The road to Nassau is through Spanish Wells

After enjoying our night in Hopetown we motored down to Lynyrd Cay where we anchored for the night before pushing off to Eleuthera. There was no wind for the trip down through the Abacos and we anchored off the last island in the Sea of Abaco.

House on Lynyrd Cay.

At the south end of the Sea of Abaco there are several islands. There is a large barrier island known as Lynyrd Cay that ends in reefs and shoals forming the southernmost cut through to the ocean just north of Little Harbor on island of Great Abaco. The night we stayed there about a dozen other boats were anchored there. We dinghied in to a little beach and walked across to the Atlantic side and walked on the ragged beach where we met several Canadian cruisers who were planning to continue cruising in the Abacos. We also saw a boat come in that we recognized from the Marsh Harbor marina. A Cabo Rico 38 named Alegria pulled in and we talked with them and they were planning to leave the next morning for Royal Island just like we planned. So we talked about getting together the next evening for a happy hour and we went on to explore Lynyrd Cay.

Lynyrd Cay looking toward to cut.

The rugged Atlantic beach on Lynyrd Cay.

Next morning at first light we got off our anchor along with about a half-dozen other boats and made for the cut. Tide was still going out and there was a light breeze from the west so wind and current were together and traversing the cut was a piece of cake. When going through a cut its important that wind and current are going in the same direction to avoid rages that form when they oppose.

The 50 mile trip from Abacos to Royal Island off of Spanish Wells was an uneventful motor although we did put up the spinnaker to sail for a short while but we got into the Royal Island anchorage with the anchor down before 1500. Royal Island is a deserted island just off Spanish Wells and Eleuthera that has a natural harbor in the center of it that has high ground protection almost 360 degrees except for the entry area that is open to the south which is not usually a bad weather direction.

Sunset in Royal Island.

We had a nice evening enjoying sundown with Ken and Sarah from Alegria as we made plans for the weekend in Spanish Wells.  After one of the most beautiful nights we saw in a while we headed in to Spanish Wells where we picked up a mooring just east of the main channel that we had used before. We thought about anchoring out but forecast was for heavy winds and storms coming through over the weekend with a frontal passage so we opted for the moorings which would be sheltered from the worst winds. Other than Royal Island there weren't any anchorages that offered protection. With the wind clocking around from south to north it would require several moves or if we anchored in Royal Island we wouldn't be able to enjoy Spanish Wells.

Spanish Wells is a very pretty community located just across a channel from Eleuthera and is the home of the Bahamian fishing industry. The town has many streets of charming brightly colored single or partial two-story homes with a gorgeous beach on the ocean side. One of our favorite Bahama restaurants is also here along with several other fun spots.

Some of the fishing fleet in Spanish Wells.

We planned to get a mooring in Spanish Wells because of the forecasted heavy weather coming. The mooring field would be well protected from the forecasted wind direction and give us the opportunity to enjoy the town. After getting on our mooring Friday, 20 January we needed to do some provisioning so we dinghied in and walked down to Pinders, the waterfront grocery store to pick up a couple things. We started to walk to the larger store when we decided we would rent a golf cart for a couple hours and go out to the Sandbar for a bit then make our other stops on the way back. The Sandbar a nice beach front bar/restaurant is another one of our favorite places. We sat there enjoying the beautiful day, downloading emails and just thinking how lucky we are to be here.

Views from the Sandbar.

Friday night we planned to meet Ken and Sarah Gross from Alegria for happy hour and dinner at the Shipyard, one of our favorite Bahama restaurants. Alegria is a Cabo Rico 38 very similar to one owned by another one of our friends and they’ve done extensive cruising in the Caribbean and we had a very pleasant evening and discussion making plans to visit Eleuthera on Saturday.

Sunset at the Shipyard.

Saturday Ken had made plans for us to get picked up by a boat and taken to Eleuthera where a rental car would be waiting for us to tour the island. Our first stop was the so-called Glass Window which is a point where the ocean and Eleuthera Sound are separated by a mere thread of land with a rock ledge that at high tide presents a view either way under a high bridge. The ocean waves crashing on majestic rock edifices in one view with the placid Sound the other.

Ken and I standing atop the cliffs over the Glass Window.

The Eleuthera Sound side of Glass Window.

The next stop was unique and very interesting. We drove back an unmarked paved road past some rubble to what was a former US Navy Facility Eleuthera where Ken had been stationed during the 60’s. Built in the 50’s and closed in the 80’s it was a small submarine and missile tracking station used to track Soviet subs in the Atlantic and missiles launched from Cape Canaveral. All the buildings were there but crumbling and overgrown with vegetation. The most unique feature that was still discernible was a water collection facility used to collect rainwater for use as the sole supply of water since other technologies for desalination hadn’t been available. The water was collected from pavement on the side of a hill and funneled into a holding area from where it was pumped into storage tanks. But the best feature was an absolutely beautiful unspoiled beach that ran for miles in either direction complete with the famous Eleuthera pink sand.

A look down from the top of the Glass Window.

Walking on the beach at the old USNAVFAC Eleuthera.

Linda deciding on a lunch selection at the Buccaneer Club.

Our waitress was kind enough to take our picture after lunch.

After exploring the ruins we continued on into Governor’s Harbor. A picturesque and quaint Bahamian town that was the first Capital of the Bahamas with very beautiful colonial style homes and farms. We stopped for lunch at the Buccaneer Club that is a mostly outdoor restaurant under lush canopy and a mix of carib and Bahamian style food. After lunch and on the way back we stopped just outside Governor’s Harbor at the Marriott French Leave Resort where we spent a few nights on a mooring last year. With another gorgeous day we enjoyed the spectacular scenery with a cold beer while sitting overlooking the harbor.

View from the deck at French Leave resort.  

Our final stop was at the roadside fruit stand where we stopped last year to buy some locally grown fresh produce. We were disappointed that they had no bananas or papayas because the trees had been damaged by Hurricane Mathew. But herbs and vegetables are all organically grown in their fields right by the side of the road.

So we spent a long but wonderful day with our friends seeing some wonderful sights and enjoying a beautiful day.

Sunset after a long day.

Sunday the weather began to deteriorate with an increase in the winds. Along with Ken and Sarah we rented a golf cart and drove out to the Sandbar for brunch and toured around to some of the scenic spots on the island. We ended up at Buddha’s for internet and a beer to see the end of the playoff football games.

The south coast of Russell Island by Spanish Wells with the building wind and surf.

Monday we saw the frontal passage with sustained high winds and thunderstorms passing through and stayed on the boat to ride it out. With the forecast we had secured the dinghy and really didn’t want to be out in the high winds and rain. So with the storm gone we start moving to Nassau. Back out to Royal Island for a night on anchor, then sail to Nassau with a night on anchor and then into the Nassau Harbor Club to pick up our friends flying in for 2 weeks.

The storms that passed over us on Monday. 

Spanish Wells and Eleuthera are beautiful islands with wonderful people and a very nice stop between the Abacos and Nassau. Of course Nassau is only a waypoint on the route south.