The beautiful Rio Dulce.
Our buddy boat, Livin Life started up the river ahead of us from Livingston but we soon passed them as we raced to get into the anchorage before dark. After our tranquil night in Texan Bay we continued up the river to Fronteras with Livin Life getting out ahead of us. When we got near Shell Bay we watched them pull into the fuel dock on AIS so we slowed down to give them a chance to fill up before we arrived. As they left, we tied up at the fuel dock to complete the first task of our return. We pulled into the marina with dock hands motioning for us to back into the dock across from the fuel dock. We learned it wasn't really us they were calling. Another boat backed into our soon-to-be slip to get hauled and then were pulled into the well. While we were fueling and looking at the dock where
The shores of Livingston.
we were going to be berthed another boat came in without permission and tied up in our spot waiting to be hauled out. So when we finished fueling we asked the marina about our berth because they didn't want us sitting at the fuel dock. Deciding not to ask the other boat to leave they let us remain at the fuel dock wasting about 2 hours of valuable time we needed to get our boat put to bed. Finally they left our slip to be hauled out and we got in but by then it was late in the afternoon and we were unable to get any of our outside chores done. As in most of the tropics night falls early so with little more than an hour of daylight the outside tasks would be deferred.
Nothing changed on the street in Fronteras.
Our initial plan was to fly back to the States for 2 months and then fly back after Linda had her surgery. We would come back and spend about 2 months on the boat while she recuperated but then we needed to fly back to the States in late August for medical follow-ups, travel around to visit family and attend my 50th High School reunion scheduled for August. This meant our boat would be in place for about six months so we needed to prepare it for that despite the fact we would be there for part of the time.
The preparation chores included: removing, cleaning and stowing the sails; removing as many outside lines as possible and replacing with messenger lines; covering up as much of the boat and running rigging as possible; prep the dinghy; fill the fuel and water tanks; clean the boat inside and out; service all mechanical equipment; setup the AC air conditioning in the companionway to keep the boat cool and dry; and implement a pest control plan. We needed to do this while we continued living on the boat and packing for our uncertain trip.
We had our cockpit cushions recovered. 2 day turnaround.
Over 2 days I was able to get much of the outside work done, service the engine (the genset had recently been serviced) and Linda started on cleaning the inside of the boat. On the 3rd morning we were at the dock listening to the local cruisers net when our boat was hit by a boat that was trying to get onto the fuel dock. There was no wind or current but somehow the pilot was unable to negotiate his 36' boat to the fuel dock 25' away without hitting us. When we ran out on deck the crew on the other boat was yelling at us in French as if it was our fault for being in their way. This was the second time we were hit while tied to the dock across from the fuel dock. Last year we were hit by a local lancha taking off from the fuel dock. So we asked the marina manager to be tied elsewhere.
On Saturday as our worked continued in earnest there was an opening on another dock and the marina agreed for us to move so we would be away from the fuel dock. When the dock hands arrived to help us I started our engine and while it was warming up it died. After several failed attempts to start the engine we let the dock hands manually move our boat from one dock to the other and get us into our new slip. Quite disgusted I deferred until the next morning to begin an investigation of the engine issue.
The next morning I began looking at the fuel system and the likely culprit appeared when I removed the filters. As I removed the filters the villain was obvious. We had water in our fuel. Not a little water like from condensation but enough that the fuel didn't smell like diesel fuel and looked like milk. I spoke to the marina manager and she suggested I get an independent mechanic that worked around the marina to come look at our boat because clearly we had something wrong with our boat to get that kind of water in the fuel. The marina denied any possibility that it was their fuel. I also contacted a contractor that had the capability to polish the fuel to come by to try and see if we could get the water out.
Our farewell dinner with our friends at Dreamcatchers in the jungle.
With our need to get ready to leave we tried to expedite every action. The mechanic came by early Monday morning and could not find any possible source of contamination from our boat. He even commented about how unusual it was to see an engine compartment as clean as ours. But, he was unwilling to tell the marina that he could find no source of water from our engine or on our boat and it was probably their fuel. Later in the day we began the process of removing the fuel from the tank for polishing with the contractor and in a short while he removed quarts of water. His machine consisted of 2 large water separation filters and even though he got lots of water out much passed through.
Working on the engine.
We pulled out about 2/3rds of the tank for cleaning. Then ran it back through the filters a second time and into the tank. Later that evening we bled the fuel lines and were able to get the engine to at least turnover. But, we decided that the only thing to do was pull out all the fuel the next day, Tuesday and replace it. So the next morning we removed 160 gals of diesel fuel until the tank was completely empty. Then by hand I poured fuel back in through a triple Filter designed to remove water and dirt. I poured in about 30 gals, bled the fuel lines again, changed the filters, bled the lines and we got the engine to run. We ran it for about 20 mins.
Next day, Wednesday, I was able to go back to the fuel dock and refill the tank running all the fuel through a water-fuel separator and motored back into our slip. Over the next few months I will need to continue running the engine and drain off water and dirt changing the filters frequently to restore the fuel to a reliable condition.
Though we were able to fix the problem It cost me almost an entire tank of diesel, time for our mechanics and most importantly our time that we needed to get ready to leave. Meanwhile the marina continues to deny there was anything wrong with its fuel but has no explanation for how it got there other than that I might have added water to the fuel.
Schedules collided as we crashed getting all our chores done getting ready to leave while working the fuel issue because we had a local woman come in on Tuesday to help Linda clean the inside of the boat. So working around the challenges of the fuel issue Linda got done what she could leaving a big portion of the work for after we could close up the engine compartment. But that night we took a break for a few hours and had dinner with several of our friends before we left to come back to the States on Thursday.
Wednesday we wrapped up the cleaning, got the fuel tank filled, packed and did all the last minute stuff we needed to for leaving at 0530 the next morning. So after a lot of stress, scurrying around on last minute details, trying to see friends and packing we finally crashed late Wednesday night with some assurance the engine and the boat should be ok.
After a few hours of sleep we were up, finished packing and closed up the boat. As many boaters know closing the boat is a very sad time. We really hate to be leaving our home to unforseen risks and threats until we return. We really enjoy being onboard our home and really enjoy being in Guatemala. It's tough to leave but it helps knowing we will be back and better for the future.
At 0530 we were waiting and Otto our driver arrived. We have used Otto for going to and from the airport because he is great. A local businessman from Fronteras he shows up early, is very helpful and knows how to provide great customer service. This is our 5th trip with him and we have recommended him to others and we will of course continue to use him.
Our flights back were uneventful although we were able to get upgraded on both of them and try out the new American Flagship Lounge in Miami. But, these amenities did not soften the blow of landing with temperatures in the 30's and getting ready for what's next.
Our next blog article will be about our time in the States. But we would rather be back on the Rio with friends or cruising the Caribbean.
Last sunset in the Rio for a while.
