The Island of Providence was calling

Sunset from El Bight on Guanaja

So we left Roatan on 21 November after a week and motored the thirty miles to Guanaja, We motored because there was little wind except for a squall that blew through. We had wind for 15 minutes in the squall and then it was just rain. We joined three other boats already there and waiting for the other 2 to plan our departure to Providencia.

A rainy voyage over to Guanaja

We left Guanaja on Saturday afternoon 23 November for Providencia but during the two days we were there we talked with others developing our rules of engagement for the trip, topped up with fuel and water, made last minute preparations and had 1 delightful dinner at Mi Casa Too.

Sunset from Mi Casa Too

In planning our passage to Providencia there were many important factors that we analyzed, considered and ultimately used in our travel decision. The two largest were security and weather on top of the usual considerations for passage planning.

Amekaya getting ready to depart

In the Western Caribbean is a large area that is geologically known as the Nicaraguan Rise. It begins in eastern Honduras and extends very far eastward down to northern Costa Rica. The area has many islands, shoals, banks and reefs that can confound navigation through them and because they are

The Fleet leaves El Bight

shallow are abundant in marine life so there are many fisherman working them for pelagic fish, shellfish and whatever else they can catch. These fisherman, often desperate for wealth, form a community of pirates that attack pleasure boats that pass through or near their fishing grounds in hopes of getting drugs, alcohol, weapons or saleable stuff to supplement their income.

The Fleet leaving Guanaja

These modern-day pirates make traversing this area of the Caribbean treacherous for pleasure craft along with the hazards of avoiding the shoals and reefs. To deal with this challenge many boats going to or from the Rio go as far north as the Cayman's and then south to Providencia adding many days to the trip and some boats making that passage report being attacked. Some boats oblivious to the risk simply go through the area. Others develop personal defense strategies like razor wire on board or spraying gasoline they hope to deploy in order to defeat the threat.

Sunset of the first day

We first developed our Caribbean plan over three years ago and knew we needed to make this corner in the northwest Carib to get to Panama. In our long-term plan to circumnavigate the Carib there are 3 difficult passages and this was one of them. We read other accounts and realized there were many issues to consider. Our solution from day one to deal with security was that we would need a group. Traveling in convoys, wagon trains, armadas or whatever has been used for centuries and seemed the appropriate response here as well. Whenever the question of firearms on sailboats come up lots of commentators have visions of firefights between pirates and boaters. As these fishermen are smart enough to attack en masse, if they have weapons, mom and pop on a sailboat will not win. The good news is that they have never attacked groups of boats because even if they come up in 2 or 3 small boats with 5 or 6 men in each boat that is only enough for one boat.

Another of our boats sailing.

Another major concern is weather. The Carib normally has heavy trade winds blowing east to west for a good part of the year. They normally lay down in late spring until early winter. In the Eastern Carib when they come up they're called the Christmas winds because that's when they usually begin. They can come earlier and last longer but once they start going east is tough. Heavy winds and high seas make any eastward travel difficult. So we knew our travel had to be after April and before December. Originally we planned to make the trip in May/June of 2018 but we changed that plan due to Linda's surgery. The next option was Fall of 2019. In the Fall, earlier is better.

Sailing in one of the squalls

Other key considerations included normal passage-making plans such as engine maintenance, rigging, equipping and stores. After returning to the Rio in July, we were busy working these concerns to be sure we and our boat were ready. There are few options along that route in the event of breakdowns. That included installing/replacing with many of the items we bought in the States over the summer that we carried back with us and those we shipped to Roatan that we picked up on the way to our departure point in Guanaja. On the trip from the Rio to Roatan our fuel filter accumulated sludge and water. I cleaned it out and replaced the element but was concerned more might develop on our trip to Providencia. It didn't.

Our friends and former dockmates ProfASea

So after returning from the States in September we focused on completing our equipment readiness, developing a group and looking at weather opportunities. I had actually started polling folks many months earlier that were considering a passage to Providencia from the Rio so I already had the makings of a group although I knew there would be adds and drops to it for various reasons.  I began hosting meetings in October when we got back from Spain to build interest and try to identify the group that would make the journey with us.

Fleetmate DaCapo motorsailing

We also began looking at weather that looked very favorable for going east with low winds and flat seas. There were even potential periods with north and west winds that would also work.

An approaching squall

So now we are in Guanaja with 4 of the 6 boats that shook out to form our flotilla. Weather looked promising for a departure on the 24th and arriving in Providencia the 26th given an assumption of travel rate of 6kts for the trip.

Waypoints of our proposed route and the course we actually traveled. The waypoints marked 245 were where 2 EPIRBS were deployed back in June by a boat that went missing. In reporting they were erroneously identified as being in the Gorda Banks. The Gorda Banks are near our waypoint 255.

We all met and agreed on the basic rules of engagement and conduct as noted. 

1. We planned to depart Sunday at 0600. If the weather was too inclement we may delay until we have improved visibility but we have tracks so we should be able to leave in less than perfect conditions.
2. Intent is to maintain a speed of at least 6 kts through the entire trip. We will have on deck level lights and AIS so the Colombian Coast Guard can track us by satellite. We will sail in a group with a radius of about 1/2nm. No boat should be more than 1 nm from any other at any time.
3. Cost to check in to Providencia is CBP 116,000 or about US$40.
4. In the event of a boat being approached everyone will break off their course and close-in on the attacker. We will contact the CG, make a mayday radio call, take pictures and videos of the attack.
5. Here is a list nicknames to use for the trip We need DaCapo and Exile to provide us their's. Amekaya - Liberty. ProfASea - Buttercup. Tourterelle - Red Tortuga. Two Drfters - Simply Red. We will use these nicknames on the radio instead of boat names and no personal names will be used
6. Waypoints - we will use the waypoints provided but instead of the last one we will head straight for the end of the Providencia channel. The channel is lit and marked so it is approachable in limited visibility.
7. We expect to arrive midday. The preferred anchorage is near Santa Catalina the island to the north. We will contact our agent, meet him onshore and then go to check-in. Cost listed above.
8. The only issues identified are some to do with autopilots and we will all use tracking to heading rather than waypoints to avoid close encounters. But, communicate with boats getting too close to maintain some distance and avoid collisions since we will be sailing close.

One of the keys to the success of a group is mutual support. In the event one boat is attacked everyone has to go to their aid. Attackers have to realize if they attack one boat they attack them all.  Single boats are on their own. It would take a major planning effort by small groups of fishermen to coordinate a simultaneous attack against a group of six boats. Stories abound of buddy boats abandoning their buddies during passages.

Two of the many fishing boats we passed. I believe they were shrimpers.

Another part of the puzzle was analyzing the data. We reviewed all the reported attacks in the area that were listed in the Caribbean Safety and Security Network (CSSN) and found that for all the perception there were only 3 reports of actual boardings going back to 2006 and one was at anchor. All the incidents reported were by single boats and many of the reports were simply "suspicious" activity. It's always important to understand the facts and not the myths.

Waypoints -
                          Guanaja -  N 16.26.000 W 85.51.3
                          1st Waypoint - N 16. 00.130 W  83.55.431
                          2nd Waypoint - N 15.33.8 W 82.54.0
                          3rd Waypoint - N 15.11.9 W 82.11.3
                          4th Waypoint - N 14.14.2 W 81.37.4             
                          Providencia - N 13.24.883 W 81.24.354

Late Friday night our other 2 boats joined us and we planned for another meeting Saturday and a team dinner but that would not happen. Given shifts in the weather we decided to move up our departure time from Sunday to Saturday afternoon. Several of the boats, including us, needed to check out of Honduras so we finished that up and hastily prepared to leave. We also found out with all boats present that one boat could not keep up 6 kts so we dropped our minimum speed to 5 kts.

Another developing squall

When we had to drop our minimum speed that extended the trip from about 50 hours to over 60 hours and changed the arrival and departure weather expectations as well as the time we would be in the crucial area of the trip in the most dangerous area. So we got ready to leave as soon as we could which left us in the middle of trying to prepare food for the trip that now wouldn't happen.

At just about 1500 on Saturday afternoon, 23 November we raised our anchors and headed for Providencia. The first waypoint was about 110 nm east so almost a day away and there is a light wind behind us (probably coming from the mainland) with a northeast swell that on occasion was rough but generally the ride was smooth and gentle. The first day came and went without issue.

One of the chances we got to sail

Overnight we watched the radar intently and tracked the other boats. It was very interesting watching the formation move along the path as people switched positions but for most of the night it made an impressive formation moving along. Anyone seeing it on radar must have wondered what this large object was slowly moving along the coast.

When the first morning came one of the other boats serenaded Linda with happy birthday because Sunday the 24th was her birthday. We've been all kinds of places for birthdays but this was the first time we were at sea and ironic that it was such a momentous crossing.

Weather the second day was similar to the first but we did have some wind to sail and several squalls blew through quickly. Some with wind and some without. The day quickly went to night and during our passage there was little moon as it was nearly new moon.

Catalina Harbor in Providencia

During the overnights the sky often cleared and you could see millions of stars in constellations into eternity. I couldn't help but think about the time of year and the significance of this passage. Remembering Thanksgiving weeks in the past and knowing that all over the US families would be traveling to get together for their holiday. Yet, here we were going through pirate waters expecting danger at every turn. If we made it we would truly have blessings for which to be thankful.

Monday morning came and we approached the Moskito Cays. One of the hotspots along the route and we saw several fishing boats dragging nets and lobster boats laying traps. We were passed by a freighter and a cruise ship heading north so at least there other signs of civilization.

The main port on Providencia

Just like the day before we had some very good sailing opportunities, some squalls that came through and more fishermen. One of our boats decided they wanted to sail faster and left the group although we still weren't to deep-water and they turned off their AIS. Later that afternoon a Colombian Coast Guard helicopter flew over us and looked at the fishing boats.

One of the fishing boats that was dragging a line was close to a couple of our boats but really made no threatening gestures other than trying to get on with their fishing. Shortly after that encounter we were in deep water.

The main drag on Providencia

As night fell a large squall appeared in front of us with just about 60 miles to go. Based on radar it appeared we could get around the north end of it as it was moving southwest so we continued on now in relatively safe water.

Linda woke me from a nap about 2300 and about 30 miles to go. I noticed that wind seemed to be favorable but we were only motoring about 6 kts. I pulled out the main but had it reefed and then the jib and we took off. For the rest of the way to Providencia we were averaging close to 8 kts often hitting 10 kts in the 15-20 kt winds right on the beam. At that speed the miles tick off quickly and we began to see the lights of our destination. The sky above was aglow with constellations and galaxies in every direction.

The Fleet at anchor in the setting sun.

About 10 miles out the Coast Guard called us each to report in and we did. It was more of a welcome to Colombia than official information. With a mile or two to go we pulled in the sails to moderate our speed. Aimed for the channel and followed one of our other boats in because they had been there before.

We got in the channel about 0400 and by 0430 everyone was in and anchored. Our journey was over. We had a beer in the cockpit and went to bed with a great sense of relief. This highly anticipated and worrisome passage was over and we were now free to enjoy cruising in the southwest Caribbean.

The Harbor Square

We slept until almost noon and the Coast Guard appeared to check us in and then an hour later our agent appeared with the appropriate authorities and we were checked in.  That Tuesday night we all met for beers at Big Mamas and toasted our success. Now normal life goes on as we adjust to our new normal after more than 2 years in Guatemala and almost constantly running since leaving the Bay Islands in June. Back to our relaxed cruising lifestyle. 

Morgan's Head in Providencia

If it's Gaudi it must be Barcelona

Casa Batallo, Gracias Blvd, Barcelona. A well known Gaudi.


When we got around to making hotel reservations for Barcelona the rates to stay in the City were very high. Since we were using some of our Marriott points I was looking for any brand Marriott and I found an AC Hotel in the suburb of Sant Cugat. Sant Cugat was right off main highways and a train station close to the hotel and everything looked good so I booked it. It was also the hometwon of Xavier Cugat the famous band leader.

OrganiQ Restaurant, Sant Cugat.

We really enjoyed Sant Cugat. We found a very nice OrganiQ Restaurant for breakfast and the city centre was a typical medieval town. From there it was a very easy drive to Montserrat. When we returned in the evening we also found a very nice place in the City Centre . We learned from some other friends familiar with Sant Cugat that it used to be just a small town outside Barcelona but it has become a very chic community and desirable place to live and work.

Another busy street in Sant Cugat adorned with graffiti. The graffiti is everywhere. 

Our hotel was about a block away from the train station so we of course took the train into downtown Barcelona rather than drive. The cost of the train was less than parking so it was a simple choice. Most of the hotels we stayed in were Marriott hotel brands. Most of the nights we used Marriott points so that somewhat limited our choices but we always seemed to be in a good spot. The AC Hotel in Sant Cugat was a very nice place to be.

The St. Joan train station near our hotel.

As I was saying we took the train into Barcelona on both days since the station was so close. We were in Barcelona the first Monday and Tuesday of our trip. At the station many people got off and on the trains at the station because around our hotel were many office buildings. So people that lived farther out or closer in came to Sant Cugat for work.It was a busy station.

Front exterior of La Pedrera - Casa Milla.

Monday, our first of two days in Barcelona we took the train to the Gracias station because it was nearest our first appointment at Gaudi's La Casa Mila, La Pedrera.  The appointment wasn't until the

Some of the elaborate exterior designs of La Pedrera

afternoon so we took the opportunity to walk around the Gracias neighborhood ogling the shops, cafes, panaderias and streets that make up this very fashionable neighborhood. Ironically, about a week after we were here riots broke out in the Gracias neighborhood by Castelanos protesting against the Spanish government when several separatist leaders were jailed. But, when we were there it was a most pleasant urban neighborhood with interesting sites to us who have been in the jungle for a couple years.

Exterior shots of Gaudi's renovation of Casa Batallo

We stopped at one panaderia for a croissant and to refresh before going to La Pedrera. We had tickets for 1330 so we chilled with a chocolate croissant. About one o'clock we walked over and got in line for our 1330 showing and they did let us in early.

https://www.lapedrera.com/en

La Pedrera was one of Gaudi's last commissions. After this he focused almost entirely on the Basilica of the Sacred Family or in Spanish El Catedral de la Familia Sagrada. The tour of La Casa Mila began with an elevator ride to the roof after checking and getting our audio tours. The roof was

Looking up through the interior courtyard of La Pedrera.

elaborate and featured incredible views of the Gracias neighborhood including the Sagrada Familia.  The tour took us through the superstructure of the building and the original owner's apartment explaining much of Gaudi's style. Not only was Gaudi genius in his construction but his intricacies of design boggle the ability of anyone to comprehend the depth of his detail, the complexities of his insight and the attention to each planar change.

Views of the rooftop of La Pedrera

After being as guady as we could for one day we walked to the La Boqueria Mercado to survey the offerings, find lunch and see as much as we could in one day. In Spain the meal schedule is unlike what most of us have accepted.  Spanish meals consist of a light breakfast before 1000, a big lunch after 1400 until about 1600 and then a light dinner after 2000. Shops are open from 1000-1400 and then 1700-2000. Parking meters work the same way.

Some of the complex models that Gaudi built for construction of La Pedrera.

After about 1 km of walking we found the market and found an incredible vegetarian stand where we bought our lunches. The food was incredible. I had a veggie burrito and Linda had a veggie paella. After that we walked around the market and then went to a bodega to do some wine tasting.

Some of the period furniture in the model apartment of La Pedrera

On the way to the little Bodega we went past the Barcelona Cathedral and along many small streets.  Walking around Barcelona we saw many tourists despite it being the shoulder of the low season so I can hardly imagine how busy it would be in high season. The narrow streets were lined with cafes, tiendas and service vendors until we arrived at the small Bodega we destined for wine tasting.

 

Our "to-go" lunches from the market with a bottle of water

Scenes from inside the market. Everything looked great! 

 A Fruitbar
 

                                   A Meat vendor

 Meats and cheeses

More meats and wine

The quaint bodega, Bodega Maestrazago was just opening at 1700. A small place that you might walk past without noticing but when we walked in it went back quite far. We said we wanted to do

Linda at the Bodega during the wine tasting.

some tastings so we were led to the back where they had some tables and stools and explained their tasting offerings. We tasted them all and had a glass of our favorite and then assembled a few bottles to purchase. At the bodega we met a young American ex-pat that had moved to Menorca and was on

The Barcelona Cathedral.

the mainland to meet a friend for some travel. He had been in Spain for several years and established himself in business. He recommended a couple local wines. We bought our wines and walked to the train station to head back to the hotel.

The Basilica de la Familia Segrada from the roof of La Pedrera.

The next morning we got up and took the train back into Barcelona. Our mission for the day was to see the Basilica de la Segrada Familia (Cathedral of the Sacred Family) another famous Gaudi project
that is still unfinished. From there we were heading on over to the Barcelona Picasso Museum. On

Scenes of La Familia Segrada.

the way we saw many points of interest and stopped into the Chocolate Museum to buy some samples. The dark chocolate we bought was outstanding.

A sidealk cafe we stopped by.                                                                                                                                                                         

The Arc de Triumph

The Rambla mall.

A typical narrow sidestreet.









We stopped at a small cafe for some refreshment and rest on the way to to the museum and did the audio tour/ The Picasso museum like del Prado was very crowded making it challenging to see many of the works up close. But, we took our time and witnessed many of the works of this famous contemporary painter.

The entrance to the Picasso Museum in Barcelona.

When we finished it was time for lunch (about 1530 and we found a nice little vegetarian cafe not far from the museum. We then wandered around this historic area before walking back to the train station for the ride back to Sant Cugat and our hotel.

 Memorial to Pablo Picasso

Entrance to the Organica Born restaurant.

The Cathedral de Cristopher Columbus.

Harbor Plaza

We only spent 2 full days in Barcelona but we saw a lot. There is just so much to do there that even several weeks wouldn't be enough. The people were friendly the food was great and the sights incredible. Hopefully we will get back there again soon. 








Boatshow in Barcelona Harbor