2 months back in the First Wrold

The jungle road. 

The transition from the Rio back to the States is more than just a change in location. In some respects it is sad, some respects happy but mostly just an adjustment to life in a different jungle. The jungle we've known in the Rio for the past 3 summers has been simpler, way less expensive and in many respects more fun than the life we revisit when we return to the States. We miss our family and friends and cherish the chances to visit them when we can.

Just off the plane and we addressed about 40 members of our sailing club HHSA. Here Linda is discussing provisioning.

Often in the early days of cruising when the plane left the runway I felt like I did years ago when being airlifted out of a military exercise leaving jungle behind to return to modern life as we knew it. Now, going back to the boat wherever it is means going home.

Lunch with my oldest son Justin at the General Sutter Inn, Lititz, PA.

Normally we left the Rio by flying from the airport in San Pedro Sula, Honduras. Flights were usually cheaper, the airport less hassle and the time getting there was half of what it took to go to Guatemala City so we could avoid needing to stay overnight in a hotel like most people did that flew

Lunch with college classmate Cliff Trumbo and his lovely wife Missy and Chris Edwards, wonderful wife to our late classmate Joe Edwards (RIP).

from the City. However, this time we opted to fly from the City because we knew that we had been in Honduras for the limit of 90 days and then several weeks in Guatemala. That would raise an issue at the border and Honduras Immigration might keep us from entering. So we booked our flights from the City. Although as it turned out we did check into Belize for enough time that there would have been no issue.

Lunch with my high school classmate Ed Fasnacht and his lovely wife Marge at El Serrano's in Lancaster. 

Our scheduled departure from the City was early afternoon but Otto our driver wanted to be sure we got there on time and met us at 0330 in the morning for the 6 hour trip to the City. At that time of day the trip can usually be completed in 6 hours and we arrived at the airport by 1000 having only a few hours sleep and no breakfast.

Picturesque Boothbay Harbor Maine site of the biennieal Island Packet Rendezvous.

The Guatemala City airport is big. Not on the scale of Kennedy or O'Hare but large enough to make navigating a challenge. To enhance security the public is not allowed in the airport public areas. Throngs of people surround the entry door and guards check passports of entrants. Once inside a cavernous room lined with airline ticket counters (most of which aren't open) make carrying baggage an exercise in fitness looking for the appropriate airline ticket counter. Since many of the airliines have only 1 or 2 flights a day many of the counters are closed so finding the right counter is interesting sorting through the name boards posted over each space.

Looking out at the approach to Boothbay Harbor.

After a reconnaissance we found the American Airlines counter and maneuvered our bags to it and checked in. Since we had time to kill we wanted something to eat but the options outside the secure area were limited so we checked our bags and after freshening up a little proceeded through the security zone. Once inside a semblance of airport normality returned replete with the usual array of duty free shops, restaurants and gate lounges.

Views of John and Susie's river in West Bath, Maine.

The remainder of the trip was largely uneventful and we ultimately arrived at our hotel in the DC area after midnight ending a 22 hour day of travel. The first thing we did was put on the heat in our hotel room. It was July in DC and we were freezing.

With With John Knowles at their home in Maine. Missed Susie.

Now began weeks of running to appointments, shopping for needed stores, visiting family and friends, shipping parts back to the tropics and getting it all done in a short period of time. So we jammed 3 months worth of work into 2 months.

Met up with former dockmates from Marathon, Jim and Lanny Dixon outside Gloucester, MA.

The very first order of business we needed to complete was submitting for new passports. Our current documents expired in October and we needed new passports to return to Guatemala in September so after getting our rental car we went to a Walgreens drugstore for pictures and then the post office to mail off our renewal applications so that we would get them hopefully while we were in Florida in several weeks.

Lunch with an old college roomate Stan Greenwood in Boston.

Often we have rented cars off airport because we have found them to be much cheaper. As I was pricing them this time I found an offsite rental for Enterprise to be about $1000 less by renting off-site on a 6 week rental. Subtracting our $70 Uber ride to the hotel it was still a good deal.

Dinner with a former coworker of Linda's, Toby Schwartz and her husband, Gary, in Bethesda, MD.

Our first engagement was to give a presentation to our sailing club on Friday night about what we were doing. We had a very fun evening the second night after we arrived about our 5 years of cruising with about 40 of our old friends in attendance and an abundance of conversation and commentary. The evening ran late as we talked about our trips but we tried to hustle off as we needed to drive north to Pennsylvania for several days with family and old friends.

Lunch at Ava's Pizzeria and Wine Bar, St. Michael's, MD with Seth on our trip to Oxford Boatyard.

After our brief visit to Pennsylvania we returned to DC for one night for medical appointments after which we headed to Maine for the biennial Island Packet Rendezvous. A large commitment of time but the advice, guidance and insight from probably the best resource on Island Packet yachts in Norm Pierce is worth it. Hearing him is worth more than the price of admission.  On the return trip we got to visit our former buddy boat John (without Susie) Knowles at their home in West Bath, Maine, a former college roommate Stan Greenwood in Boston and a stop at Defender Industries in Connecticut before landing back in DC.

Sunday Brunch with friends Dale Eager and MG at Eastport Yacht Club. Dale and I go as far back as Kindergarten.

We had about a week in the DC area staying at the beautiful Spa Creek home of our old friends Al and Trish Del Negro while we tended to medical appointments and shopped for stores to send back to our boat. Then again we were off in a flash to Florida.

Sunday night dinner with our former across-the-street neighbors John and Robin Clark.

Most people view going to Florida in August as a trip into a steaming cauldron but to us it was finally a chance to warm-up. We are probably the only people in a hotel room in August in Florida with the heat on. When we went into the rooms the air-conditioning was set at 60 or 65 and we put on the heat to raise it to about 75.

Mini-golfing with youngest grandson Hunter. Of course somebody has to show off.

We spent about 2 weeks in all in Florida visiting my daughter Kirsten and her kids, visiting our belongings in storage, retrieving our mail and visiting other friends. Before we left Florida we packed and shipped over 100 lbs of stores to a forwarder in Miami who would ship to Roatan where we would pick-up the stores later in the Fall before leaving for Providencia.

Lunch in Melbourne, FL with former work colleague George Nippell and his wonderful wife Nancy.

Before we left Amekaya in the Rio we built spreadsheets of stores we needed to buy for food or repair parts giving us a map of things to buy. We identified those items that we needed immediately when we returned and those we could use later. It was that last list that we shipped to Roatan.

At the South Beach Bar and Grill on Boca Grande, Cay in Charlotte Harbor, FL.

Tracking supplies and material is one of the biggest challenges for liveaboard cruising. People that cruise only 5-6 months don't have as much concern but we need to provide for 12 months of subsistence and repairs. Every scheduled maintenance and every unscheduled replacement. Health related items are a big concern because many required items while available many places in the US a wide array of health supplements are not available in many of the places we get to.

College classmate Jack Andreas and his lovely wife Dora who put up with us for a couple nights in their beautiful Punta Gorda home.

After our Florida trip and shipping off our goods we returned to the DC area for about another week of medical appointments and more shopping as focus turned more to what we needed to take back with us. We also changed our return flight from Guatemala City to San Pedro Sula, Honduras and upgraded to First Class. We did this for several reasons.  First, the trip back to the Rio is shorter from

Back with grandson Hunter and Dad making bison burgers.

SAP. Second, we felt more confidence getting all of our bags through customs in SAP without any duties. But, upgrading to First Class we were able to get 3 free checked bags each with up to 70 lbs in each bag. That raised our allowable return from 200# of checked luggage to almost 500# of checked luggage. We also bought 2 wine shipping cases that count as baggage but will enable us to bring some California wine and some premium rum that we can't get in our usual haunts. So much for our work.

Bowling with grandsons Ethan and Hunter.

After our week in DC it was time to hit the road again. This time to San Antonio, Texas. In the past when we traveled to San Antonio it was to visit with one of my sons and his family. But, this year the mission changed. My son, Jeremy, would only be around for a couple days as he was heading to

Our stuff ready to be shipped to Roatan

Hawaii for a conference but we couldn't really change our plans since we had to get to Florida when we did. But, our good friends on Island Girl, Bert and Dorothy had just moved into their beautiful new home just 15 minutes up the road in New Braunfels, TX so we got to visit with them. Linda's

Dinner in Houston with college friend Lou Cioletti and his beautiful wife Mary.

step-nephew David in Houston announced his engagement but we knew we would miss the wedding so we arranged to meet him and his lovely fiance while in Houston. We also were able to have the time to visit with a college friend Lou Cioletti who I haven't seen since a reunion 15 years ago.

Dinner in Houston with Linda's nephews Joseph and David to meet Davids fiancee Zuly.
But, the conclusion of our trip would be a visit to my grandson Alex who just started his grad program at Texas A&M. So, it looks like Texas will be a long stopover during our trips north in the future.

 Granddaughter Abby and her brother grandson Jared.

 Dinner with grandson Alex at Texas A&M.

 Lunch with boater friends Bert & Dorothy at the Grist Mill in Gruene, TX.

After returning to the DC area from Texas we spent the next few days in medical appointments, shopping and visiting with friends including one last trip to Lancaster to visit my sister, son and some college classmates that drove in to get together. Then as quickly as we arrived we left again and drove to Chicago.

College classmates Mike Campbell and Cliff Trumbo and their beautiful wives Hannah and Missy.

Our last road trip to Chicago was to visit family and friends but was timed to coincide with Linda's 50 year High School reunion. We would be there for less than a week but we got to spend an

Breakfast just before we left for Chicago with boating friends Scott and Noi Neuman at Chick & Ruth's in Annapolis.

afternoon with Linda's sister and an evening with one of her nieces. We were able to stay with our good friends Sunny and Ralph Hernandez in their beautiful home in the far west suburbs. At the high school reunion Linda was able to renew old acquaintances as we found some old friends that also sailed and many friends intrigued by our life.

Lunch at the Lemongrass in Annapolis with our hostess Trish Creevy and very old and dear sialing buddies Hank and Lil Chalkley.

Now all that remains is to pack and board our plane home to Guatemala.

Pizza dinner at Lou Malnati's in Schaumburg, IL with Linda's sister Ruth and Jerry.

A very quick 2 months that was elongated by staying in 2 dozen different places, driving over 10,000 miles 3 different rental cars, 8 flights, dozens of friends, shipping hundreds of pounds, packing even

Our good friends and hosts Ralph and Sunny Hernandez who put up with us for a week in Chicago area. 

more and all to sustain our wonderful life afloat. We were able to buy all we needed to sustain us for at least the next twelve months of travel including on to Panama.

Dinner our next to last night at the Boatyard in Annapolis with our hosts Al and Trish and another couple of dear old friends Marty and Susie Diamond.

Much work to do when we return to the Rio before our trip to Spain and then return to prep for heading south.

Last dinner in the States at an old favorite restaurant, Galae Thai.

Our next report will be our trip to Spain followed by all our work and prep to leave the Rio/

On board headed home to Guatemala.

Home at last!!!
 

Back to the Rio

Back at the dock in the Rio

After more than 6 months cruising, we’re back in the Rio. Returning here is bittersweet for many reasons. First, it means that our sailing is done for several months after having so much fun with friends around the islands many of whom have gone back to their other lives 




Our marina in the Rio

and some wonderful sails that are fun in themselves. But, going back to the Rio means securing the boat for us being gone from her for several months while we go back and visit family and friends.  On the other hand, just being in the Rio is fun with lots of friends and things to do. The living is easy.

Castillo de San Felipe on an evening Sledgehammer Cruise

People say there is no schedule but there is. Staying out late into the summer was great. Nice steady winds for sailing, uncrowded anchorages, easy access to shore facilities and warm water. But there is only so late we can push the season. Visiting up north we need to be back before it gets cold there which means September. So, to spend enough time there dictates when we have to be back. This year we have the additional challenge of being ready to leave for Panama before the weather changes in the Fall so though we have no schedule there are marks on the calendar we need to honor.

Hiking along the pipeline road

One of the benefits of being in the NW Caribbean is that one can cruise during hurricane season without much worry. If a storm is headed that way it only takes a day to get back to the Rio for protection and once back, there is a high degree of assurance from storm risk. 

Bananas growing in the jungle uncultivated 

Many people cruise in the eastern Carib during hurricane season reasoning that if a storm comes, they’ll just sail away from it. That works if the storm follows the forecast. In recent years storms have hit Grenada, brushed the ABC’s and devastated havens in the Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico. Anywhere in the storm box can be a risk.

A nice home along the Rio

We returned to the Rio after spending final weeks in Roatan, Utila and Belize. After we left Guanaja we knew there was a countdown clock until we left the Bay Islands and returned to the Rio. We looked at the tide charts and decided that the best tides would be early in the morning of the first days of July so that gave us about a month after we got back to Roatan’s West End although our Honduran visas expired in the middle of June. So how to spend our time?

We sailed to a Cay with a plan to continue but the anchorage was so rough we returned to Placencia. A very confusing evening sky on our sail back to Placencia.

There were several things we wanted to accomplish before leaving Roatan. I wanted to do more diving and take the Self-Reliant Diver course from Roatan Divers. We also wanted to enjoy for a final time some of the wonderful dining experiences we had. So, we headed back to the West End of Roatan for one final week of diving and fun. Living aboard in the West End of Roatan is just easy. It's very inexpensive, diving is close and pretty much anything you want is available. We stayed there for a week before we went further west to Utila.

A squall line moves into Utila. Winds got to over 40kts and torrential rain for about an hour.

I was able to do some dives with friends, but the highlight of the week was the Personally Reliant Diver course I took. The course is designed to increase confidence through training to deal with contingencies that normally could be handled with a partner. The course is probably the most challenging dive course I've taken so far. Key requirements identified additional equipment needs, coping without a mask or breathing apparatus at depth and navigating underwater. It took 5 dives over 3 days as we had to reestablish buoyancy that was distorted with an extra tank and the additional gear.

Entertainment for our last night in Roatan.


Our last night in Roatan we enjoyed a final trip to Ibigari for a wonderful meal.


After our last week in Roatan we headed to Utila. By the time we left Roatan pretty much all our friends had already gone back to the Rio. We were late leaving the Rio in January because we were waiting for our batteries and last year we had a short cruising time as we had to go back for Linda’s surgery. When we left Roatan for Utiila there was a nice wind dead behind us that allowed us to sail part-way until it died as we approached Utila so we motored the rest of the way.

Another night of Tapas at Mango Tango

Since we had to leave the Bay Islands on 15 June or seek an extension of our visas we considered our options that would get us to our preferred time to cross the Rio delta on or about 2 July. The weather outlook going forward was for heavy winds and high seas. But we really wanted to try and reach Lighthouse or Glover’s Reef in Belize on a downwind approach. So, looking at our weather there appeared to be no point in waiting and hope for the best.

A very late lobster dinner with our friends Ron and Terri Churchill from Namaste

When we left Utila the winds in the harbor were blowing in the low 20’s as forecast. Since there wasn’t much shelter from the winds, we expected conditions outside the harbor to be similar. But when we got out the winds were blowing in the 30’s and as we turned to try to go upwind the waves were breaking over the bow. The waves were big and fast and to sail into them would have required a high reach and lot of pounding to get up the east side of Utila to make Lighthouse on a good angle. Facing the prospects of a beat we opted to turn and run downwind and go around Utila to the west and head into South Water Cay in Belize.

Dinner at Rick's Cafe, one of our favorite places in Placencia. A real Club Sandwich.

Rounding Utila to the south and west is challenging. Rounding the island in that area in the past boats have reported attacks and fears of attacks along with the many reefs and shoals in the area. We managed to stay in deep water missing the reefs and had no sighting of any threats. Once around Utila we got on a broad reach with just the mainsail that took us all the way to South Water Cay in Belize overnight. Instead of the 20-25 kts as forecasted much of the wind was in the 30’s with periods in the 40’s. Seas continued fast and steep with waves breaking into the cockpit from behind. We dropped our enclosures that helped keep us dry. 

 
Belize ho off port bow.

Overnight we saw lightning all around us on shore. There were storms in Honduras and Belize with an interesting light show as we were far away. Day began very early with the first light coming just after 0400 and as the sun came up the lightening dissipated and the winds dropped to the 20’s. We pulled out the jib and sailed up to the cut we left 3 months earlier heading to Utila. We pulled in the sails to go through the reef and followed our waypoints that we made when we left and had the anchor down about 0930 had breakfast and went to bed.

Our last morning in Honduras. The view from Utila looking at the mainland.

Over the night we didin’t sleep much switching on and off to take brief naps as the conditions made real sleeping difficult. But, once behind the reef it was just a gentle rocking and we went right off to sleep. We didn’t make the atolls, but this was still a nice place. I had already arranged to do some diving on Lighthouse Reef but that also was lost. But, we were able to sail the entire way from our anchorage in Utila to the cut in Belize with no power issues. Often the overnight load of the house circuits, the instruments, radar and the autohelm drain the batteries before sunup but with the wind we had we were able to maintain enough power to keep it all going.  Even on a downwind sail.

Sunset at South Water Cay

At South Water Cay after our nap we did some snorkeling to enjoy the reef and the critters living there. The next morning we were eating our breakfast and a boat pulled in to anchor and on closer inspection it was our friends and dock mates on ProfASea who we had last seen on Guanaja.  After some snorkeling we got together for happy hour on shore and watched Claudette’s son fly a drone around the island. He is a professional action photographer and got some excellent footage of our boats.  He even has one flying through our rigging.

The gelato offerings at Tutti Frutti our favorite place in Placencia.

The next two weeks in Belize consisted of another trip to the Pelicans and then Belize. Lobster season just reopened so lobster was on the menu everywhere. Placencia had its annual Lobsterfest and was quite the party. 

The watermelon eating contest at Lobsterfest that our favorite bartender won.

Placencia in the rearview mirror

On 1 July we checked out of Belize and sailed back to Cabo Tres Puntas with 20 kts of wind dead behind us. We made it to the anchorage before dark and had a quiet night. Just after sunrise the morning of 2 July we pulled up the anchor and headed to Livingston. We got in by 0700 and had to wait for the offices to open.  We completed or processing by 1100 and headed up the river which was nice to move upstream before the winds filled in which make the anchorage really rough. We got back to our slip about 1400 and just chilled for the rest of the day.

The walk through the little village of Esmeralda

The next morning work began. Over the next couple weeks we completed a lot of work including major routine services on the engine and generator. Got dinghy repairs and retrieved our spare outboard from the Yamaha dealer where we had left it in January 

Dinner our last night in the Rio at Dreamcatchers

needing parts. They were able to get the parts, repair it and it has been running great. We keep the spare in a locker in case something happens to our primary outboard. The primary is a 2014 Yamaha 15 hp 2 stroke engine and the spare is a 2000 Mercury 9.9hp 2 stroke. We got a rigging inspection and a new survey for our benefit to address any identified issues.

Tom from Cayo Quemado rigging up the mast doing our rigging inspection.

So here we are now heading back to the States missing our home but looking forward to seeing family and friends before heading back for more cruising.




The pool and bar at Catamaran Hotel and Marina

Heading into the Rio canyon 



Going to the dentist on the Rio