Wednesday, May 31, 2017
Happy hour Update Wednesday
conditions. The squalls that started this morning continued with periods
of sun and good wind interrupted with rain and winds in the 30's for
brief periods. We had our sails reefed so we could match the speed of
our buddy boat so when the squalls hit there was really nothing for us
to do and we sailed right through them. We're keeping our electronics in
the ovens just in case of lightNext ening.
We are now 137 nm from our waypoint off the south coast of Belize. From
there it is only about 20 miles to Livingston. By morning we should be
very close. Our concern now is pirates so we conferred with our buddy
boat and agreed on security measures we'll employ for the remainder of
the trip. Of course the biggest security is that there are 2 boats and
we will stay close together. Most attacks are on single boats.
We saw a pod of dolphins today for a while playing in our waves.
Ironically we also saw a seagull flying around way out here. Usually the
only things we see flying are Flying FIsh. I threw one off the deck
yesterday.
This is more than our usual 1 or 2 over night passages but once we get
to Rio Dulce we'll be there for 5 months.
Next update sometime around 8. It is sometimes hard to know exactly when
we can update based on what's going on and having a good satellite
connection.
--
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Fwd: Blog Update Morning 2
-------- Forwarded Message --------
Subject: | Blog Update Morning 2 |
---|---|
Date: | Wed, 31 May 2017 07:22:58 -0500 |
From: | ltcme108 <ltcme108@ocens.com> |
To: | ltcme108.amekaya4sea@blogger.com |
We are no more than halfway. We are less than 200 miles from our waypoint off Belize and then 30 miles or so to Livingston, Guatemala. Very challenging evening. Lots of squalls moved through with lightening off in the distance but nothing close. Suspect the storms were over shore areas. This morning it continues overcast with showers that will probably be around most of the day. When the squalls came up we pulled in the sails and secured all our electronics in the oven to protect them from lightening. With our sails in we motored all night because of the risk of severe weather and at night it isn't seen coming. Yesterday in taking down the whisker pole the sail got loose and wrapped around the stay. It caused some issues that we resolved but when we tried to get the sail in last night there were challenges. I was able to resolve them and get the sail in but then we couldn't get it back out. Something to resolve today. We're sailing again with a reefed main and the staysail until I get the jib resolved. Next update sometime about happy hour. -- Sent via OCENSMail satellite email service. www.ocens.com
Blog Update Morning 2
waypoint off Belize and then 30 miles or so to Livingston, Guatemala.
Very challenging evening. Lots of squalls moved through with lightening
off in the distance but nothing close. Suspect the storms were over
shore areas. This morning it continues overcast with showers that will
probably be around most of the day.
When the squalls came up we pulled in the sails and secured all our
electronics in the oven to protect them from lightening. With our sails
in we motored all night because of the risk of severe weather and at
night it isn't seen coming.
Yesterday in taking down the whisker pole the sail got loose and wrapped
around the stay. It caused some issues that we resolved but when we
tried to get the sail in last night there were challenges. I was able to
resolve them and get the sail in but then we couldn't get it back out.
Something to resolve today. We're sailing again with a reefed main and
the staysail until I get the jib resolved.
Next update sometime about happy hour.
--
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Tuesday, May 30, 2017
Progress update 1730 Tuesday
waypoint and are now 160 nm from Cayman Isl. Our next waypoint is 290 nm
at aheading of 246 just off the coast of Bellize. From there it is about
30nm to Livingston, Guatemala where we check in.
Wind has built a bit and the swells are more behind us and bigger but
less quick and rolly. We cntinue to mostly sail with a few small
interludes of motoring when needed. The wind is supposed to build so
hopefully we can sail all or most of the rest of the way there.
This morning was a bit squally and we saw one cloud that had a
waterspout near us but dissipated before it got to us. Pictures on the
blog when we can post via internet.
Next update tomorrow morning probably about 0800.
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U[date 1st Morning
from almost dead behind us and small fast chop almost on our beam. Sun
is shining nicely and should be another warm day but with cool ocean
breezes. We caught up with our buddy boat and we're both doing about the
same speed in these conditions. Still debating about using the spinnaker.
The chop overnight made it tough sleeping but we'll nap and stay rested
and hydrated.
Saw several cargo ships and tankers overnigt passing in different
directions.
All is well so far. Next update about 1700.
To contact us I get my regular gmail email or you can email us at
ltcme108@ocens.com
--
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Monday, May 29, 2017
Update 1905 29 May
lighter wind but we're sailing averaging 5-6 kts with fair amount of
fast small chop coming almost on our beam. Sun has set and it is
beginning to cool off. Beautiful sailing today with a nice breeze and
mostly sunny. Wind is behind the beam so we have been adjusting our
heading to keep the wind from getting too far behind us. Maybe tomorrow
we'll run the spinnaker although the wind is supposed to go more
southerly so we might get a beam reach for a while.
Spoke to our buddy boat earlier and they are about 8 miles ahead of us
having gotten out before we did. We're about 40 miles from the channel
out of North Sound with about 113 mi to our next waypoint which is about
1/3rd of the way to Guatemala. We could have done a rhumb line from
Cayman to Guatemala but there are shoals along the way we want to avoid
so I made waypoints by the hazards to be sure we were far enough away
when we passed and wouldn't inadvertently sail through them.
Still hard to believe after all the talking, thinking, planning and
preparing we are underway.
Will post the next update in the morning
-- get a beam reach for a while
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We have left the Cayman
noon. We have turned west and once I finish this post we will be turning
southwest toward Guatemala.
It's hard to believe that after talking about going to Guatemala for a
year it is hard to realize and believe that we are now underway toward
the goal. About 470 miles and we should be there by Thursday afternoon.
Our buddy boat left about an hour before we did and they were outside
George Town and didn't need to go around the Sound as we did.
We really enjoyed Grand Cayman and clearing out this morning was very
easy and we even stopped back by Cayman Spirits and bought another
bottle of Seven Fathoms and the Reserve Coconut rums.
Will try to post next update about 2000 tonight.
--
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Saturday, May 27, 2017
Cayman stayed
Downtown George Town.
Moon rising over the marina.
So much to share.
After our beautiful overnight sail from the little Caymans we had to accommodate the authorities by traveling around to the port for check in. Unlike many countries the Caymans require that you check into Grand Cayman after leaving the little Caymans. Cuba requires that you check in and out of each port with no stops but many islands like the Bahamas provide a Cruising Permit to go wherever you want in the country. But from here we will continue on to Guatemala so we just clear out of here to travel to our next port.
The George Town Yacht Club at Barcadere Marina.
One of the reasons we chose to stay in the Barcadere Marina as we did was because Customs will clear in and out here. That they wouldn't come here was a disappointment but they will clear us out here and after they do we can buy fuel duty free so that will be some amount of discount. Staying here in the marina is very nice and we're right across the dock from our friends on Symbiosis and Tropical Blend. We've gotten very comfortable here. There has been a nice steady breeze during the day to keep it cool. We have our sun covers up to keep the sun's heat off the boat and at night we run the air to make it comfortable for sleeping.
The blue flip flop outside the Margaritaville Resort on Seven Mile Beach.
Having a rental car here has been great. Everything on the island is expensive but the rental cars. We have a full size car for less than $20 a day. Even though the marina has a shuttle, using it with bus or taxi fees would be more than $20 a day for 2 people and less convenient. Having the freedom to move about the island makes so many opportunities available. There is just so much to do here.
The plaza at Camana Bay shopping area.
After being on the hook in the little Caymans for over a week there were some priorities requiring attention. Laundry, food shopping and maintenance were top of the list. The next tier agenda included getting dive gear, doing diving, getting boat supplies, seeing Barefoot Man and enjoying some of the world class activities here.
The bountiful and well-stocked super markets of Grand Cayman. A truly welcome site after the Bahamas and other islands.
After our first day of casually getting about we started doing shopping ventures and picked up our car on Wednesday to help in getting the laundry done. Our days were a mixture of doing errands and chores; socializing with friends; and enjoying the ambiance of this diamond rising from the deepest depths of the sea.
Our friends Serge and Charlotte after lunch at Vivo.
Thursday we had lunch at Vivo at Lighthouse Point, a mostly vegetarian restaurant, with friends Serge and Charlotte from Kuaka who will be buddy-boating with us to Rio Dulce. We met Serge and Charlotte in Port Antonio. They have been cruising for years and are on their way to their home in New Zealand. We're really happy to be sharing this travel leg with them. They have a slower boat than we do but we will adjust our speed so we can stay close together. Especially as we navigate through the Gulf of Honduras and in to Livingston.
Thursday night we did another rum tasting on Tropical Blend. I regretted not having some of my favorite rums there to share. One new one we opened was Seven Fathoms brewed right here on the Cayman Islands and we were all pleasantly surprised. It was an immensely enjoyable evening with our friends as we listened to their "cheesy mix" of songs and enjoyed the multitude of rums.
Our rum tasting at Cayman Spirits. Of course we had to buy some.
Friday we worked in a tour of the Cayman Distilling Company and got to sample all of their products and especially all the rums they produce. Enjoying the rums and the tour was a highlight of our visit. Unlike other distillery tours it was really fun and the rum was great too. Our friend Bahama Bob from Key West was here recently and they sell his book there.
Saturday we drove to the extreme point of the island, Rum Point to grab lunch, swim and snorkel. The houses around the area were amazing and the resort guests made the activities interesting. Rum point is the kind of place where you could really waste away with a rum drink or margarita. But then, that's almost everywhere on this island.
Wreckers Bar at Rum Point.
Saturday night Linda and I went out to Deckers, a very nice restaurant with entertainment. There specialty for the night was all the lobster you can eat for $50. We simply enjoyed the music, a few drinks and the wonderful evening. Celebrating a week in Grand Cayman already.Hard to believe how quickly the time has passed here.
The south coast of Grand Cayman.
Sunday morning we had a buttermilk pancake with blueberries breakfast for the first time in months. It has been since Marsh Harbor that we actually had real buttermilk with real blueberries to enjoy in our Sunday morning breakfast. Amazing that buttermilk is not available everywhere and blueberries are a delicacy in the tropics. Sunday we went with our friends to a locals beach for snorkeling but the water was rough. Like everyplace in the Caymans there is so much to see.
Monday I went out on a dive boat for 2 dives. It was really nice because there were only 2 other divers and our guide. During the first deep water dive we saw a friendly nurse shark and 2 green sea turtles attempting to mate. The underwater scenery in the Caymans continues to impress. I've done 8 dives while here and would have like to do more but with all the time we have it is really limited. Hopefully we can come back here and I can do many more dives. In the fall we will go to Belize and Roatan to do many more dives.
One of the errands we had to do here is to buy a complete set of dive gear. It was one of those things always lurking in the background but here we did it. I now have, a tank, dive computer, dive camera, BCD, regulator and I had to buy a new set of fins because my old ones developed a crack after 12 years. Now if we hook something with the anchor (like we did in Inagua) or have any underwater issue (like bottom cleaning) I can dive on it with enough air to stay down long enough to resolve it. This was one of our large outstanding issues since we moved aboard. In some places I can use the dive gear to catch conch or lobster. So with our time here we moved closer to absolute self-sufficiency.
Tuesday we went to Lighthouse Point with our friends to snorkel the reef and have lunch again at Vivo. The dive site is interesting because it is really set up for a shore dive so it is an easy snorkel because the wall is relatively close to shore. But, Linda and I snorkeled along the shoreline that had extremely interesting and complex draws and canyons that all had colonies and schools of fish in them as well as presenting a compelling seascape. I snorkeled out to the first wall and got to see the Guardian of the Reef Statue that was in about 40' of water. On Tuesday evening working with IP 38
Guardian of the Reef Statue.
owner Steve Elliott we organized a happy hour on his boat up in Governor's Creek with our friends Serge and Charlotte, new friends Dave and Janice on Livin Life to discuss going to Guatemala. We also discussed going to the Margaritaville Resort on Wednesday to see the Barefoot Man. More on that later. As I've said before, we constantly meet old friends and new ones almost everyday.
The Cayman National Gallery.
Thursday was our next big day because Wednesday was election day in Caymans and everything was closed. In the morning Linda and I visited the Cayman National Gallery. Its current content is small because it is so young. Cayman has only had an artist school for a few decades and it was interesting to see the transition of old Cayman to new Cayman as seen through artist's eyes. One of the seminal events in Cayman history was Hurricane Ivan. It is interesting to note we were here one week before it hit so we followed closely the tragedy and it could fully understand the artists commentary. Also on Thursday we drove out to the eastern side of the island and toured the Queen Elizabeth II Botanical Garden that serves to preserve and explain the islands flora and is a preserve for the endangered Blue Iguana that we saw many of in the Gardens.
Scenes from the Botanical Garden.
A traditional Cayman home moved to the Garden from the East End. The house was about 150 yrs old.
One of their rare blue iguanas napping.
A dwarf pineapple. Probably would go good on a cocktail straw.
Miss Botanical Garden.
Thursday night was another one of those really high points of our visit here on Grand Cayman. Regardless of everything else we wanted to see the Barefoot Man perform. Barefoot has been an institution on Grand Cayman for decades. He expanded his territory to the Bahamas with his Nippers Concerts and we saw him there once. The Margaritaville Resort opened recently here and he was supposed to perform there Wednesday night but I guess the party planners didn't get the memo about Election Day here in the Caymans because no alcohol can be served before 1900 and Barefoot was supposed to perform at 1730. They had to cancel but we found out he would be at the Wyndham Reef Resort on Thursday night so we planned to go and we channeled everyone to the Reef Resort.
2 person deep sea submersible exploration vessel on display at Eagle Ray Resort.
Happy hour and dinner at Eagle Ray Resort.
We had 10 people sitting around a large bar table enjoying the Barefoot Man at the Reef Resort. This is the venue that made him and his show as usual did not disappoint. We wanted to buy his latest CD which he had sold out of and what a great guy in chatting with him. So our other key objective on Grand Cayman was achieved! Seeing the Barefoot Man. It's great that he has gotten into the Jimmy Buffett-sphere after all these years. He was performing at Margaritaville Key West last week. Great for him! A Cayman Island original.
Barefoot in concert as seen from the cheap seats.
An after-show selfie with the Cayman Island legend.
Friday night we went to happy hour at Rackams a very cool place down on the George Town waterfront with Steve, Livin Life and 3 other boats that we met for the first time. The cheese curry fries and jerk chicken were fantastic! Most of us at the happy hour are going to Guatemala so we'll see everyone there. Another fantastic night of socializing with cruising sailors.
Most of these folks will be in Rio Dulce with us.
We left the Bahamas just short of 2 months ago. We spent several weeks in Jamaica and now time in the little Caymans and Grand Cayman and we like all of them better than the Bahamas. We don't have the island to island sailing that is nice in the Bahamas but the water is clearer and the underwater scenery greater here in the Caymans. Jamaica is a better place to be than the Bahamas. Here in these islands we also don't have the credit card Captains that charter a boat for a week or two like they do in the BVI that have no regard for the cruising life. It's strangely remarkable when we tell people we live on a boat and sailed here they are almost starstruck because there are so few cruising boats that come this way. So far this has been an incredible passage.
The beach at Rum Point was hard to leave. I could sit here and drink rum all day and never move.
Now we prepare to depart on Monday for Guatemala. We have a friend, Jim Upson, flying in who will help us with our passage. The upcoming passage will be the longest continuous passage we have done. to date although not that much longer than Linda and I have done on our own Once we get to Rio Dulce we will be there for several months to do work on the boat and travel around Central America visiting famous places.
We will do email updates with our progress but the next big update will be once we have settled in Guatemala. Hope everyone enjoys their holiday weekend remembering the sacrifices of brave Americans who defended and continue to defend our great Nation.
Al Lee (Linda's Dad) 1920 - 2017 WWII vet.
Wednesday, May 24, 2017
Test blog by email with more to follow.
I have finally figured out how to post email updates to our blog and it is really simple. So on our 3+ day trip from the Caymans to Guatemala next week I will post updates so friends and family will know where we are and how it is going. Right now the weather looks relatively benign after the forecast over the weekend of a possible tropical storm forming this weekend.
We are having a blast here on Grand Cayman with our friends from Tropical Blend and Symbiosis. I will write more on our blog and post with pictures after this post. Last night, Tuesday night, we drove up to Governor's Creek and had happy hour with 4 other boats that are going to Rio Dulce. Nobody knows exactly when they're going but it looks like we may have 1 boat going with us when we leave probably Monday.
Lots of our friends are ending their journeys for the season. Meanwhile we are still enjoying Grand Cayman and have several weeks of adventure planned in Guatemala before we travel back to the US for several weeks of visits.
More to follow.
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Friday, May 19, 2017
What happened to the Little Island?
Today Grand Cayman has a full-time population of 50,000+ and on any given day at least as many tourists in the hotels, villas and off cruise ships. As one Brac'r described it, it is Miami Beach. Not only has the island recovered but it has prospered at the expense of no longer being a little island. The Brac and Little Cayman pride themselves on being what Grand Cayman used to be.
The beautiful little islands.
On Friday we very sadly returned from Little Cayman to Cayman Brac to clear out with Customs. The Caymans are divided administratively into 2 regions: the sister islands (LC and CB) and Grand Cayman. Foreign boats traveling between the regions need to clear out and in with Customs almost as if they were foreign countries. So we did as required and cleared out with the sister islands and had 24 hours to depart. Our friends on Tropical Blend and Symbiosis left immediately for Grand Cayman. But I was determined to dive on Cayman Brac.
Dinner at the Asian House the last night on Cayman Brac.
The surge in the anchorage was not as bad as when we left and got better overnight. In fact by Saturday morning it was relatively flat. Friday night we did a little bit of shopping and had dinner ashore. But the real treat came Saturday.
When we got back from the dive we had 2 hours to get off our mooring to stay within the 24 hour limit after clearing out so we got the dinghy up, secured the cabin and left. We wanted to stop at a dive mooring by Little Cayman but the wind was blowing nicely and we put up the sails and decided not to test our welcome.
The front end of Mr. Lobster. The camera didn't pick up his entire body.
We left after spending about 10 days on these small islands. When we originally planned to visit the little Caymans we planned a week on each island. We now regret not spending more time on them. They are very beautiful, the diving was great and the people so warm and friendly. Even though they are small islands there was so much to do and see. We definitely need to come back.
We got off the mooring and got the engine warmed up just in time to shut it down. The wind was blowing about 8-12 just behind the beam so it gave us an apparent wind angle of about 80. We were in no hurry because we didn't want to get to the North Sound channel in the dark so we pulled out the sails and took off.
Lots of people think of Island Packets as slow. It is true they are heavy by design and especially when fully loaded for long-term cruising. But, the standard for cruising is to be able to do at least 50% of the apparent wind speed. With 8-10 kts of wind we were sailing 6-7 kts. In fact our ETA kept getting earlier and was about 3 in the morning. The sailing was perfect. A nice comfortable speed, the water was mostly flat, clear sky and nice temperature. Over night we had a nearly full moon.
But, we had to slow down. First I reefed in the jib but the wind picked up so I finally brought it in all the way. We continued nicely getting the ETA back to about 0700 which was manageable. Then about 0500 I called the port security to report being in Cayman waters and request our check in and contrary to our plans, hopes and dreams they told us we needed to come to the Port in George Town and would not clear us in the marina as advertised. That just added 20+ miles to our trip. The wind was now dropping so after about 12 hours of great sailing we had to turn on the engine and motor around the island to the Port for checking in.
Check in was easy because there were no cruise ships in port. So we checked in and then motored all the way back around to the Sound and followed a crooked path to the marina and into a slip. Once tucked in we cleaned the boat, put up the sun covers and met our friends from Symbiosis and Tropical Blend for happy hour at the George Town Yacht Club.
We are staying at the Barcadere Marina which is next to the airport and not far out of downtown George Town. It is collocated with the George Town Yacht Club and shares facilities. The marina facility is in excellent condition, people are all friendly, they have a shuttle and the bar has a nice happy hour.
The Bracadere Marina.
Monday was a holiday so most businesses were closed but we went downtown and walked up along the hotel area on West Bay. Many of the stores were closed for the holiday but there was still lots to see. There is a new Margaritaville Beach Resort, lots of new resort hotels, high price stores and amazing cement prosperity. It is amazing what has happened to the little island. It still resembles what we saw years ago but now it more resembles anyplace but here.
One of the premier shopping districts today.
Sunset on our first day exploring Grand Cayman.
Sunday, May 14, 2017
Wow! So much has happened
Looking east off Cayman Brac toward Jamaica.
In our crash gear with great scenery.