A circumnavigation begins with hauling the anchor

Our night at Ft Pierce was very pleasant. The temperature was warm, there was a nice moon and just a light breeze. Our planned destination was Spanish Cay in the Abacos where we had a reservation for our first night once we cleared customs there and we expected that it would take us about 24 hours to get there. Since they didn’t open until 8 we really didn’t need to leave early despite the desire to get underway. The slack water after high tide would be about 0900 and forecasts were for the seas to come down during the day so we planned to get underway about 0830.

Our last sunset in the US.

With a nice warm sun and light NE wind we brought up the anchor and slid out the channel very quickly with the outgoing current. Since the anchorage was very close it didn’t take long to get out. Once safely out of the channel we headed southeast. The western wall of the Gulf Stream was about 18 miles east of Ft Pierce but closer in the south so we estimated 3 hours at 7 knots we should hit current and then we would turn due east and maybe slightly north so as not to fight the current. Forecasts also were for the current to be very light where we were crossing so we shouldn’t be pushed far to the north.

Those first 3 hours were uneventful. For once, the forecasts seemed to be correct and as expected right about 3 hours out we started to see current so we turned due east with the swells now coming more ahead of us and the wind continuing its decline. As planned we motored east for about 4 hours as the swell continued to decline and we stopped moving north so we turned southeast once again and headed for a waypoint called “The Little Bahama Bank” which is just north of some reefs and Memory Rock. In all I don’t think the stream pushed us more than a mile north so we had little ground to makeup and the seas were calming. Of the 5 crossings of the Gulf Stream I’ve done this was the most benign. We did have dolphins swimming with us on occasion that added some excitement watching from the bow as they swam through the bow wave and back and forth under the keel.

Florida in the rearview mirror.

It was dark when we got on to the Bahama Bank but it is mostly wide open water about 20’ deep. So we set out a route based on waypoints in the Explorer Charts to navigate our way through the upcoming shoals and cays. About 0300 we began to see lights on islands so we knew we were getting close. As the sun rose we could see Spanish Cay and then motored in a few minutes after 0800 as expected. A successful crossing albeit by motor but we each got some good rest and were ready for the day. This would be our last overnight until we leave the Bahamas in the spring to head to Jamaica after having done 4 nights offshore since leaving Beaufort.

Spanish Cay Marina scenes.

First order of business was to clear in through Bahamian customs and immigration. Spanish Cay is the only place to do that in the Abacos outside Marsh Harbor and we wanted to make some other stops before Marsh Harbor so we elected to clear in there. Afterwards we had a champagne brunch to celebrate the crossing and after a short nap went to the beach to enjoy the beautiful day.

Our champagne breakfast celebrating our arriving in the Bahamas.

Our swimming beach.

Next morning we traveled on to Green Turtle Cay and went ashore to visit New Plymouth Town and hope for Asian food but the takeaway was closed for Monday. Oh well. Then on Tuesday morning on schedule we moved on to Marsh Harbor for a 2 month sojourn over the holidays, some relaxation and an unhurried opportunity to do some long overdue boat chores. But on the way we had to pass through Whale Cay Cut or “The Whale” as it is known. The Whale is rather infamous around the Abacos as it is open to the northeast and when winds blow from that direction it “rages” and is unpassable. Sometimes it may be weeks before it can be traversed but we were able to cross over very smoothly and went on in to Marsh Harbor.

Looking NW from the Whale Cut.

Looking SE from the Whale Cut.

Infamous Whale Cay as we were giving the passage report to the Abaco Cruisers Net.

With no wind or current getting in our slip was easy and then began the cleanup tasks and preparing to leave the boat to fly back to the US for Thanksgiving. The weather began to deteriorate as expected and rain moved in for the night. But during a lull in the rain we walked around the end of the Bay to Snappa’s for a happy hour celebration.

Celebrating Marsh Harbor at Snappa's.