Settled in Emerald Bay near George Town

We left Little Farmer's Cay during the high tide on Saturday morning after an incredible dinner at Ty's Sunset and Beach Grille. We both had the grilled lobster and when they came out they were huge! Probably the biggest lobster tails we've ever seen served with a pile of peas and rice. We actually took some of it home and had it on salad the next day.

The trip to Rudder Cut Cay was less than 10 miles and curved in many different directions so it was really impossible to sail as we were often directly into the wind and around the land the winds shifted so with the current in the cuts and gusts we simply motored the short distance. There were 2 shallow areas that at low tide were less than 5' so we needed to be sure we got through them at the higher tide.

After passing the Galliot Cut where we exited last year we passed Cave Cay which had a marina and a resort and then we came to Musha Cay which is owned by magician David Copperfield where he has a residence and a resort. Then we traversed the shallows behind Rudder Cut Cay and found several other boats already anchored there. So we scouted out for the best remaining place to drop the hook.

When we finally agreed on a spot we came up into the wind as we always do and judged our spot based on the other boats. So I dropped the hook and we started back and I let out the chain. I soon realized that instead of just going back we actually were coming back around and were next to our anchor. When we dropped the hook I thought the current was running north to the cuts we had passed but upon investigation found it running south to the Rudder Cut presenting an interesting dilemma. I put out enough scope and then swam on the anchor and found it set well. But as I assessed where we were relative to the other boats, we would be right on top of another boat which was not swinging as we were.

So we pulled up the anchor and dropped it a little farther downstream. Then we determined we were now to close to the shore depending how we would swing. So we went out away from everyone and everything and dropped the hook. It was deeper there so I let out a lot of chain and swam down to look at the anchor. I found it wedged under a rock but I tried to pull it and it didn't budge so I thought we would try it. We would find out how good it was when the tide turned. The wind was supposed to drop off so we should be ok.

We went off to explore and snorkel. The scenery at Rudder Cut was incredible. What beauties. After snorkeling a small bay looking for the submerged piano we returned to the boat and I snorkeled the reef behind the boat.Wow! Incredible assortment of corals, sponges, reef fish and turtles. Best snorkeling we've found in the Exumas. But the best was yet to come.

While the tide and wind were together we had a quiet uneventful evening but close to midnight when the tide turned it was horrible. Every 15 minutes or so the boat would completely spin around and the hull would cross over the anchor chain with a lot of grinding, jerking and popping. So we stayed up until about 0400 when the wind began to abate and the current slowed and the noise died down. Probably the worst night we've spent on anchor in this boat. A stern anchor might have helped but then we would have had waves pushing against the stern when the current flowed out. We probably could have done that closer to shore where the current was less but then we would have missed the reef off the back of the boat. The full keel on our IP was controlled by the current where the other boats fin keels were less effected.

In the morning I swam under the boat to check for damage and apart from some bottom paint rubbed off did not appear to be any damage.

So we left with the wind and tide together and went out Rudder Cut to George Town with less than 10 kts of wind on our nose. With the tight angle on the wind (5d to port or stbd) and heavy surf we motored to Emerald Bay and made the total trip from anchor to slip in less than 4 hours.

So here we are settled in and time to do more boat work before we fly out on Thursday. Have met lots of other cruisers and getting to know many better. Big joy of cruising is meeting lots of great people.

Just another beautiful day

Since we've been here in the Bahamas we have had a lot of wind, rather cool temperatures with little rain. But we have had some very beautiful days and today was just another one.

We got to the Bahamas just over 3 weeks ago and have had some great sails and some nice sojourns in some very beautiful anchorages. We have worked our way to about the end of the inside passage before jumping out into the Exuma Sound for our trip to George Town. In the Exumas most of the action is on the western side where there is shelter from the east winds. The only issue arises when the wind comes from the west. So far the west winds haven't been strong so all has been good.

Tonight we are anchored just of Little Farmer's Cay where we had a great dinner at Ty's Sunset Bar and Beach Grill. We are able to get their wifi with our booster so we can do email and post blogs. With our booster we have usually been able to have connectivity. The only place we haven't been able to get connected was in the Park and that's because there was nothing there. We haven't quite figured out how to get a Sim card in our Wirie to get the benefit of long-range cell phone connection. We tried to install it in Nassau without success.

Tomorrow we're moving on to Rudder Cut Cay where we've heard there is great snorkeling. So after a night out there we cross out to the Sound and head to George Town for several weeks. We have a slip reserved at Emerald Bay Marina where we have to leave the boat for about a week while we travel back to PA to visit my sister and her husband who has just been diagnosed with pancreatic cancer and is expected to live only a few months more.

So we get in to the marina and work on the boat for a few days and get all of our affairs in order to leave and then for the first time in more than 6 months we will be away from the boat.    

But, tomorrow will be another beautiful day.

Black Point, Exumas while the wind blows

On Sunday March 6 we motored the 7 miles from Big Majors to Black Point. It wouldn't have been that far except we had to go out around Harvey Cay and while going out the wind was light and dead behind us but the wind event was yet to come.

Forecast for this week was and has been fairly high winds all week. Winds have been forecasted to be 15-25 kts almost all week and so far that has been true. We enjoy Black Point so spending several days here is no burden.

When we arrived on Sunday we went ashore to catch up on internet work for the first time in a week. We enjoyed wings and Sands beer at Scorpios a local pub while we updated everything internet.

We also met up with some old friends here. We met up with Hayden and Radeen Cochran who are headed north. We also met friends who used to be members of our sailing club who are buddy boating with IP 44 Cloud Nine that we chatted with on the radio Friday. It's amazing how small the world is. Monday night we had dinner with several other IP owners and their friends. As everywhere else we made

new friends.

Other than cleaning we haven't done much in the way of boat work. We expect to get to George Town in several days and stay in Emerald Bay marina for a few days and handle several projects while tied to the dock. Our focus here has been some shopping, exercise, working on the internet and discussing future plans. We have been fortunate to have internet through our booster to an outlet onshore so we have been able to work right from our boat. As much as we enjoy siting at the bar and meeting new folks, working from the boat is cheaper and easier.

Next Fall we want to continue on to the Caribbean so we have begun studying in earnest charts and routing books to find the best plan for doing that. There are only 3 viable ways we see to do that. A straight offshore route from the mid-Atlantic to the Virgin Islands similar to the annual Caribbean 1500. Work down part-way through the Bahamas and then head east with a turn south. Or, work down through the islands and head west through the windward passage to the central and western Caribbean. Lots of people talk about the so-called "thorny path" but that doesn't even seem like a viable route and I wonder why so many people consider going that way.

The "thorny path" looks easy but involves fighting wind and current for hundreds of miles and crossing potentially tragic passages. Not to mention it includes close exposure to Haiti and direct contact to daily stops in the Dominican Republic. All places with serious security risk. So we're considering heading to the western Caribbean first and then working our way back.

But, back to now. The anchorage here has really gotten crowded in the last day or so as lots of boats wait out the blow. Very lively happy hour at Scorpios tonight. We may try to move a little south to another protected anchorage that is more remote although we like having internet here so we'll see what tomorrow brings.

Movin on down the chain

We left Warderick Wells after just one night because we had spent several nights here last year and an impending cold front is poised to come through over the weekend (another weekend another gale) so we wanted to get to a place where we could hide. Even though Warderick Wells would provide great shelter we didn’t want to stay there that long.

So we left our friends Wendy and Diana (who later decided to come too) and planned to head to the Staniel Cay area. We like the anchorage behind Big Majors which is where the famous swimming pigs live.

As we left the anchorage it appeared that we would be motoring the short 20 miles to our new home as the wind was in single digits and the apparent wind only about 30 degrees off the bow. But after motoring most of the way to our first waypoint we had cleared some of the shoals and I could begin to fall off away from the wind. Realizing that without the speed of the engine the apparent wind would increase off but the apparent wind speed would decrease. We had plenty of time to make the anchorage so we pulled out the sails and shut off the engine. We were sailing! As we settled in we had the apparent wind about 50-60 degrees off the bow which is a perfect angle and the wind speed about 10kts and we were doing 4.5-5 kts towing a dinghy. Not too shabby for a boat that most people don’t believe can sail in light wind. The true wind was between 6-8 kts.

We maintained the speed for the entire time. There were a few lulls where we slowed down and a few gusts where we raised a bit but mostly consistent and a very pleasant sail with just a gentle rocking motion and a comfortable breeze. We passed several other boats enjoying the beautiful day.

One of the boats we passed was an Island Packet 45 “Cloud Nine” with whom we chatted a bit and expect that we may seem them again since they will be in the area here for a while longer. Another boat we passed “Spartina” had Claiborne, Maryland as its hailing port. We called them and asked them if they were really from Claiborne and we had a pleasant conversation. We discovered they were. Claiborne is a small town on the Eastern Shore of Maryland on the south side of Eastern Bay just north of St Michael’s, MD. There can’t be more than 50 people in Claiborne. He mentioned that he found 2 other boats in Staniel Cay from Claiborne and they had dinner together. What a small world.

Just before we entered the bay behind Big Majors we passed a large blue-hulled motor yacht. Something over 200’ named Seven Seas. It was anchored just off our waypoint for turning into here. Turns out the boat belongs to Steven Spielberg.

We got the anchor down with the wind from the west which is very unusual for here. As usual our Rocna set very quickly as it usually does. After showering we dinghied into the Staniel Cay Yacht Club for lunch. After we celebrated our arrival we walked around the town a bit and bought a few perishables from the Isles General Store. According to a report we had read in our brief email update the mailboat from last week had not arrived yet and the island was getting down on supplies. But apparently it had because a waitress told us people had gotten supplies.

Today was Saturday and we had no hurry to get up. So we got up gradually and made a Saturday breakfast of eggs. Day started out sunny and warm but got overcast. Probably in anticipation of the front scheduled to come through in the next couple days.

So, before the weather changes we’re moving down the Exuma chain to Black Point Settlement where we can hide from the northern and eastern winds that are supposed to blow beginning Sunday night.

Another day in Paradise

After being on the hook in some of the most beautiful water for 4 nights it was time to move on so we hauled up the anchor and headed further south to Warderick Wells which is the center of the Exumas Land and Sea Park. We called the day before to get on the mooring list and confirmed this morning that we had a mooring so we set out.

IP 420 Amekaya and Eos.

There was a bit of wind between 5-10 kts out of the east and since we were going southeast it would be mostly in front of us. Very quickly we went to sail and with the apparent wind about 13-14 kts at 50 degrees initially we sailed smartly for about an hour. But as we got further south the islands run more to the east so we had to work up as we could. The winds also calmed a bit as we were sailing 45 degrees to the wind and even though we were towing our dinghy we maintained about 50% of the apparent wind speed. The wind was at 110 degrees and we were sailing well at 165 but we needed to be at 140.

So we sailed as long as we could and then headed straight for the cut into the Park. On the west side of the Exuma Cays are lots of shoals, rocks and coral heads so in many cases the approach to the anchorage is long and often twisty through the shallow obstacles and Warderick Wells is no different. Also, many of the approaches have current running in them that can either really help you or slow you down. Running in to Warderick Wells we were fighting current for the couple miles we had to travel to the curve into the Park.

Ironically once we turned into the mooring field crescent the current was flowing in so we went from fighting it to riding it. But going into the mooring field we would have preferred to have some ahead of us than behind us. So we motored in and turned around to come up on our mooring into the current and secured our place for the night.

Warderick Wells mooring field is one of the most spectacular anywhere. At high tide it isn’t so apparent but at low tide the deep water is apparent and the sand in the shallow water stands out making for a blend of colors that is truly spectacular. The water in the channel is deep and swift but it is not really wide.

After reviewing the weather we have decided to move on so we can run to George Town ahead of the next front and ride out some high winds there while we do some work and get caught upon things. On the way we will make some stops and hopefully get our blog up to date. Finally after all the bad weather we are now enjoying our days in Paradise.

  

Sitting in Cruiser Paradise

We got into the Shroud Cay anchorage late on Sunday and after the exciting sail we had we were tired and it was very cool so I really didn’t want to swim out to look at the anchor so we agreed to take a mooring if one was available. We try to patronize the Exumas Land and Sea Park when we can because the mooring fees are reasonable and it is there only source of revenue. When we got close in we saw several open mooring balls so we grabbed one for the night.

A beautiful sunset at anchor.

The night was cool with a nice breeze but we didn’t need heat for the first night in several weeks. The next morning we slept late and enjoyed our usual Sunday morning breakfast of blueberry pancakes with bacon since we didn’t have time to make it on Sunday. Since we were here now there was no schedule so we rested from our journey and all the work we accomplished over the past several months. Just before we sat down to eat the Park Rangers came by and welcomed us to the Park.

After breakfast and cleaning up we dropped off the mooring and anchored not too far away from the mooring with a bright sun shining above. I swam down to check the anchor and found that it had buried itself deeply into the sand bottom. The water was so clear I really didn’t need to go to deep to see it. After getting the anchor set we dropped our inflatable kayak into the water and explored one of the many tidal creeks flowing through this island. Although the wind and water were a little cool we found a beach and I swam a bit until the dropping sun indicated it was time to go.

Tuesday we dinghied up to the northern creek that is passable at high tide with a dinghy and flows all the way out to the ocean and a beautiful beach. After lunch we dinghied to a creek that we had explored last year and on an isolated beach took a refreshing swim.

Wednesday turned out to be the best day we’ve seen in quite a while. It was nearly perfect with lots of sun and warm. Very few clouds cast their shadows and there was no cool wind to chill it off. We used the opportunity to kayak back another creek we had partially explored last year but this time with an incoming tide we paddled several miles back into it. In the clear shallow water we saw lots of fish, some rays and even a small 3’ nurse shark. After lunch we returned to the north beach and this time we saw several turtles, rays lots of fish. We snorkeled around the beach and saw lots of reef fish along the rock ledges under the water.

So we here we are on anchor using solar and wind power to keep our power supplied enjoying the sun and breezes from the trade winds. Tuesday morning a light shower washed the salt off the deck and I went around behind it with recycled water and wiped off the teak and stainless to remove the salt from the trip over. As we are in strict water conservation mode we try to reuse water as often as possible until it’s unusable. More in a later blog about water resources.

This is where we like to be. On our own resources with no schedule whatsoever governed only by the sun, moon and tides. Sun, sand and sea that’s where we plan to be. Truly a cruisers paradise.

Escape from Nassau

As planned we left Nassau on Sunday that would usually be the last day of February (but this is Leap Year) to head to the Exumas. We had lots to do before we left so we got up early and got out and about while things were quiet. We visited Starbucks to do our final internetting before leaving because it could be days or possibly a week before having access and then had a few remaining items to pick up at the Fresh Market.

Once the errands were completed we readied for departure. We left the slip shortly after 1100 which was far later than we intended for the ~50 nm trip to Shroud Cay. Forecast was for winds out of the northeast 15-20 which would be perfect for our trip.

We motored out of the harbor with little traffic. There were 2 small J-22’s sailing about in the good wind but there was little traffic around Nassau. While we were at the marina it was not very full which was probably a function of the bad weather keeping people from making the trip from Florida or the north winds keeping people from heading north. There was one boat that came in on Saturday who had crossed from Florida on Wednesday to Bimini and had just made his way into Nassau. They said that they had really been beaten up in the crossing and Wednesday was supposed to be calmer than Tuesday the day we crossed.

As we cleared the last shoals and coral heads that make the Nassau channel challenging I raised the sails and when we reached the waypoint at Porgee Rock we turned due south and began sailing. The boat jumped in the brisk breeze and very soon we were sailing faster than we were motoring. We set the course for 180 which we would follow through the pass between the 2 large shoals that surround New Providence, the island of Nassau, to the south and east.

Beginning just to the north of the Exuma chain is a shallow bank with numerous coral heads and rocks that run northeast to southwest known as the Yellow Bank. It ends just to the southeast of New Providence. From near that point and running east to west south of the island is the White Bank but there is a gap of about a mile between them that is not really shallow and there are no coral heads near the surface. We’ve never seen less than 15’ through there. The Explorer charts actually have courses that go straight through the Bank but on a rough day we prefer not to go that way because the waves make it difficult to see under the water and the waves also distort the depth when looking for shoals.

So our course took us due south for about 11 miles where we began to turn southeast to meet the route from the west side of New Providence to Norman’s Stake. These are map waypoints plotted by the Explorer charts for safe passage through the shallow and often spiny water of the Bahama Bank. We followed the course southeast until we passed another large Bank and then turned more southerly and straight into the anchorage at Shroud Cay.

For once the wind was as advertised. We had pretty constant 15-20 with occasional up 25 out of the ENE. As we sailed our first leg the wind was anywhere from 80-100 degrees of our course which was perfect for using all 3 sails and we sailed 7.5-8 kts sometimes more with little heeling from the angle of the wind.

After we crossed the Banks and began to turn southeast the wind angle tightened. We were sailing anywhere from 45-60 degrees keeping speed and heeling a little more than pleasantly but Amekaya handled the waves well with good speed. We began bringing in the sails about a mile or two from the anchorage so we could get them secured and get ready for anchoring. Sailing our 45,000 lb home at high speed through the continual chop was exciting.

By the time we got into the anchorage we decided to opt for a mooring instead of anchoring for the night. It would be easier and quicker to get settled and we would anchor on Monday. We were on the mooring ball by 1730. We completed the approximately 50 nm trip from slip to mooring in a few minutes over 6 hours an average of better than 8 kts. Unlike the trip across to the Bahamas we didn’t have any seawater issues. But I found water under the stove that I cleaned up twice. Linda went down to investigate and found our fresh water hand pump was ejecting water across the counter when we hit waves. I had filled the tank up right before we left and with the boat heeling the waves forced the water up and out the pump. We remedied by running some water into containers that we kept for later use. Since we are in a water conservation mode we can’t give up any. More about our water conservation in another article. But had Linda not actually see the water come out I could have working for days trying to solve a problem we didn’t have.

So now after months of travel we are finally in some beautiful islands to enjoy swimming, sailing, kayaking and island exploring in gin clear water.