Guanaja and Back

 A small islet on the east end of Roatan that used to have more trees on it.
 
Since getting to Roatan we wanted to sail over to Guanaja, the third major Bay Island. Guanaja is even harder to get to than Utila so it is the least visited of the islands. As a result the scenery is even better and underwater is more pristine.  The island was discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1502

Isla Barbareta on the east end of Roatan.

and was originally known as the Pine Tree island because of all the pine trees covering the lush hills. However, many of those pines were destroyed by Hurricane Mitch in 1998 and are now making a comeback. Columbus also first encountered cacao in Guanaja.

Approaching Guanaja

The island is the remnants of an ancient volcano and also features an underground fresh water aquifer that runs from the mountains in the mainland under the sea and surfaces in Guanaja. When Columbus discovered the island he described it as having sweet fresh water. Unlike many islands in the Carib the water is generously available and free. The island is split by a canal and has many outlying cayes, islets and shoals.

Michael's Rock with the canal across the island on the right.

About 10,000 people live on Guanaja with about 8,000 of them living on a small cay called Bonnaca which was one of the early names of the island although it has had many names. The natives inhabiting it called the island Guanaca but the early English pirates called it Bonaca, Names that still stick in one fashion or another.

Port Royal where we anchored for a night on the way to Guanaja.

Bonnaca Cay is very much like many other island cities. It is crowded and interspersed with alleys and canals that lead to homes and businesses. Like many other crowded third world towns the clamoring and hustling starts when you land. There are people vying to watch your boat, people that will lead you to wherever you want to go, carry things for you or provide almost whatever service you may want. We visited Bonnaca one day with our island host. We didn’t spend much time on that little cay and stayed close to him as everyone knew him and that reduced the hawking.

The main street of Bonnaca.

Back in the US it was Memorial Day weekend and the official start of the summer season. but on Roatan the wind came down for the first time in weeks making it possible to go east. There wasn't much wind so sailing close to the wind would have taken a long time to get to our first stop. On the

Sunset our first night in Mangrove Bight.

way we stopped by a small bay in the east end of Roatan called Port Royal. It was supposedly a base for pirates as the entrance channels are deep and it offers good protection from the winds and seas. Very beautiful spot and we were the only boat in sight. We snorkled a couple of reefs that were interesting. One was a rock that had been heavily eroded underneath where lots of big fish were hiding.

Amekaya anchored in Mangrove Bight with one other boat that lives there.

The next day there was even less wind so the motor to Guanaja was uneventful. The shoals on the East End of Roatan go far offshore and east toward Guanaja. From West End to the southwest tip of Guanaja is over 40 miles. But it is only about 5 miles of open water. We had thought about anchoring in a spot known as Michael's Rock which has excellent snorkeling. But it is exposed and could get very rolly if the swell builds. So we went on to Mangrove Bight.

The Sea Mart store in Mangrove Bight.

We had a waypoint for the entrance to the channel that was supposed to be deep and fairly wide but required visual piloting to go through. Linda took one of our headsets to the bow so we could communicate effectively without yelling. Those headsets have been very helpful in many situations. But before we got to the waypoint she started seeing shoals and after reviewing the charts we went solely by visual because the charts said one thing and she was seeing something different. After a little confusion we got through the entrance and into the nicely protected Bay. We found a nice sand spot to anchor in that wasn't too close to shore so we wouldn't be bothered by bugs.

Having a cold Salva Vida with George in Bonacca.

Shortly after dropping the anchor a small fishing boat came up to us and the Captain welcomed us to Guanaja and offered up some advice about the little town and where to dock our dinghy and offered any assistance he could provide. What a nice but unusual happening. We really felt good about being there, Of course, we locked everything at night anyway. 

Black lava rock by the dock at Clearwater resort.

When we were on our way to Guanaja we debated our agenda. We wanted to dive on the north coast of the island that can only be done in very calm weather and it looked like we would have several very calm days. Our friend Trish and Tom on Double Up told us about a great dive guide in Mangrove Bight named George. Not a lot of guidance on where to find him but we landed on a new island to find a guy named George.  

Our Texas barbecue with our hosts George and Ginger and their friend Jimmy.

So our only order of business on the day we landed was to find the dive shop. We asked the guy on the fishing boat and he pointed to one of the docks and said there was a dive shop there. From looking at pictures on Google Earth the dock he pointed to looked like what we thought was most likely the dock we were looking for. We got in our dinghy and motored over there finding a dive boat. We landed and walked up the path through the jungle and found the dive shop that was closed with nobody there. We walked up the steps to the reasonably nice home on top the hill and found several folks having drinks. George and his wife Ginger walked over, introduced themselves and asked if we would like a drink since it was close to happy hour and they were closed for the holiday (it was Memorial Day back in the States).  We accepted their offer and that was the start of a beautiful friendship.

Watching the sunset as we enjoyed the barbecue.

We spent 4 nights in Mangrove Bight that were probably a highlight of our time in the Bay Islands. George and Ginger had lived in Texas but moved to Guanaja about 20 years ago. Among other things George ran a dive shop in Texas named Clearwater Divers so he named his new place G&G's Clearwater Paradise Resort. The grounds were studded with many kinds of fruit, nut and banana trees that were constantly bearing fruit.

The main road through Mangrove Bight.

Over drinks we discussed our objectives to see some of the great and unspoiled dive sites Guanaja had to offer. Not knowing me, George suggested he would take me on a test dive to see which sites I could handle. We planned for 3 dives and Linda could snorkel and have a party. It was long after sunset when we went home to the boat that first night.

Some of the lush growth around G&G Resort.

The second day we had some confusion around George's schedule but eventually we got on track for a dive in the afternoon. The site wasn't far and it was shallow. It was called Black Rock. This dive was so distinct from any that I had done before. The ancient volcanic rock formed huge black walls that ran from floor to surface with relatively narrow passageways winding through them. It was like walking through an ancient city with its narrow streets but we were swimming and in the caves and caverns schools of fish were hanging out. That night we invited George and Ginger to our boat for happy hour and it was late when they finally left.

Another beautiful sunset with Amekaya in the Bight. Weather was absolutely gorgeous.

The next day was the big event. We were doing two dives, having passed his dive evaluation, and after the dives we were having a Texas-style barbecue on the porch. The first dive was called the Labyrinth because it was an intricate series of swim-throughs, caves, caverns, canyons and over-hangs. Again the dive was relatively shallow so we were able to do 75 minutes of bottom time. The second dive started shallow but we went progressively deeper through coral reef and sand patches counting thirteen stingrays along the way. The coral was pristine with almost no broken, dead or bleached coral anywhere. I'm really sad my underwater camera was broken. That night the barbecue was everything it was hyped to be. Wonderful ribs, beans, and rice. The rib meat pulled right off the bone.

 Street scenes in Bonacca Cay.

Diving in Guanaja is good because so few people go to the island and on the north shore the weather has to be calm to go to the sites so they remain pristine.

Our last day in Mangrove Bight is the day we rode into Bonnaca with George and got to visit the town for a few hours and pick up some provisions. We ended the day and our visit with another happy hour with George and Ginger. The next morning before we left George's dive crew came out to our boat with some of George's Saba bananas for us.

We had better luck navigating the channel going out since we knew which areas on our track to avoid. Once we got out George texted that everyone wanted to see us sailing. So with the wind we had we pulled out the sails and tacked off past the dive sites of a few days earlier and headed to the other side of the island.

Sailing around the north tip of Guanaja.

Our wind didn't last for sailing and we were getting farther out from the island and the swells were increasing. The northeast tip of the island is notoriously rough and even with little wind we had swells crashing onto the boat. We were able to tack back closer in and then once the waves were behind us we moved quickly to the channel and into Bonnaca where we topped off our fuel and water.

By the dock at Graham's Place on Josh's Cay.

We came around to the east side of Guanaja because we wanted to see it and because our dock mates from Catameran Marina back in the Rio were there. Most people that go to Guanaja go to the east side enjoying the protection of the reef and the restaurants that dot that side of the island.

Stingray's swimming by the dock at Graham's Place.

We docked at the Little Cay to top off with fuel and water before heading over to Josh's Cay and rendezvous with ProfASea.  We had dinner with Robert and Claudette catching up for the past 6 months. Saturday they left to go back to Belize, we snorkeled and got ready to head back to the West End.

Rounding the south tip of Guanaja.

Sunday morning the wind was back up again to the upper 20's out of the east and it was bumpy getting out but once we turned southwest the wind and seas were just behind our beam so we took off racing toward Roatan. But the further west we got the lower the wind got and eventually we had to motor back to the West End.

There were few boats in the mooring field and we were now down to 2 weeks in Honduras. We planned to spend 1 of the weeks wrapping up stuff in Roatan and then a week in Utila before leaving to another adventure.

Guanaja in the rearview mirror.

Roatan, come for the diving, stay for the fun

Looking toward the Honduran mainland from Utila.

We really enjoy Utila and always find it hard to leave there. The anchorage in the Bay is excellent if you find a good spot. There is protection from wind and swells from southeast to west. South and west are open but generally winds from those directions are light and the reefs knock down most of the swell. The prevailing winds usually range from southeast to northeast, so it affords good protection. The holding ground consists of a lot of grass and marl. But there are many sand patches that provide excellent holding. We found one our first time here and we keep going back to it and our anchor digs in well. On our return to Utila it held in a squall with winds up to 45 kts with no problem.

At Bush's Fuel Dock topping off fuel and water.

After my long and late day of diving we took a refresh day to get ready to cross to Roatan. My diving class ended with a night dive on Wednesday the 27th so we really couldn't head out Thursday. It’s just over 20 miles upwind between Utila and Roatan but the seas can be rough especially if the wind is up, so we needed to be prepared. Our original plan was to sail to the Cayos Cochinos National Park from Utila but we were encouraged by several friends in Roatan to head over there so we could party together.

A beautiful and clear morning with a nice view of the mountains on the Honduran mainland.


We stopped by the fuel dock at Bush’s to top off with fuel and water because water sources are hard to come by on Roatan. The roughly 20-mile passage to Roatan was uneventful. Wind was very light and of course on our nose so we motored the 3+ hours and were able to find a mooring to tie on to. Then let the party begin.

Ok, we made it. 

When we got to Roatan many of our friends were already there. We started with a huge dinner the night we arrived, and it went on from there. Dinner was at a nice little restaurant known as Dola’s specializing in its Creole Chicken. All the food is good and reasonable. We each buy a half chicken and sides and take home half the chicken for other meals. We also save the bones and make soup. Not to mention the parrots that like french fries.

One of the first days we got there we went to Sundowners for Happy Hour and watch the tourists try to get sunset pictures.

We had not seen our good friends on Double Up, Tom and Trish since we visited them in Puerto Vallarta for Thanksgiving. Tom and Trish are also diving partners for me and over the course of the next 2 months or so we did more than a dozen dives together. We also spent many meals and happy hours together. In addition to being a great friend we all thank Trish for her insight in donating money to the Roatan Marine Park to establish new moorings in the West End for cruising boats in order to protect the reef and the Turtle Grass.

Sun setting off the West End. With the increase in haze no green flashes. 

The Roatan Marine Park has made huge strides in recent years to protect and enhance the barrier reef around the island. Through their efforts the reef has been rejuvenated with lots of new coral growth, fish populations recovering and an abundance of turtles almost everywhere on the reef. Hopefully, the Park's efforts will continue and thrive although many cruisers have been unwilling to support the Park. They fail to make donations for the moorings, they poach shellfish and anchor in the lagoon to "avoid" the obligation to make a donation while they tear up the grass and enjoy the Park's benefits.

One of many dinners at the Beach House with friends. This night it was Double Up, MangoJam and Mikhaya. I think we were celebrating Friday night.

This year an Ocean Cruising Club rally brought many boats to the West End who happily took moorings and failed to donate to the Park. Cruisers with these attitudes are the reason many people resent us. Give so you may receive is an ancient credo. Unfortunately, in our modern world it has been replaced with "take all I can." Sorry for the bit of editorializing but selfish cruisers that view themselves as enlightened are not.

Another great place was Elefante Azul for Thai food. We ate there often and always had an order of their spring rolls.

After spending 2 weeks in Utila we spent most of the next 3 months in Roatan's West End diving and enjoying meals and happy hours with our friends. Dive, lunch, nap, happy hour: became our lifestyle. It’s very easy to let it happen.

Trico Tuesday at Jonesville with live entertainment and specials on food and drink.

On the dock at Jonesville. 

Everyone goes to Roatan for the diving. Roatan is a big island, about 30 miles long and probably 5 miles across at the widest point with a barrier reef around the entire island. It offers lots of wall diving, swim throughs, coral reefs for snorkeling and sand patches with rays and sea horses. Did I

On one trip east a friend got a picture of us as we passed them on a broad reach.

mention the turtles? We did very few dives with seeing at least 1 turtle. They were around the boat everyday. The notable marine life that showed up on most dives included turtles, eagle rays, spotted eagle rays, stingrays, barracuda, tarpon, crabs, lobsters, huge groupers, eels of all sort, puffer fish, stone fish, jacks and an occasional lionfish. Lionfish have been heavily hunted and fed to the eels and groupers. Now all they need to do is learn they can eat them without being speared first.

A dinner at Lotus Restaurant with Double Up and Mikhaya the night before Mikhaya left to take their boat back to the US. 

But we can’t play all the time, so we did spend a week in Jonesville, Marina that gave me a chance to do some boat chores and leave with a full tank of water. Jonesville is farther east on the south side of the island and offers excellent protection and fun places to hang-out. While there I was able to clean the boat with fresh water, service the generator, do lots of other cleaning and enjoy the wonderful life at Trico grill. The time there went faster than we wanted and slightly less productive than hoped. When we're in a marina it's easy to fall into a mindset of doing it later. But later never comes.  

View from our table at Ibigari celebrating Mothers Day with Double Up and MangoJam. 

Mother's Day Brunch under the almond tree.

During the time we were in Roatan I added training and completed 4 additional diving certifications. I completed deep diving, wreck diving, nitrox and self-reliant diving specialties. The self-reliant diving specialty was extremely challenging. The point is to learn how to dive prepared for all known contingencies such as air loss, mask loss, entanglements, surviving at depth and safely returning to the surface. The first big challenge was reestablishing neutral buoyancy with all the additional

Linda and our friend Trish on Big French Cay.

equipment needed including an additional tank. The course consisted of lots of mask changes, breathing changes and navigating through underwater obstacles to return to the boat safely. The final exam consisted of developing a diving plan, executing it and returning to the boat within the designated time with the full amount of reserve air in the primary tank. That’s not as easy as it sounds. The first effort I got back to where the boat was correctly but swam right under it and didn’t see it. But the second time it worked.

On a dive. Photo taken by Ryan Klepper.

In the 3 months we were in the Bay Islands I got to do 50 dives and Linda snorkeled many of them. It's nice having dive shops close by that will fill your tanks and let you rinse your gear in their tubs after your dive. We were lucky enough to have a good relationship with Roatan Divers to do all that and I dove with them and used them for my training. Probably the most complete and professional group on Roatan.

The cove at Big French Cay.


There is so much to do and see on Roatan many cruisers spend their entire season there. There are anchorages and coves along both sides of the island that offer protection and great diving and snorkeling opportunities. For cruisers there is excellent provisioning. There is a local supermarket chain called Eldon’s that offers almost everything most US markets have including an in-store bakery and prepared foods. There are many food items we can’t find anywhere else in Central America but we can find them there. There are fuel docks where gasoline and diesel are available but the great thing besides diving is the nightlife.

Dinner at the Beach House with Trish and Tom along with Erin and Kara from Vela.

Like Utila, Roatan has lots of great bars and restaurants. Because the islands were originally British, almost everyone speaks English, so our nascent Spanish gets little chance for improvement. Although we have had taxi drivers that spoke little or no English and we were able to communicate effectively. Well we got to where we were going and back without an issue.

Having lunch in Roatan and watching our grandson Alex graduate in Wilkes Barre, PA.

Roatan has some petty theft issues. But we kept things secured and didn’t have an issue. We heard from others about items being stolen but in each instance, there was no security. All the people are friendly and helpful making for an enjoyable visit.

Farewell dinner at Ibigari for our friends Mikahya the night before they left to take their boat back to the States to sell it.

Cocktails before dinner at Lotus with Trish, Katie and Linda.

Sort of a farewell dinner at Lotus Restaurant for Trish and Tom heading back to the Rio and we're heading to Guanaja. 

Before we left Roatan we did get a break in the weather to head east to Guanaja for a week before the weather drove us back to the West End. Weather is always an important concern in cruising and the weather this year has been better than last year but in the West End of Roatan north or west winds

Happy hour on Amekaya one Saturday afternoon for homemade Sangria with 14 people. What a fun time. Crews from Amekaya, Double Up L'agniappe,Mikhaya, Moody Mistress, Moondance and Starship II.

are an issue. Twice we rode west winds to go east to avoid getting slammed in the mooring field. But for most of the season the trade winds have been unrelenting. Any winds under 15 kts have been a respite. The West End offers great protection from easterly trade winds so even though it may be blowing 25 kts the anchorage is calm and diving on the reef isn’t uncomfortable.

Port Royal, Roatan on our way to Guanaja.

Since getting to Roatan we wanted to sail over to Guanaja, the third major Bay Island. Guanaja is even harder to get to making it the least visited of the islands so the scenery is even better. Catching a lull in the trades we headed east as our friends Tom and Trish were preparing to go back to the Rio. So with calm winds we headed further east.

Another Roatan Sunset