Life interferes with cruising

Looking across the Harbor at Placencia.

Since we have been in Belize we have been able to sail most of the places we’ve gone. In fact, as of the time of this writing (3/10/2018) we have only run the engine a total of 40 hours since last June when we fueled up after arriving at Rio Dulce. That includes leaving our marina and traveling down the Rio Dulce, traveling through Belize and crossing to Utila, Honduras. After all, the reason we came here was to sail everywhere.

Since we haven’t run the engine like we did in the Bahamas a bigger challenge has been power. Even though we have 650 watts of solar and a wind generator, most of the days have been mostly cloudy and generally windless. As a result we have had to run our generator more than before but it only includes 94 hours since last June. We have less than 300 hours on our generator after nearly 4 years of cruising. The weather is starting to improve and we are able to have days where the solar enables us not to have to run the generator every day to charge the batteries. The power requirement depends on how much we use during the day and how much wind there is. As a result we have only used 46 gal of diesel since we filled up in June of last year after we got to the Rio (about 9 months). Compare that to the year 2016 when we were doing the US East Coast and Bahamas and we used 890 gal of diesel.

View of Amekaya with her wind and solar power sources.

At Pelican Cay we split from our buddy boat who was going on to cruise some other cays and we headed to Placentia to deal with living aboard business issues. Just like living on land, living on a sailboat has the same life challenges in addition to those unique to living in a floating home. In our last blog update I mentioned one that appeared but another one has become foremost in our minds.

After our wonderful experience in Lagoon and Pelican Cays we returned to Placentia to reprovision and to deal with our upcoming insurance challenge. We also knew Linda would need another back surgery this summer, but some new conditions raised the question about when would it be best for her to do the surgery. Working to resolve this drove the remainder of our time in Belize. Looks like we will be able to resolve our insurance issue and have great coverage for hopefully the remainder of our years in the Caribbean.

The Pelican Cays.

Dinner at Pelican Cay Hideaway Lodge with our friends Pete and Jill on Regina Oceani.

We knew an MRI was a prerequisite for surgery and that led Linda to discuss with her surgeon back in Virginia who suggested she get one as soon as possible. We learned that there was an MRI Center at the hospital in Belize City and with an order from her surgeon Linda was able to get an order from the local government clinic for $2 who provided the necessary contact information and an appointment was scheduled for the following Monday.

The beautiful Belize mountain countryside on the way to Belize City by car.

Ironically, we had just driven to Belize City with our friends on Regina Oceani who needed to buy a new outboard dinghy motor from the only dealer in Belize that could provide one. We enjoyed spending the time with our friends Pete and Jill but it was a long trip. After we got back from the trip that Tuesday we were not in a hurry to drive back to Belize City. We considered our options and found out from another friend, Debbie Baldeo on Plucky Lady who was able to get us a slip for a few nights at Cucumber Beach Marina in Belize City where they were staying. Debbie spoke to the manager who made room for us to arrive on Sunday and depart on Wednesday after the MRI. Taking our home to Belize City sounded like a good option.

We left Placenica for the final time on Friday 23 February and our first night out was to be in Sapodilla Lagoon just about 13 miles north visiting many of our friends had holed up there after leaving Pelican Cays to ride out some bad weather. Shortly after we successfully got out of Placencia and we were going to sail the shackle that fastens the mainsail sheet block to the traveler came undone and released itself. After working unsuccessfully to repair it I was able to find a replacement among my spares because the broken shackle was bent beyond repair. After fixing it we sailed all the way to Sapodilla lagoon slowly but at a wind angle of about 38 degrees off the apparent wind. It was slow but it was sailing. That shackle had opened up on us once before a couple years ago and I was able to close it. The stresses of heavy weather sailing cause things to happen. I now wrapped seizing wire around the pin so it should not come loose again.

Doing the repair on deck while still sailing.

Several years ago developers tried to build a community along the shores of Sapodilla Lagoon that like many similar projects in the tropics have gone through numerous reorganizations. However, at some point early on a very nice marina was built that has fuel, water and some very nice facilities. When we got to the channel entrance we were surprised to find that the marina had installed lit marks all the way through the shoals and into the marina making this one of the easiest entries in a long time for us. We got to the fuel dock and turned around in time to see a squall bearing down on us. We had just enough time to secure everything and drop the enclosures and we watched as winds exceeded 30 kts and drenching rains fell. When it was over we got fuel and motored back out to the lagoon and dropped the anchor for a very peaceful night. Rain squalls continued through the evening so we didn't get to visit with many of our friends.

Sailing very close-hauled toward Middle Long Cay.

The next day we sailed about 30 miles to an uninhabited cay, Middle Long Cay, that is only 16 miles southeast of Belize City. Middle Long Cay is about 2-3 miles long and about a quarter to a half-mile wide so it affords excellent protection against the prevailing easterly winds. Unlike many cays, this one was totally deserted without another boat in sight. After dropping the anchor we went for a snorkel to see what was in the area. Snorkeling wasn’t bad and for the first time I found 2 very large conchs that we could have (we find them often in restricted areas). I’ve never cleaned conch before so it was an educational experience. Since we already had dinner planned it is still in the freezer. In Belize there is still wildlife to catch and eat unlike many other places.

The 2 captured conchs waiting to be cleaned.

We had a very pleasant night’s sleep and after our usual Sunday morning of blueberry coconut pancakes we headed to Belize City unaware of the conditions outside the shelter of the Cay. The wind was mostly dead behind us as we left so we turned south to catch the wind to avoid the shoals to the north and began a very pleasant reach with the main and jiob. As we got away from the Cay the wind increased, and the chop grew in size.  Before we jibed I pulled in the jib and pulled out the staysail to make jibing easy and we would then see what wind we would be dealing with. After the jibe we brought out a reefed jib and we were cruising between 7-8 kts with 20-25 on the beam and some heavy chop all the way to our marina.

Looking at the shore line of deserted Middle Long Cay.

Looking back across at the mountains on the mainland in the distance.

The water around Belize City is shallow and the access to the marina was reported to be 6’ at MLW. High tide was forecasted to be at 1749 with tide of less than a foot. With the great wind we arrived at the marina before we anticipated. Our plan was to get there less than 2 hrs before high tide for the best chance of getting in. When we were about 2 miles out from the marina we called on the radio and the manager told us we couldn’t come in because we needed to wait for high tide which at this point was in 3 hours She also mentioned the boat in our slip had not yet left but would be leaving shortly.

An unusual working vessel anchored along the way to BC.

We were too close to the lee shore to heave to so we tacked around in the choppy wind-swept sea. As we retraced the track we had just come we began to wonder if we could get into the marina at all. With the heavy wind and chop getting stuck in the channel after sunset could be disastrous. If we waited until high tide to make other plans we would be trying to go someplace else in the dark. Not to mention the complications of rescheduling the MRI. Much to our relief after the second tack the marina manager said we could come in so we proceeded to the waypoint for the marina entrance but could not see the channel opening. 

Breaching the channel past the jetty.

Coming through the breaking waves at the channel entrance.

The calm inside.

Usually I like to look for the smooth water between the breakers but the only thing visible was crashing waves. A small skiff passed us and we watched them going in. The channel approach was angled farther to the south and as we got around we were being pushed toward shore until we saw the opening and rode the waves between the rock piles to smooth water. We never saw less than 6’ of water in the channel and once inside the calm water and greatly reduced wind made it easy to get into the dock and secured. 

After we got settled we had drinks and learned about life at Cucumber Beach with Debbie and Luc from Plucky Lady whom we had met on the Rio. They gave us insight on getting around in Belize City. Cucumber Beach Marina is about the only marina in Belize City with water deeper than 4’. It is a working boatyard and dock for the shuttle fleet that ferries cruise ship passengers from the cruise ships to the City. The water around Belize City is shallow and cruise and cargo ships need to anchor about 5 miles out. Then passengers and cargo are ferried in and out. Several of the days we were in Belize City there were as many as 3 cruise ships were anchored off shore. The cruise ship tourists don’t see much of Belize City as they are bussed off to Mayan ruins, zip lines, jungle tours and other attractions of Belize.

Our time in Belize City was the intersection of many competing interests. The primary reason we were there was to complete Linda’s MRI but it was also the first time in a marina since leaving the Rio almost 2 months earlier so boat chores gained import. We also were trying to resolve our future travels in Belize and elsewhere that would be largely driven by the results of the MRI.

As we began to get busy on Monday the hospital called and said their MRI machine was not working but they would call when fixed. We found out from Collette, the marina manager there was an MRI in Chetumal, Mexico about 3 hours away and she called and made an appointment for 0800 on Tuesday. She also arranged for a cab to take us leaving at 0430 since time in Chetumal was an hour earlier.

Sunrise with a small shower on our way to Chetumal.

Just after 0430 on Tuesday the cab driver arrived to take us to Chetumal. About an hour into the trip a tire blew out. There seemed to be an issue with the tire replacement and we soon found out there was one lugnut that had been rounded off and wouldn’t come off with the lug wrench. The driver was able to go to a local farm and get an old wrench that got the nut removed. After that we quickly got back on our way and about 30 mins later the spare blew out. The driver called a friend that drove us the 45 minutes to the border where we cleared out of Belize.

Leaving Belize looking at the Mexican border.

Driving along the Mexican border wall toward the check-in.

The border crossing from Belize to Mexico is interesting and very controlled. The entire are is secured and a wall runs a long the entire border with a 4 lane road from the Belize checkpoint to the Mexican checkpoint several miles away. We took another cab to the Mexican checkpoint where we cleared into Mexico and then got another cab that took us to the hospital in Chetumal.

At the hospital everything was very informal and they took us back to the waiting room where there were several other people also from Belize waiting for MRI’s. The technician came out and talked to me in Spanish about the process. He explained that the MRI would be 3,000 pesos (US$172) in cash but I would not get a receipt. He said if I wanted a receipt it would be 6,800 pesos (about US$400). I opted for the 3,000 pesos and no receipt so we won’t get reimbursed by insurance. But at that price difference it’s not worth the hassle.

Looking down the Boulevard along the Bay.

Our lunch spot, La Viagra Jarocha.

We got the disc with the images and took them to the Chetumal FEDEX office and paid for it to be shipped to Virginia. Mission accomplished.

Our original taxi arrived at the hospital and after going to the FEDEX office drove us to lunch after at the La Viagra Jarocha (The Viagra Jar) and then shopping at Wal-Mart. Unfortunately, it never occurred to us that fresh things and some foreign goods (especially alcohol) would be an issue crossing the border. We were able to make it through with only losing 1 avocado to the inspection. After our very interesting discussions with the customs officials we then made it uneventfully back home.

The next day became a confusing discussion with the marina manager about when we needed to leave the slip as we needed to have some time for last-minute shopping and to clear out of Belize. We finally resolved that we could leave before hightide the next morning, Thursday and that would give us time to get done what we needed. Our friendly cab driver took us to the places we needed to go for our shopping and to clear out. By about 1300 we were cleared out of Belize so we would be free to leave the next morning.

We decided that after we left the marina we would sail back to Middle Long Cay, the following day out to Lighthosue Reef and then to Utila. We settled with the marina and left without any challenges in the channel and sailed all the way back to the Cay. After all the rushing around for the previous week it was nice to get to a place to decompress.   

We checked the weather and after much discussion decided the weather didn’t favor a sail to Lighthouse Reef but the weather would be great for going all the way to Utila on Saturday. So we relaxed for the day, did some swimming and a little sightseeing about the island while we prepared for an overnight crossing.

Our last sunset in Belize as the sun sinks over the mountains in the distance.

From Middle Long Cay we figured it would take us about 20 hours to get to Utila. Wind was forecast to be out of the NE making for sailable wind. Our course would take us almost due north to the main commercial channel coming out of Belize City and then sailing almost due east and then southeast between Turneffe Reef and Glover Reef and then straight to Utila a total distance of about 120nm.

We brought up the anchor about 1130 and motor-sailed for about an hour up to the channel because we needed to be really close to get around shoals until we got to the channel. Once we got into the channel we were able to sail and ran all along Turneffe aand then to Glover at about 6-8 kts with winds starting in the upper teens but dropping to about 10. We continued sailing as the wind dropped.

Linda took a first shift and got me up about midnight as she laid down to nap with the sails flopping about. We had a nearly full moon but looking at the sky it appeared that we could be in for some weather so we pulled in the sails and closed the enclosures just in time for a squall to hit. Like most the wind kicked up to over 20 kts and clocked around with heavy rain but was gone in 15 mins.

English Cay by the channel entrance into Belize.

The remainder of the night the wind varied from low 4-7 kts either on the nose or dead behind us. Over night the wind clocked all the way around so that in the morning it was on the nose all the way into Utila. We sailed for about 13 hours and motored for about 7 until we got the anchor down about 0800 in Utila.  In the weeks on either side of the passage the only rain we had was the squall on our passage. Fortunately for most of the night during our passage we had nice moonlight from the nearly full moon to help our visibility.

Our water tracks sailing at 7+ kts.

Turneffe Island. A reef off of Belize.

We arrived in Utila not as burned out as we usually are after an overnight passage and on our second try got the anchor set nicely in some grass. East Harbor in Utila is a very nicely sheltered harbor with about 270 degree protection open only to the south through west. The first attempt we drug but found a better spot where it set right away. I swam down to check the anchor and it was buried very solidly. The only issue was that the wind was out of the southwest when it normally comes out of the east so our anchor would be almost opposite of what it needed to be. The big question was would it reset as the wind turned.

Our first view of Utila with the rising sun. The high point is Pumpkin Hill.

Very shortly after we anchored the wind did shift back to the east but it was very light. There were only 2 other boats on the west side of the harbor when we anchored so finding a good spot was easy. After breakfast we went ashore to see if the authorities were open for us to complete our registration processing into Honduras. The Port Captain was in and offered to start our check-in. After completing some forms and reviewing our zarpe he wanted to go out to our boat to take pictures which we understood to be the case. But when we got to the boat he wanted to go inside and he asked to see our life jackets and flares. He took pictures of them. We took him back to the dock and he said to come back tomorrow when Immigration was open.

Anchored in East Harbor, Utila with our "Q" flag.

After a very pleasant and early evening we got our things together in the morning and went back to check-in. Having already visited the Port Captain we went to see the Immigration Officer first and he wanted copies of our passports which we didn't have so we had to go to a small shop around the corner and make them even though he had a copy machine there. We did all formalities with him and then went back to the Port Captain. Each office wanted copies of our crew list so I offered them a copy of what we got when leaving Guatemala and even though it said the destination was Placencia

Having lunch at Buccaneers after meeting with the Port Captain.

they took it and didn't seem to care. The port Captain completed all our paperwork and said he would have to send it to Tegucigalpa the capital and we could pick it up at 1600. Then he requested that we provide him one of our life jackets.  The previous day when he was on the boat he wanted a piece of our staysail furling line but I told him we needed it for the sail and he relented. But, since he knew how many life jackets we had it was hard to argue need since there only 2 of us on the boat and we had 10 to match the boat capacity as required. So if a life jacket we never used bought us peace with the local authorities it was a small price to pay and far less than entry fees into Belize. We heard from some other cruisers that he also asked them for a life jacket.

A view looking down the Main Street.

Utila is a unique and wonderful place. It is as good or better in many ways compared to places we have already been. The harbor offers excellent protection with some good holding. Check-in was easy with the authorities being right next to each other at the municipal dock. The town is one street and everything is in easy walking distance with lots of bars, restaurants, dive shops, hardware and grocery stores. The main street is very busy with motos, tuk-tuks, bicycles and small trucks. The crowd on Utila is a mix but mainly young kids there to dive or just backpacking. The proof of that is the number of bars that open at 10 or 11 and go until 4 AM. Not your typical cruiser lounge.  Utila is reputedly the cheapest place in the world to get your diving “C” card (Open Water Certification).

Utila is part of Honduras and the official language is Spanish but so far the authorities were the only people that spoke primarily in Spanish. The traditional language of the Bay Islands is English as they were controlled by England before ceding them to Honduras. Most of the people we’ve met here who were born here speak with a brogue like they do in Belize, parts of the Bahamas or Tangier Island in the US. With the large number of US and European tourists mostly everything is in English (and USD) as well. Our Spanish is getting rusty since we left Guatemala.

Clever coozies from Skid Row.

The harbor is also active with the many dive boats going in and out during the day. Launches go back and forth to other parts of the island carrying people and supplies. Ferries come to the municipal dock twice a day and several different cargo boats come in daily. There is even a roll-on, roll-off site but the containers stay there and get unloaded since the streets aren’t wide enough for a shipping container. As a result shopping is good and the stores got restocked at least twice a week and some three times a week so fresh fruit and produce is readily available in easy walking distance.

Having a drink at Relapse.

We found some very good restaurants here as well. Beer and rum drinks are less than US$2 and most meals are between US$6-8. Although on Tuesday we went to Mango Tango for Tapas Tuesday had 4 tapas entrees which were outstanding, 2 glasses of wine each and a great dessert. With tip the bill came to about US$55. This would be an easy place to spend lots of time. 

Mango Tango.

The Lionfish tacos at Mango Tango. 

As we get ready to expand our adventures in Honduras it appears we have solved our insurance challenge with a new policy offered that will cover us throughout the Caribbean without restrictions at a very competitive price.

We have resolved our schedule to address Linda’s medical issues. We will be returning to the Rio in early April and leaving the boat there and flying back to the US on the 19^th of April when she will begin her surgical protocol. Then we plan to fly back to the Rio in late June and then we will return again to the States in August for follow-up. During that time we will visit friends and family and take care of other business. Then if all is well head to Panama in the Fall and spend the next year or so exploring Panama, Colombia and do other traveling in South America.  Although spending more time in Belize and Honduras is very tempting.