Off to a Cayman holiday

Checking out of Jamiaca was easy and interesting. As it turns out at least 6 boats were leaving the marina the same day so they had to process 6 clearances at the same time. Obviously, something they were not used to. We had to carefully manage our Jamaican money so we had enough to clear everything but not too much that we would be stuck with since . We made one last visit to the market to buy some fresh fruit for the trip and we bought a jerk chicken from the Jamdung Jerk Restaurant down by the market to eat on the trip to Cayman Brac.

Port Antonio to port as we head west.

We were very happy with the cost of the marina for the 3 weeks we were there. The daily rate per foot was less than $40/night. But the real surprise was the electric cost. We were plugged in using power for all our appliances and heating water. Additionally, we ran the air conditioning each evening to cool off the boat. Unless it was a mistake our electric bill was $16 for 3 weeks. Our total marina bill for the 3 weeks was less than $ 1200. Imagine getting a resort vacation in Jamaica for $400 a week! Additionally, the food, beer and everything was reasonably priced.  The last day I got a haircut for J$1000 or $8 US.

The marina was well protected from wind, wake and swells. I would recommend it to anyone as a great place to stay to visit Jamaica. The only issue is it is a long way to other towns but with all the great things in Port Antonio and Portland Parish it makes the tourist towns seem irrelevant.

So with sadness about leaving Port Antonio we got underway at first light about 0530 with great hopes for a smooth passage and the next few weeks in the Cayman Islands. Next stop, Cayman Brac.

From the forecasts we expected light winds from behind us with waves less than a meter and a favorable current. But as we made our way out of the Bay we seemed to be running into an opposing current but the winds were filling in from behind. It looked like storms to the east and fortunately we weren’t going that way.

Looking at the Blue Mountains with clouds around them.

Puzzled by the lack of current and even an opposing current I checked the tides at Georgetown and found that the high tide was at 0600 with a high low tide about 1000 with a low high tide about 1400 with a low low tide about 2000. So it looked like we might be facing an opposing tide until about 2000. To overcome the opposing current we pulled out the jib to see if it could give us a lift. It did. We were running high 4’s to high 6’s and with the sail out we moved up to upper 5’s to high 7 knot range. When the current slacked we actually picked up speed to the low 6’s to the upper 8’s.

About noon the wind filled in and we went to all sail. We were able to sail in the low 6’s to the mid 8’s until about dark. Then the wind died and we pulled in the main but using the jib we were able to keep speed using the engine. But as predicted the current changed and we added speed. Our average speed increased and for the next 8 hours we were able to sail between 7-9kts knocking out the miles. Just about sunrise the wind died further and we pulled in the jib.

Sailing into the sunset.

For the remainder of the trip we simply motored running about 7 kts. The apparent wind ranged about 1-2 kts. We made it to Cayman Brac about 1130 and ate a light lunch before landing with Cayman Customs and Immigration at 1300.

Sunrise after a quiet night.

Approaching the Brac.

In-processing in the Caymans was fairly simple. The agents were helpful and friendly welcoming us to the Caymans they explained the process and gave us good advice about where to anchor and things to do on the Brac.

Seems that in this weather pattern a nice sea breeze builds in the afternoon so we were able to sail from our mooring at the Creek wharf where we checked in to a mooring at Scott Bay where we planned to conduct our Cayman Brac adventure.

Downwind sail behind the Brac.

We dinghied down to a very nice jetty where we were able to tie the dinghy and walked over to the Marketplace and got a Digicell Sim Card for the Caymans and bought a few fresh items until the supply barge comes in on Saturday. We dinghied back to the boat to celebrate our arrival in the Caymans and catch-up on our sleep.

Friday we visited the ATM and got some Cayman cash, reserved a rental car for Saturday and made dive plans for Sunday. We then snorkeled the coral heads right around our mooring. Our mooring is in about 30 feet of water and the coral heads grow off the bottom like Christmas trees up to within 10 feet of the surface. The clarity of the water offers spectacular visibility to the reefs, the fish and underwater topography. We dinghied down to the wreck of the M/V Tibbetts which is an old Soviet frigate sunk in about 50-100 feet of water that has turned into a reef. A very great underwater visual.

We picked up out rental car before closing and drove around the island stopping for dinner at the Captain’s Table to enjoy their Cinco de Mayo celebration.

Amekaya from the jetty.

Looks like a good place to go to college.

Finally. Could not find this in the Bahamas or Jamaica.

Nice to be back in what seems like a First World island after months of living in the third world. Well, at least until we really get into the real Third World. So far it seems like the island is a lot like the Bahamas but still rustic. Prices are close to the Bahamas which is painful after Jamaica and there is no produce but the scenery is beautiful.

For years I’ve heard about the great diving and scenery in the little Caymans and now we’re here to see it. Then off to Grand Cayman and at the end of this month on to Guatemala for our summer.

Looking at the dive boats in Sesinger Bay as the sunsets.

In the land of the sea and sun

Our Jamaican adventure continues so that now we finally have some time to actually do some sightseeing. For much of the past 2 weeks we have been in a summer weather pattern with little wind but daily rain. Some days the rain just comes in at night and other days have rain off and on with some really heavy downpours. We're now looking at weather to sail to the Caymans. Wind appears to be light but later in the week there appears to be some wind coming up with less rain that will get us to the Caymans. Once we get away from Jamaica we should have less rain. The high elevation mountains here cause the moist air to rise, condense and rain. Caymans are flat like the Bahamas where it still rains but not on a daily basis.

A view of the assortment of boats in the marina.

Jamaica is so much different than the Bahamas. For one thing it is one big island rather than many small islands that is one country with one identity. In the Bahamas each island group has its own identity. Fresh fruits and vegetables are plentiful here where they are almost nonexistent in the Bahamas even when the boat comes in. Groceries are available every day of the week here. The geography has great diversity with mountains, waterfalls, rivers and lush rain-forest vegetation. The people here party almost every night with loud music well into the early hours of the morning. It's fun listening to but makes it hard to have a conversation.

View from up the mast when working on a few maintenance tasks.

In the Bahamas most of the cruisers are snowbirds visiting from the US for a few months before returning to their homes or cruising grounds around the US. The marina here in Port Antonio is a real intersection of international sailors going different directions. Some are headed north, some south, some east and like us some west. Most of the boats here have been in the Caribbean for some time. The mix is mostly American and Canadian but also with European and South American boats. Everyone has a different time schedule and comes and goes as they like. With the passage into summer weather is not as big of a factor as in the Bahamas because in the Caribbean the winds are down and so are the seas. The weather factor now is how much rain today.  

My meal at Tree Top Creperie. A Mexican sort of crepe. Very good. Linda had a vegetarian that was really good.

The food here is also very diverse. The most common food of course is jerk chicken, pork or goat with curries a popular second. But many places offer very different and good food selections and it is usually easy to find vegetarian options since Rastafarians are vegetarian. In Kingston the other day we had lunch at a Creperie, Tea Tree Creperie. Certainly not a French restaurant but very good. We also enjoyed an African styled vegetarian restaurant in Hope Bay, Soo Soom Ba  run by an American expatriate where we enjoyed a great lunch. Locally there is a good Italian restaurant, the Italian Job where we enjoyed pizza on one visit and other dishes on another visit. There are so many restaurants here because local folks all try to make a living selling or doing something and many have restaurants or bars.

Linda's meal at Soo Soom Ba. In fact we had the same thing. Curried tofu, salad, beans with rice, a potato ball and the special a black bean/pumpkin/sweet potato stew.

Articles in the local press featuring Sistah P and her cuisine.

Linda and Sistah P.

In preparing for our passage to the Caymans I discovered that I overlooked a set of charts for details of the Caymans. After some queries I was able to order them from a commercial shipping service firm in Kingston and picked them up so we have the charts we need all the way to Guatemala and beyond. Once we get to Guatemala I can review our expected route next year and over the summer order the necessary paper charts. I have the electronic charts for the entire Caribbean.

Friday while we were in Kingston picking up the charts we stopped at the Creperie for lunch on our way to the Bob Marley Museum. We received some shocking news.  Our good friends Michael and Tammy Hetzer with whom we had drinks on our boat and dinner Tuesday night before their Wednesday departure lost their boat on their way to Providencia. We don't yet know details other than that they are alright and now back home in South Carolina. My first thought was that they may have hit a reef. There are numerous reefs, shoals and Cays in the Caribbean. We'll wait to hear the details but it's a blessing they are still alive. Having spent most of my adult life in and around the Army you know to expect that things happen and its the risk we take for what we do. Risk starts when we get out of bed in the morning. But, it's horrible when bad things happen to good people. Hope they come back to sea! After the news we decided to just finish our shopping and head back to Port Antonio.

After dinner with Michael and Tammy Hetzer the night before they left Port Antonio.

We rented a car for a few days and took some time to visit some wonderful sights close by. Portland Parish around Port Antonio is very beautiful. On Wednesday since the rains abated for a few days we did a river raft ride down the Rio Grande. The attraction seems like it had better days. The rafts were made of large bamboo logs spliced together with cross pieces and then a higher section with a seat. Traditionally the rafts were used by farmers or rafters to move produce down the river to waiting boats for delivery to market. In the 19th century a railroad was built around the island and the rafters delivered the produce to the trains for shipment to the port at Kingston for shipping. As trucks gained use the rafters became obsolete. However, when Errol Flynn hung out in Port Antonio he would take his girlfriends for rides on the rafts which then grew to be a big activity in the region. Once cruise ships stopped calling on Port Antonio for bigger ports in Ocho and MontB interest in rafting waned. Now only a few people a day go rafting.

Starting out down the river.

Errol Flynn named this "Lover's Lane."

On Thursday we drove down the eastern coast of the island to another famous attraction, Reach Falls. The road along the coast was not quite as bad as the one through the interior to Kingston but once we turned off on to a side road that road became little more than a lane. But driving back through the narrow often muddy road we saw many iconic scenes. Unfortunately we weren't quick enough with the camera to capture them. Like a farmer coming out of his stand of banana trees holding piles of bananas on his head with one hand and a machete in the other. Back Country Jamaica is astounding. Civilized but raw at the same time.

Looking at the pool above the falls through the foliage.

Looking at the falls through the foliage.

Reach Falls.

Looking downstream.

Looking upstream.

We made it to the Falls and in the parking lot it looked like another past-prime attraction. There were 2 other cars in the parking lot but when we left it was full of buses and vans bringing in people from around the island. We started down the hill and a fellow came up behind us and told us he was our lifeguard/guide. He escorted us to the Falls and explained what was there. He also escorted me up the river through several pools with fast running current and then showed me the trail back. What scenic beauty there is in the rain-forest. This is why we are here.

On the way back from the falls we stopped at Woody's Burgers. This is Woody's backyard.

Inside Woody's lunch room.

Woody's women's wash room.

It's time now to prepare for moving on. Jamaica is wonderful and at some point hopefully we can come back here. There is so much more to see and do but I'm glad we got to spend the time we did. Cruise ship and resort visitors will never get this experience. This is why we're here.

We started getting the boat prepped by changing out the head sail to a much larger one for downwind sailing. I worked the main sail since I hadn't pulled it out since the crash gybe broke our boom, It had numerous wrinkles in it that kept it from coming right out but I worked through them and finally got it out. Finishing preparation we need to work with the government to get our clearance and we will be able to leave.

Amekaya sporting her new headsail.

So, I'm sad to say we're on our way. Won't be back for many a day. My head is down, I'm turning around had to leave a lot of fun in Port Antonio town. My apologies to Harry Belafonte. 

Jamaican Farewell.

Day 10 the Jamaican adventure continues

We continue to make progress on boat repairs but enjoy the ability to just walk out of the marina and buy wonderful fresh fruit and vegetables anywhere along the street. We celebrate each day with a happy hour in the evening and meet new wonderful people everyday along with folks that have been here for a while. This post may seem long but the stories I think are worth telling.

We put off sightseeing until our boat repairs are completed and we have now completed them. The gybe from the autopilot broke the gooseneck toggle on our boom. The gooseneck is the connection between the boom and the mast because in earlier boats their was literally a gooseneck extension that fit down into a holder that allowed the boom to freely swing. On this boat the connection is a cast piece of aluminium that is secured by a vertical pin in the boom and a horizontal pin in the mast making a freely rotating and rising connection to accommodate the angle and direction of sail. Fortunately, it appears nothing more than the toggle broke and the tang for the boom vang was bent.

Heading out to Kingston.

The parts for us to fix the boat arrived in country last week but as usual the dance with the carrier and customs took most of the week before we could actually get the parts to make the repair. The delay was not as bad in Jamaica primarily because we could drive to the port of entry. In Bahamas there was usually a lot of water between us and the clearing customs.

The back road through the mountains.

Getting repair parts from the US into a foreign country is a little bit art and a little bit science. The science is the methodical procedure to get them, the art is figuring out what the process really is. I'm very pleased overall how quickly we were able to complete the repair. We got here late Wednesday; Thursday I tried to find a source of supply; Friday I was able to confirm it and learn availability; over the weekend I took apart everything to determine exactly what was needed; placed the order on Monday and it got shipped Monday; Tuesday it arrived in country and Wednesday I thought I had an idea of what we needed to do to get the parts by Friday. As part of the overall plan I got the Taxpayer Registration Number (TRN) that I was told I would need. Seems that you can't pay taxes in Jamaica unless you have a number. I guess it's like having a social security number in the US. Then here's where the story changes.

I had been told by the marina manager that they would get the paperwork. But, when I called FedEx and spoke with a gentleman who actually really seemed to know what he was talking about (unlike most customer service lines) he said if I had a TRN I could get the paperwork at FedEx and go to customs and clear the item myself which is what I intended to do and made plans to do. Finally, late Thursday the tracking information said the paperwork was available so we had the green light.

The guard rails looking up a valley.

We had planned to go to Kingston, the principal city in Jamaica, the worst spot for security on the island and primary commercial center to retrieve the package and do shopping with another couple, Rick and Lorraine Kwasnicki who were renting a car for a week.  The trip to Kingston over this narrow road was an adventure not for the faint of heart. It was harrowing but beautiful. Looked like West Virginia with palm and banana trees. After issues with getting the car we got a late start and made it to FedEx about 1300.

After some initial conversations it was explained to me the paperwork had been sent to the marina through some bureaucratic way. After some additional conversations it was determined by FedEx that they could replicate the paperwork and I could get the package. Finally about 1500 (the time customs closed) we were able to obtain the package, pay the fees and leave. Success was at hand!

More mountains off in the distance.

Our next order of business was to find the only chandlery in Jamaica to get some marine supplies. Google took us into a residential neighborhood and told us the store was at hand but we saw little that indicated we were at a marine supply business. We investigated and sure enough there was a marine supply store there. At first we thought it probably was not worthwhile to go in but we did and what a shock! We began asking for things and they took us on a tour to where things were and without a doubt it is one of the best stocked marine supply stores I've been in. After finding our items the owner came in and offered us a drink. He has a bar in the store where he serves his customers drinks while they shop. What a great family and a great business. The store has been there for about 40 years and is obviously making it. If you are ever passing this way and need supplies, Durae's Boat Sales and Marine supplies in Kingston, Jamaica is the place to stop. He has everything.

The chandler Mr. Durae in his store with his granddaughter as we sipped Red Stripe.

We then visited a grocery store which was almost like an American grocery and headed home in the dark and rain over the Burma Road.

Saturday with the help of some friends I was able to assemble to boom and we got it back on the mast. The major work was finished. Now all I needed was to pop out some of the old rivets and get a rivet gun that would install the larger rivets needed to secure the hardware being replaced.

The installed gooseneck toggle.

The reassembled rig.

The new tang for attaching a preventer.

Assembling the gooseneck toggle was fairly straightforward and simple. The difficult part was getting all the washers in place on the pin at the mast. I had previously drilled out the old rivets and removed the tang and bale under the boom.

The nutmeg seed with the red wrapping that is the spice Mace.

The Nutmeg tree.

A Soursop tree.

One of the many mango trees.

The marina from the mountain top.

The village and East Harbor.

Sunday looked like it would be another rainy day. The entire past week it rained inches of rain everyday which is not totally unusual in the tropics but is for this time of year. We decided we were going to walk up to the top of the high peak overlooking the town. The road was fairly steep but at the top was an old resort that had been abandoned. As we walked around the back of the overgrown hotel rooms a man came out of the jungle in messy overalls, knee high boots carrying a machete.  He introduced himself. His name was Omar and he was working on his mother's farm just behind the property. He explained some of the history of the resort and pointed out a number of the fruit and nut trees growing around there. He showed us a nutmeg tree and found 2 ripe fruit to open and give us the nutmeg seeds. We had a very pleasant conversation with him and learned a lot of local knowledge.

The local Anglican church here in Port Antonio.

On the way down the hill we picked a red fruit that looked like something we had seen but not sure what it is. Another man was out cutting weeds and we stopped and talked with him a bit and he was happy to talk to us. He explained that the fruit was the Ackee fruit, the national fruit of Jamaica. He told us that usually you pick fruit that has opened because the fruit gives off a poison gas when opened. He used his machete and opened it downwind then peeled out the fruit and explained which part could be eaten but only after being cooked. I wonder how people figured out what was poison and how to deal with it.

The red lining that is on the outside of the nutmeg being dried to turn into the spice Mace.

We walked on back to the marina and relaxed after the wonderful experience walking up the hill. There was no rain and a bunch of us cruisers gathered for happy hour and the sun actually came out for the beginning of a new week.

Our evening happy hour.

Today on Monday I borrowed the rivet gun I needed to install the 1/4" rivets into the tangs and the bale so I could finish up the work. So in a little more than a week I was able to get all the repair parts I needed, the tools I didn't have and complete the repair. Now on to sightseeing and continuing the Jamaican adventure.

This boat, Germania Nova came into the marina today. It is the boat that a British teenage crew member fell from the rigging and died about a week before we got here.