A view down 5 Avenido through the arch to the Agua Volcano.
We took a week off from boat work for a side trip. I'm going to jump ahead in time and skip over some work details that I will discuss later in another post in order to talk about our visit to colonial Antigua Guatemala. Guatemala is a beautiful country but it has gotten a bad wrap recently in the media as it is being portrayed poorly to build sympathy for supposed refugees seeking asylum when most of the refugees are actually from Honduras and El Salvador.
A clear view of the Agua Volcano.
Guatemala is a country of about 18 million people with a unique cultural identity. Guatemala was inhabited primarily bu Mayans when the Spanish arrived even though their famous empire had long since vanished. Spanish colonial rule that existed from the early 1500's until Spain granted
A view of Guatemala City region.
independence in 1821 established the colony of Guatemala. It covered the territory from Panama into parts of Mexico. The principal city of this region was Guatemala named for the colony. The original principal city was founded near what is now the Agua Volcano but after earthquakes and volcanic eruptions the Spanish moved their City to what is now Antigua. It was later moved to what is now the City of Guatemala in 1773 after earthquakes destroyed the old capitol.
A view of the mountain range on the trip to Antigua.
Antigua Guatemala (pronounced An tee wah Wautemala unlike the island with the same spelling) literally means Old Guatemala because the City was named for the Colony so when the principal city was moved in 1723 they simply referred to the old city as Old Guatemala and the new City of Guatemala. With the balkanization of Central America after independence Antigua faded from importance for many years until it enjoyed a recent renaissance.
The sun setting over a mountain on our way to Antigua.
The city is a like an oasis of beauty among the rugged mountains and volcanoes that make up that region of Guatemala. Most of the buildings date back centuries and have been repurposed many times. While the walled streets appear stark along the cobblestones and narrow sidewalks a gaze through open doors reveals verdant and artistic courtyards trimmed with beautiful woodworkings and classical furnishings. The sights of beautiful jewelry adorning the shops coupled with overwhelming fragrances from the many bakeries and cocinas provide a sensual experience just walking about.
The Cathedral upon our arrival in Antigua.
Antigua Guatemala enjoys many features that attract tourists from around the globe. Even though it is in the tropics the temperature is usually very consistent and moderate. While the sun is hot the temps rarely vary more than a few degrees over the year with highs in the mid 80's and lows in the mid 60's.
Daylight view of the Cathedral from our hotel.
There are many cultural, historic, ecological and religious attractions not to mention it is one of the best "foodie" towns probably in this hemisphere because everything is available, accessible and affordable.
Linda in the garden of the Cafe Condessa where we had breakfast several morning.
Desayuno tipico. Huevos Gualtematecos con frijolitos.
In Antigua one can stay in a 5 star hotel for $100 a night compared to $500 in other places and eat in a top-rated restaurant (including wine) for $80 compared to $200. Many young backpackers pass through here because it is culturally significant and very cheap. There are many UNESCO World Heritage sites here and others within easy traveling distance.
Palace of the Captain General. The Colonial Headquarters in Antigua, Guatemala.
In the Rio is an orphanage foundation called Casa Guatemala that has a travel agency and they have arranged for daily service between Rio Dulce and Antigua. The cost is US$26 per person one way so we bought two fares and traveled to Antigua on Tuesday 6 November. The trip is about 6.5 hours depending on traffic. We left Rio Dulce after 1300 and arrived in the Central Park just after 1930.
The Parque Central center of the City.
After arriving we checked into our hotel. We made a reservation online at the La Sin Ventura. A hostel where we stayed last year at a cost of about US$38 per night. We originally booked for 6 nights although we discussed traveling up to Lake Atitlan for a few nights or going to another hotel. In the end we stayed at the hostel for the 6 nights because the time went by quickly.
Looking in an open doorway.
The Chocolate Factory.
After checking in and dropping our bags we hurried over to Hector's Bistro where we ate last year enjoying each meal we had there. The evening was chilly so we donned light jackets for the walk. Hector's a very small (about 25 seats) but cozy place with the kitchen being the prominent feature. In fact, you have to walk around the walk-in freezer to get to the wash room. Hector's food is excellent and we toasted our arrival with a very nice glass of Spanish Tempranillo wine.
Ruins from the earthquake that caused the Spanish to move the City.
Being unplanned as we are we didn't hit the ground running. We like to get into the groove rather than make an initial ill-planned assault. The first morning we walked to the Cafe Condessa Cafe for breakfast. The food there is outstanding. When we were in Antigua last year we ate breakfast there
Linda by the arch with the volcano in the backgrouond.
The courtyard of the old convent that is now a hotel.
each morning with many of our friends. Most breakfasts on the menu range from US$4-7. They have an entree called Huevos Gualtamatecos which is a comida tipico and very good. It is eggs with tomato and onions served with frijolitos (refried beans) or potatoes and either bread or tortillas along with a jalapeno salsa.
The first day we leisurely strolled round the town assessing options of things we wanted to do and try to plan things that would be fun and reasonable. Among the many hawkers on the street were tour vendors. So we chatted with a few of them to get some ideas of what we might like and then try to figure how we could do them for far less than they were asking. We also shopped for a few items that we needed while were there. We ended our aimless wondering at the Casa de Ron for some very good rum drinks.Antigua features outstanding restaurants and we ate in a few last year but we wanted to try new places as well as revisit the ones we knew. So the first day we stopped for a late lunch at El Viejo Cafe and shared a mixed green salad and a vegetable plate. Both were excellent with tons of fresh veggies with them cooked exactly correct. That evening on the recommendations of some friends we tried Las Palmas and we split a veggie fajita. We missed their music and probably ordered the wrong meal.
Breakfast at Caoba Farms.
For the second day we decided to visit the Caoba Farms, an organic farm just outside of Antigua for breakfast and to see if we could get a tour. We walked the 2 km to the farm and Thursday they had a special on avocado toast of 2 for 1. So we each had their avocado toast with eggs that was just outstanding. After breakfast we walked around a bit and visited there store where they had all sorts of treasures we never see in Rio Dulce. All made from their own production. We inquired about the tour and were told we needed to make arrangements directly with the tour guide and he wasn't there that day. We bought a jar of raw honey with the original beeswax in it and a jar of hot pepper relish made of hot peppers and olive oil that we had seen at some restaurants. We then headed back to town to see what else we could do.
Lunch at La Bruja build your own veggie burger.
On the way back to town we stopped at the Meson Panza Verde to make reservations for Friday night. We had an amazing dinner there last year and knew we needed to eat there again. Friday night they had a Cuban jazz ensemble playing so we made reservations and journeyed on to town. We really wanted to do the tour of the Pacaya Volcano and some of the tour sellers presented that to us for
Hill of the Cross
US$90 which seemed to much for what they were offering. So we asked at our hotel and they said they could get us in a group for US$15 each that included transportation to the Park and a guide. The only other thing we needed to pay was the park entrance of Q50 or about US$6.50. So we booked on for Friday afternoon and was assured we would be back by 1800 but the times just didn't add up. In the interim the guide from Caoba got back to us and we arranged to meet him back at the Farm at 1000 in the morning. So our Friday just got very busy with the Farm tour at 1000, the Volcano tour at 1400 and Dinner at 1930.
A large passion fruit with a praying mantis eating an insect at Caoba Farms.
We then somehow ended up back as the Casa de Ron for a pre-dinner drink and ordered some truffle fries that were good but not as good as others we've had. We ended the night back at the El Viejo Cafe for another of their wonderful salads and went back to our room to get ready for our upcoming busy day.
Friday morning we walked back to Caoba Farm for our tour. Our guide, Louis spoke excellent English and had an excellent understanding of the farm and it's processes. Louis explained that the farm does everything from basics. They make their own compost fertilizer, produce their own seeds
Some of the organic plant beds at Caoba Farms.
and have insect repellent plants growing throughout the gardens. Of unique interest was the house of carnivorous plants which actually aren't native to Guatemala but they use them to control insects which actually was ironic since they cultivate bees and other helpful insects. The Farm produces organic crops that they supply to local restaurants and major buyers along with organic poultry. They have a second farm outside of Antigua where they grow far more produce than in the local one as well as things like blueberries that grow at higher elevations.
While the major commercial growers in Guatemala use chemical pesticides and fertilizers many small farmers grow organically although most not as detailed and technical as Caobo. They just don't spend money on chemicals. As Guatemala is a major food resource to the US they will no doubt increase there role as a source of organic food as well.
Organically grown and cage free chickens.
Tom Turkey looking good right before Thanksgiving!
In the afternoon we took our bus ride to Volcan de Pacaya for what would be an incredible journey. Our tour group had about 7 other people. They all appeared to be young European backpackers. The volcano is located west of Guatemala City and South of Volcano Fuego which had a catastrophic eruption earlier this year. Going to the Park we drove through several of the towns surrounding
The Park Entrance
Guatemala City with the traffic and congestion. When we finally got to the Park it was getting late and we wondered if we could get up and down before dark after the reports of how long it would take to climb. I thought I would try to walk it but we rented a horse for Linda. Linda chose her horse, we
The summit.
Linda getting set on her horse for the ride up.
paid our admission fee and started up the hill. There was a young boy who was trying to rent me his horse although after the first kilometer he finally gave up. By that time I was way in front of the group. Before long they disappeared behind us. My only company was the young local man leading
Our group starting out.
Looking back down.
Linda's horse so we climbed to the first stop where they waited and I continued on. I made it to the next point before they caught up with me. The trail continued along the major lava field that came
Linda on the horse with his owner.
Following the path to Pacaya.
from a 2014 eruption. Since our guide had not arrived the horse handler suggested I only walk ahead about 10 minutes and then wait for everyone. I did and then he with Linda on her horse arrived and we waited for the group that was about 20 mins behind us.
Linda arriving at the summit.
The continuing path into the lava field.
View of the summit.
The hike was about 3km straight up at an angle of about 40-45 degrees. Most was in loose lava dust. The scenery going up was nice and got better the farther up it went. The high point for the hike was about 7,300 ft above sea level. But the actual cone of the volcano was much higher. Walking up higher would have been dangerous with the loose lava rock and active lava flows coming from the cone.
The Lava Store on the summt.
Doing marshmallows in the volcano.
Once the guide arrived he led us to a fissure where we toasted marshmallows in the heat coming out. Kind of fun but with the sun going down the breeze was getting very cold. So we headed back to the trail to begin our descent.
The sun was beginning to set and the sky displayed an immense array of colors playing off the clouds, the other volcanoes and the towns below. The scenery going down was amazing as the trail got darker but the remaining lights became more spectacular. Going down revealed how steep the climb really was.
The sun setting as we came down the volcano.
Night scenes.
We got back to the bus and waited for the rest of the group. It was now apparent we wouldn't make our dinner reservation so we called to make it later. In spite of the traffic congestion we made it back in time for dinner but not in time to shower as we planned. We quickly cleaned up and headed out.
Last year we had an amazing evening with out friends Trish and Tom at Meson Panza Verde so we wanted to try it again. We made reservations for Friday because they had a Cuban jazz ensemble playing that we wanted to hear. After some deliberations we ordered dinner and a bottle of wine
Dinner at Meson Panza Verde and the entertainment.
while we enjoyed the music of the band. The meal was incredible and the band finished before we were ready to leave. We had an amazing dinner at an incredible restaurant, a nice wine and entertainment all for $87. An evening like that in the States would be 2 or 3 times as much.
Saturday we continued our ecotourism by going to Valhalla Macadamia Farm in San Miguel Aduana about a 15 minute ride from Antigua. The farm specializes in growing macadamia nuts organically and like Caoba also had another farm farther from the City where it had larger production and many
Entering the Macadamia Farm
The best pancakes ever.
other crops. But, the specialty we went for was their breakfast. They feature pancakes made with macadamia nut flour and their own organic blueberries covered with pieces of macadamia nuts and
The homegrown machine that removes the outer hull.
Drying the nuts.
macadamia nut butter drizzled over them. They were wonderful. We had a side of frijolitos (refried beans) although they had meats available. After breakfast we had a tour of the farm which featured machinery made by the founder as he built the farm over the past 35 years.
Linda getting her facial with macadamia nut oil.
Riding back in the chicken bus.
Saturday night we went to another great restaurant that we enjoyed last year. Epicure is another well-rated restaurant featuring farm-to-table foods from their own farm and it is also a teaching restaurant run by an American who has setup the business to teach local young people how to run a restaurant.
The food and service are excellent and they feature a much broader selection of foods than many other restaurants. They also have a little store and deli where we found products that are otherwise unavailable in Guatemala.
Our last day we walked around doing some buying of things we wanted to take back to the Rio with us. I bought some Zacapa Rum at the supermarket for about $38 that normally sells for $50. We bought a couple souvenirs and some artisanal chocolate that won't last too long.
Been there, done that, got the t-shirt
We stopped by the Londoner Pub, a "gringo" bar that featured English Pub food, classic rock music and some great entertainment. They had a drink special on Cuba Libre's for about $1.50 so we enjoyed several talking with some other ex-pats while a blues duo performed classic American blues tunes.
The Blues duo at the Londoner.
Since we rarely get Asian food we wanted to try the best rated Asian restaurant for our last night. We went to the Red Koi but the food there was probably the least noteworthy of our trip.
Monday morning we had our normal breakfast at the Cafe Condessa and waited for the bus back to the Rio. We were a little concerned since I called the agent who only spoke Spanish but apparently she completely understood the discussion because the bus showed up on time and took us back to the Rio.
Antigua, Guatemala is not discussed much in the US as a major tourist destination and it should be. As we walked around the City most Americans were young backpackers. Anyone wanting an incredible vacation on an economy budget, Antigua Guatemala should be your destination.
Back home in the Rio on Amekaya.
