed for a waypoint called “The Little Bahama Bank” which is just north of some reefs and Memory Rock. In all I don’t think the stream pushed us more than a mile north so we had little ground to makeup and the seas were calming. Of the 5 crossings of the Gulf Stream I’ve done this was the most benign. We did have dolphins swimming with us on occasion that added some excitement watching from the bow as they swam through the bow wave and back and forth under the keel.

Florida in the rearview mirror.

It was dark when we got on to the Bahama Bank but it is mostly wide open water about 20’ deep. So we set out a route based on waypoints in the Explorer Charts to navigate our way through the upcoming shoals and cays. About 0300 we began to see lights on islands so we knew we were getting close. As the sun rose we could see Spanish Cay and then motored in a few minutes after 0800 as expected. A successful crossing albeit by motor but we each got some good rest and were ready for the day. This would be our last overnight until we leave the Bahamas in the spring to head to Jamaica after having done 4 nights offshore since leaving Beaufort.

Spanish Cay Marina scenes.

First order of business was to clear in through Bahamian customs and immigration. Spanish Cay is the only place to do that in the Abacos outside Marsh Harbor and we wanted to make some other stops before Marsh Harbor so we elected to clear in there. Afterwards we had a champagne brunch to celebrate the crossing and after a short nap went to the beach to enjoy the beautiful day.

Our champagne breakfast celebrating our arriving in the Bahamas.

Our swimming beach.

Next morning we traveled on to Green Turtle Cay and went ashore to visit New Plymouth Town and hope for Asian food but the takeaway was closed for Monday. Oh well. Then on Tuesday morning on schedule we moved on to Marsh Harbor for a 2 month sojourn over the holidays, some relaxation and an unhurried opportunity to do some long overdue boat chores. But on the way we had to pass through Whale Cay Cut or “The Whale” as it is known. The Whale is rather infamous around the Abacos as it is open to the northeast and when winds blow from that direction it “rages” and is unpassable. Sometimes it may be weeks before it can be traversed but we were able to cross over very smoothly and went on in to Marsh Harbor.

Looking NW from the Whale Cut.

Looking SE from the Whale Cut.

Infamous Whale Cay as we were giving the passage report to the Abaco Cruisers Net.

With no wind or current getting in our slip was easy and then began the cleanup tasks and preparing to leave the boat to fly back to the US for Thanksgiving. The weather began to deteriorate as expected and rain moved in for the night. But during a lull in the rain we walked around the end of the Bay to Snappa’s for a happy hour celebration.

Celebrating Marsh Harbor at Snappa's.

Our final port before departure

Although we got behind because of Hurricane Matthew we made it into Jacksonville with over a week before we would need to leave. Our original plan called for us to be in St Augustine for over 2 weeks before leaving. So now with shopping lists still being developed and work items being identified we got into Jacksonville on Sunday 30 October with big things to do.

But before we got down to it we spent the day relaxing after the overnight passage and enjoyed the pool and hot tub at the marina while visiting with other boaters. After the hurricane and the damage done to St Augustine we decided to look for a place where we could be sure of getting berthing at a reasonable rate and provide access to the facilities we needed.

Taking a dip in the pool while recovering from the passage from Charleston.

Last year friends of ours stayed at Ortega Landing Marina along the Ortega River just off the St John's River south of downtown Jacksonville and we knew it was very nice. So we were excited when we were able to get a slip there for the time we needed. There are also lots of live aboards there including the son and cousin of our good friend Skip Maiden. Going down the river was a haul but with the current it went quickly but spending time at Ortega Landing was very enjoyable.

Ominous looking clouds over the marina but nothing materialized.

Our first order of business was to get Linda's DOD ID card renewed because it expired on 11/1/2016. We were able to score an appointment and after getting our rental car drove to Jacksonville Naval Air Station and very quickly got that chore done. Then we drove down to Green Cove Springs to our "home" and retrieve our mail and packages that had been accumulating. But the next big thing was a birthday celebration. We went out to dinner at Tip Tum Thai a great local Thai restaurant and ended the day at bb's Bistro for desert. I had a piece of coconut cake. What a treat!!!!

But Tuesday started our shopping in earnest. We left the marina and went to the shopping region in Jacksonville. We made stops at Bed, Bath and Beyond; Best Buy; West Marine; Total Wine; Pennzey's and Trader Joe's and returned to the boat with a car full of things to stow.  Provisioning for years away isn't easy. We bought stuff that can be packed and hopefully will last but at some point the stores will exhaust and we will need to go to local purchase wherever that is.

Wednesday started out with a work task going to the local Social Security Office to address a Medicare issue but then we drove to St Augustine to meet our old friend Dave Sikes for lunch and hanging out. On our way back we stopped at home in Green Cove Springs so Linda could pick up her official Cubs World Series Shirt to wear for the last 2 games of the series.

Linda shows off her Cubs World Series T-shirt at Tip Tim Thai Restaurant.

The next several days involved working on inventorying and stowing our purchases and accomplishing boat tasks. At night we watched the world series games. Finally on Thursday night we saw the Chicago Cubs win their first World Series since 1908!!!! The lovable losers won ending the longest drought in baseball with a team that was young, energetic and well managed. The final game was exciting and drew in fans who probably hadn't watched a baseball game in years.

For the weekend we drove down to Sanford to visit my daughter and her family. She and her husband were both sick so we spent as much time as we could without being taxing on them. It's always wonderful to see them and their kids. All my grand kids are doing so well I am so happy for them.

Visiting with the grand kids Ethan and Hunter.

We spent the final few days doing last minute shopping, stowing, working and planning as we went. Like last minute Christmas shoppers we ran out for each thing as we thought of it until we ran out of thoughts. Of course Tuesday night, November 8 we watched the election results. I never make political comments in our blog or Facebook but I was excited to see the country reject the Clinton's. I was on active duty in the Army in the 1990's and I believe the country could not afford 8 more years of them. We'll see how Mr. Trump does but I'm optimistic.

On Monday night the 7th of November we had a real treat. We were visited by a former work colleague and his wife, Rod and Gina Thomas who currently live in Wyoming but are selling out and going to move aboard a sailboat which they have to buy. They were in Florida taking a learn to sail class from Bluewater Sailing School. It was great seeing them after 3 years.

At dinner with Rod and Gina at bb's Bistro.

As we have along the way our focus was on the weather. Crossing the Gulf Stream requires a good weather window and sailors to the Bahamas fret over this. It looked like conditions did not favor us so we engaged our weather routers Dane and Jennifer Clark to help us. Our original plan was to leave Jacksonville and do 2 overnights and go straight to the Abacos by whatever was the most advantageous (read least bad option) route. After a couple of quick discussions we finally focused on leaving Jacksonville Thursday and staying in close to avoid really rough seas and then crossing over Saturday when seas seemed the least. So we finalized our plans to go down the coast to Ft Pierce to get fuel and spend Friday night with crossing over to the Bahamas on Saturday. We determined we could easily make Spanish Cay on Sunday morning early and do our check-in.

Our final lunch before heading out at Fuji Sushi.

Finally with as much shopping as we could do at the regular stores, the NAS Commissary, Whole Foods, Trader Joe's and Total Wine we prepared to depart early Thursday the 10th of November. We had 3 challenges getting out of the marina. The first was the Ortega River Bridge which we learned operated 24 hours a day. The next was the Main Street Bridge over the St John's which was on limited schedule and had a scheduled opening for 0645 during the week. The final was the current. High tide was scheduled at Ortega River about 0615 although the current changes there about 2 hours after high tide. So looking at our challenges, we decided to leave about 0515 to get through the Ortega Bridge, wait for the Florida East Coast Railroad bridge if necessary, make the 0645 opening at Main Street and catch the current outgoing within the hour.

The sun was rising over downtown as we were waiting for the bridge.

We left our slip about 0515, got through the Ortega bridge, had to wait for a train at the RR bridge and made the 0646 opening. We slogged through current for less than an hour and our trip out the river from that point was as quick as coming in. By 0930 we were in the ocean and heading south to Ft Pierce. The seas were rolly but behind us after we turned and we had an eventful trip down the coast to FT Pierce.

Sunset just north of Daytona Beach.

Moonset over Cape Canaveral.

We ran in the Ft Pierce inlet with a slight outgoing current. We stopped at the Ft Pierce City Marina for fuel and then went across the ICW and dropped the anchor for a very nice quiet evening recovering from our just completed overnight and to prepare for our gulf stream crossing. Was a beautiful quiet night and the beautiful setting showed why we love this life. Tomorrow we leave the country on the first leg of our multi-nation cruise.

Our final sunset in the US from our anchorage in Ft Pierce.