This is what cruising is all about while back in the Exumas

After our busy sojourn in Nassau we closed out our visit and celebrated at Syrah a very nice wine and tappas bar across from the marina. Syrah is a very sophisticated restaurant with very unique styling using wine racks to create an ambiance of privacy at each table. The wine selection is good for the Bahamas and the food was unique for here. We had a flatbread and bottle of wine that were both very nice. We got there for a sort of late dinner because we were busy and after we got there the place filled up with locals and around 9 an ensemble began playing a very nice selection of 70's-80's selections. What a nice find.

Enjoying our dinner at Syrah.

The ambiance.

Sunday began with the wind blowing nicely but frustrating because we pulled around to the fuel dock before leaving but the pumps weren't working. We had tried to fill-up on the way in and they weren't working. We have had the problem elsewhere in the Bahamas. Sort of typical to expect things not to work.

We motored out of the Harbor into a strong northeast wind and when we turned southeast toward the Exumas we began to sail. We sailed nicely for a couple of hours before the wind began to die as we crossed the Yellow Bank. South and east of the island of New Providence are shoals that cross the paths to the Exumas. They feature relatively shallow water, rocks and coral heads that pose a threat to deep draft boats and a possible threat to shallow draft boats. In crossing them we've never seen anything much less than 10' and it was high tide when we crossed this time although we still did a watch and with the wind dying slowed as we went through.

Sunset back in the real world at Shroud Cay.

We motored for a short way and the wind seemed to be enough that we could use the spinnaker close hauled and we sailed on that for a while until the wind died again and then motored again until the wind seemed to be really filling in and we pulled out the sails for a very nice upwind sail for the last 15 miles. We sailed almost the entire way into Shroud Cay and dropped the hook for a couple nights.

Taking a break on the beach after kayaking up the middle creek.

Monday was a beautiful day at Shroud Cay and after a late start we kayaked up the middle creek like we did last year for several hours but with it being high tide we didn't find much wildlife. We did meet a couple, Craig and Sharon on an Island Packet 38, Bonavista 2 that anchored next to us who came by and invited us over for happy hour. We obliged and had a wonderful time making friends with this very pleasant couple from Newfoundland.

Heading out Hawksbill Cut.

The weather forecast was for some high winds later in the week so we needed to find a shelter. Most of the anchorages in the Bahamas offer protection from the easterlies but few offer shelter from strong westerlies. We found out our old friend Dave Sikes was anchored behind North Gaulin Cay near Big Majors and since we wanted to catch up with him we decided to go there. It was less than 30 nm if we went down the Sound instead of the Bank so we left early on Tuesday. There was no wind so we motored out at high tide through the Little Cistern cut which was rather tricky. We went through an area where the chartplotter showed us going over a hazardous reef but saw nothing shallow. Not sure if the GPS was off or we actually crossed the hazard. But, we got to open water without any issues and then went in the Big Rock Cut by Staniel Cay and anchored in the beautiful sheltered calm between several islands.

Our hideaway for a couple days.

Dave came over for happy hour and we had our usual fun time with him for the evening. Overnight swells started coming in from the north and he and several other boats left for other anchorages on Wednesday. Shortly after they left the swell abated so we stayed. Later some other friends, Bill and Sandy Miller from L'Attitude Adjustment came by. We literally ran into them at the BTC Office in Nassau and they heard us on the radio on Tuesday so they came by and we planned to get together for an early happy hour but ended up cancelling because Bill's back issues were acting up. But, we also found some other friends, Bob and Marsha on a Cabo Rico 45 had anchored not far from us after they aborted their trip to George Town due to the weather. So we spent a happy hour with them as the wind built as forecasted.

The weather didn't materialize as badly as predicted although we did have some rain squalls move through on Thursday that kept us from going to town. Although late in the day Bob and Marsha came by and we dinghied up to Sampson Cays to do some shelling.

Beautiful wind caves along the beach on Bitter Guana Cay.

Friday the winds abated and it was time to move on but we didn't move far. We were headed for Blackpoint for all their amenities but we wanted to stop by Bitter Guana Cay for a night. Usually there are few if any boats anchored there so after the crowd in our anchorage for the squalls we wanted a night alone. We motored the short 5 miles between anchorages going out Big Rock Cut and in Lumber Cay Cut making the trip in about an hour. We had come in Big Rock Cut Tuesday but this was our first experience with Lumber Cay Cut and the charts made it look difficult but it turned out to be fairly straightforward.  Going through cuts in the right conditions make them very doable. I prefer high tide, a little opposing current, good visibility and the calmer the better.

The protected iguanas of Bitter Guana Cay.

We got to Bitter Guana and there was another boat in the anchorage but we anchored far away from them. Bitter Guana Cay is home to a rare protected species of Iguanas. We've been here before and they can be very aggressive expecting food from anyone coming ashore. Unfortunately, tourists come here from Staniel Cay and Blackpoint and they feed them so the iguanas expect it. Walking around through their habitat is very interesting watching them do things like climb up shear rock faces and seeing the little ones scampering about.

We walked across the island to a small cove that came in from the ocean with a little beach and waded in and snorkeled out to the reef. On our way there we met the folks on the catamaran that was anchored next to us. Lots of very interesting undersea life forms and fish in the breaking surf. As the tide was going out we didn't stay long because it would have made it difficult to swim back to the beach. With the small corals and many sea urchins we needed to be able to swim and not walk our way back.

The beautiful little cove with a small sand beach right at the front.

View looking on out to sea.

We climbed the cliffs by the anchorage to enjoy the beautiful views of this and the surrounding islands before we snorkeled the wall off the north side of the anchorage.  After we got back I went over to exchange boat cards with the folks on the catamaran and they invited us over for happy hour. After showering we went over to meet Brian and Kim and their daughter and son-in-law. We had a great time and hope to see them again around the islands.

The beach cave.

That iguana just climbed straight up the wall next to the cave.

View from the top of the cliff.

Looking southeast.

Looking south.

Saturday we will move over to Blackpoint to maybe do laundry, take on some water and meet up with some other friends that we haven't seen in a while. This is what cruising is all about. Enjoying great natural beauty and meeting wonderful people. This past week we reconnected with old friends and made several new ones. In Nassau we were busy doing the business side of cruising and out here I've worked on cleaning and more maintenance but seeing the stars at night and enjoying friends makes it all worth while. The challenges are a small price to pay for the wonderful times that can never be experienced sitting around on shore.