Saturday, April 30, 2022

Old Panama

Sign by the Panama City waterfront declaring it to be the beautiful life. What we think we're living.
 

During our stay in Panama after returning from the States we were able to spend time visiting the "tourist" sites.  As we travel around the Caribbean we try to visit lots of cultural and historic sites in the regions where we stay. The history and geopolitical story of Panama has intrigued me since I first learned about the canal and it's importance in world history.

Ancient cannons guarding the entrance to the Visitors Center of Panama Viejo.
 

Panama has had a significant place in history since Columbus first sailed here in about 1502 in his fourth and final voyage. During that trip he sailed the Caribbean coast including Bocas del Toro and along to Portobelo all of which he named. Shortly after that Spanish explorers and conquistadors began investigating the isthmus and realized the opportunity that it presented because of the short distance between the two great oceans of the world.

The Harbor at Portobelo.
 

In 1519 Vasco Balboa charted the isthmus and in 1521 the Spanish established the parish of Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion de Panama in an area that is now part of Panama City but is about 7 miles from Casco Viejo. Casco Viejo is the area now usually identified as the Old City or Old Quarter.  

The beginning of El Camino Real in Panama Viejo.

In 1521 the City of Panama was laid out and built on the Pacific to serve as the port for the exploration and trans-shipment of minerals across the isthmus to Portobelo where they would be removed to Spain. A highway was established between the two ports called El Camino Real, the Royal Highway and for hundreds of years the spoils of Spanish conquest moved between the City of Panama and Portobelo and then to Spain over the fabled Spanish Main.

The tower of the old Cathedral still standing.
 

The Spanish failed to fortify the City because it was assumed there were no threats in the Pacific. However, in 1671 the infamous English Pirate Henry Morgan attacked it having come across the isthmus but the inhabitants burned the City rather than have it fall into the hands of pirates. 

The inside of the cathedral and houses along the next street.
 

The survivors then moved to a peninsula about 7 miles north and built the new City of Panama on what has become known as Casco Viejo, or the "Old Quarter." 

An interpretive placard depicting the Cathedral and major buildings that surrounded the plaza.
 

Old Panama is distinctive because it isn't actually a safe harbor for ships. Ships anchored offshore near islands in the Bay and the cargoes were brought to shore in small boats. The new Panama was closer to the anchorage where the ships were unloaded. Now, those islands are part of the mainland having been connected with spoils from the construction of the Panama Canal.

Inside of the ruins of Iglesia del Arco Chato. One of the earliest examples of brick arches without keystones that have survived earthquakes when the church didn't.  Located in Casco Viejo.

The external facade.

 Here's an interesting site with pictures of the 7 principal cathedrals still in use. https://www.thelostandfoundhostel.com/blog/the-seven-churches-of-casco-viejo

The new Panama remained relatively unchanged for about 200 years until the US got interested in building the Panama Canal. Up to that time Panama was a step-child province of Colombia and the present fate of the Panamanians depended on the Governor of Colombia who was in power at the time. After the failed French attempt to build a canal the US proposed to buy out the French interest in a deal 

The entrance to the Panama Canal Museum in Casco Viejo.
 

with Colombia that they reneged on. The US then helped the Panamanians gain their independence and quickly made a deal with the new government. As part of its program to control and eliminate the mosquitos that were largely responsible for yellow fever and malaria on the isthmus and a major cause of the French failure, the US as part of its Canal project paved the streets of Panama and Colon; installed a water and sewer system; and electric power.

Panama City Hall

Views of Herrera Plaza dedicated to Tomas Herrera, a significant military and political leader in Panama. In Casco Viejo
 

                            Casa Casco, one of our favorite restaurants.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the opening of the canal and modern utilities the city began to grow. Today, the Panama of the pre-canal days is the area known as Casco Viejo and is probably less than 5% of modern Panama City. Over 500 years of history exists in one of the oldest and most influential areas of the western hemisphere. Settlements in the western hemisphere predate Panama by a few years. But, Panama was established and its influence in history begun less than 30 years after the discovery of the western hemisphere. Even today it is one of the very few true crossroads of the world where traffic from every corner passes making it a truly unique and culturally rich community.

Panama's BioMuseo that traces Panama from its earliest development from volcanoes through present day.

Panama Viejo or "Old Panama" is a World Heritage Site as it should be and I can't help but marvel at the accomplishments of these early settlers and what has been accomplished in the intervening years.

Visit old Panama and share the rapture of this history.


    The modern skyline of Panama City from the rooftop of Casa Casco in Casco Viejo.


 A closer view of the modern Panama Skyline.



2 comments:

  1. FANTASTIC historical post on Panama. Some day we want to get there and discover that area as well. Thank you for the effort and details posting in this read. Very interesting Maris and Linda.

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  2. Thanks Hayden. We are really enjoying our time in Panama even having been stuck here during Covid lockdowns. Before we came to Panama we were in love with Guatemala (and still are) but we really love it here. We want to go to Colombia and still plan to go on to the Eastern Carib but almost wonder why? Everything we want is here. With our pensionado discounts we can travel pretty cheaply throughout South America so look for more posts from the exciting places in this wonderful part of the world. You will really enjoy the Western Caribbean when you get here.

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