A fast week with lots of travel.

Our night at Worton Creek was very pleasant with a steady wind giving us some wind power and a gentle rocking motion to the evening. In the morning we set off for Kent Narrows to spend an evening with good friends John and Barbara Locke. The wind of course was it's usual non-cooperative self and dropped into single digits from behind soon after going to sail. So we motored most of the way to Kent Narrows which fortunately wasn't very far.

We spent a fun evening with the Locke's who sponsored us with their yacht club at Kent Narrows for the night.

Tuesday morning we left Kent Narrows after getting some needed provisions and refueling. Then we headed out the channel and began to sail. Even though the wind was mostly behind us it was strong enough that we could have a pleasant sail. About midway up the Choptank River we changed our intended destination from Edgar Cove to Peachblossom Creek because the wind was perfect for that. So we were able to sail for about 5 hours very comfortably.

We anchored in Peachblossom Creek and had another very quiet and beautiful night. Enough wind to keep it comfortable as we were protected from the strong northeast winds.

Wednesday we went into the Boatyard where the boat is now for repairs. We pulled it out of the water initially to do the gelcoat repairs from the collision back in July but after pulling her out we decided we need to raise the waterline. Given all the added weight from our cruising outfitting most of our boot stripe was under water so we're raising it so we can bring up the bottom paint. If we continued running under water the barnacles will eat into the gelcoat and the continuing growth of slime will slow us down and increase fuel use.

Thursday we gt things wrapped up and headed for Illinois. We got out in early afternoon and spent the night in Dayton, Ohio and got to Champaign-Urbana, IL about noon Friday. Friday we met a college classmate, Greg Haugens for lunch. Great to see him and a super way to kick off our trip to visit friends and family.

Next update when we get back to the boat and finish our updates.

After one last day time to head back to the Bay

We continued our fun time in Cape May with a trip on our final day to Wildwood by the Sea, NJ to reminisce and visit eith some good friends that we met in the Bahamas. I haven't been to Wildwood in probably 25 years but it was a place where I spent time every summer from the time I was 3 feet tall.

The weather during our visit to Cape May was wonderful so after enjoying some time at Cape May Beach on Friday after doing some boat chores we took a cab over to Wildwood on Saturday. To my surprise despite all the changes it still looks the same. Linda commented that it was like going back in time as so many of the 50's and 60's icons looked brand new. The Boardwalk had the same buildings and even many of the same stores and restaurants.

Two big changes we found was serving alcohol on the boardwalk that only happened a couple years ago and the ocean is now far away from the Boardwalk. In fact sand dunes are being created as a protective barrier. When I was a kid and we went to the beach we sat under the Boardwalk out of the sun and then walked into the water. Now that walk would be at least a quarter to a half mile.

Saturday night we had dinner in Wildwood with Sue and Tom Jones who we met in the Bahamas and have a place in North Wildwood. As always it was great catching up and looking forward to seeing again in the south this winter.

But Sunday morning it was time to leave the Beach one more time as we continued our journey south. The forecast was daunting with heavy winds on the nose as a cold front passed through during the morning and the tide would be against us in the Bay and in the canal.

We left about 0600 in the early rays of daylight in the dewy calm at almost dead low tide. Fortunately the tide was till running out so we had current behind us through the channel into the ocean. We rounded Cape May Point on the inside of some very tricky shoals just off the Point known as "the rips" that had heavy opposing current and we quickly got out way into the Delaware Bay. This was the best way since we couldn't use the canal out the back side of the Cape that would have saved us over an hour.

With the tidal current running against us we stayed in the shallow water where the current would be less. The wind started out of the southeast but quickly turned to the north and built from a breeze to over 20 kts. Fortunately it was far enough off the nose that we were able to motor sail with the main and staysail. In the shallow water the chop and current were less so we were able to keep up speed over 7 kts. We knew that in a few hours the tide would turn giving us a boost. By late morning we were no longer opposing the tide and increased our speed to over 8 kts all the way to the C&D Canal.

When we got to the canal we were again opposing current but at least the sun was shining. The passing front brought in heavy cloud cover and the winds made for a cold trip although closing our enclosure helped. The tide in the canal also began to slacken and by the time we got through we had a favorable current helping us down the Chesapeake.

We made it to Worton Creek, the spot we anchored on the way north, a trip of over 90 miles in just over 12 hours. An average of over 7.5 kts in opposing winds and current. We dropped the hook and it set quickly. I even dove on it to ensure its set. A long day but any day on the boat is a great day!

Tonight the moon's first quarter shone brightly on the water as we ended the day with a dinner of the shrimp we bought in Stonington and a nice Spanish wine. A perfect ending to our northern summer trip north.

Now we prepare to head south in just a few weeks.

Enjoying South Jersey

After spending 2 nights in Atlantic Highlands observing the NY skyline across the Raritan Bay we moved further south. We left our nicely protected mooring just after lunch on Tuesday for our trip to Cape May.

Sandy Hook that was devastated in Hurricane Sandy. But a little power boat that apparently got too close to the beach.

Monday we spent walking around the town and catching a movie at the local cinema then going back to a nice dinner on board.

Monday evening I found that 2 of the screws had come out of one of our bilge lights in the cockpit lazarette so decided to take the launch into town to get some new screws to replace them. The bilge lights are the only ones I haven't completely replaced with LEDs. I have the replacements just need to get the all in. Now that I have some extra screws I will be more confident about doing the replacement.

We waited in Atlantic Highlands for a  small front to come through that had unsettled weather and some high winds. We would have liked to use the high winds to sail but the seas would have been uncomfortable so there was no need to be miserable so we waited and left Tuesday.

View of the Highlands.

We motored out and around Sandy Hook with little wind but a nice current. After a couple hours the wind began to build and we went to sail. Only problem was the wind was of course right on our nose. So we sailed very comfortably but needing to tack frequently. We made about 4 tacks and the wind began to die off. So, recognizing that neither o us would get any sleep if we had to tack every hour or so we went back to motor. Linda came on about midnight and we followed the contour of the Jersey shore at a safe distance until my watch came up about 0400.

Last views of NYC.

When I came on we actually had a nice breeze building on the beam so I went back to sail and we sailed right up until we needed to head into the channel at Cape May. Very nice sail doing about 6 kts with just comfortable chop for about 4 hours. Watched the lights of Wildwood turn into daylight with the Jersey shore skyline appear out of darkness.

We motored in the channel with the incoming tide and into the marina. Not much traffic asfolks were just starting to stir. We fueled up and then into a slip.

The end of South Jersey.

Today we did some more boat chores and biked around the town and back to the boat for a great dinner of the scallops we bought in Stonington. Tomorrow the beach!

The trip through Hell Gate!

Our much anticipated trip through New York did not disappoint. It had so many high points and thrills that it was better than any amusement park.

Some of the homes around Manhasset Bay at Port Washington.

For several days I had been studying the charts to calculate when we should leave Port Washington. Over the past 2 or 3 days I watched the current arrows on our chart plotter to ee how the current corresponded to the tide predictions. Then yesterday in the launch at Port Washington I asked the driver for any ideas and he said most people leave about an hour before high tide there (in Port Washington) and I decided that it made sense and fit with the strategy I had determined and so we decided that's when it would be.

Since high tide on PW was not until 1248 that meant we didn't need to leave until 1148 but I wanted to be there early so we planned to start the engine at 11 for warming up and then leave. We ha dour leisurely Sunday morning breakfast and got a pump out from the town dock and then at 11 we began the sequence.

Fort Totten, a now closed Army post built in the mid 19th century to protect New York with Fort Schuyler across the River.

Going out of Manhasset Bay we were fighting the incoming current but once we turned into the Sound we gained the speed and moved out quickly. There were 3 other trawlers heading toward the East River so I thought there would be a fleet going down the river but one by one they peeled off and disappeared.

I chose to go on Sunday for several reasons. It seemed like the weather would be cooperative. The heavy winds were not forecasted until late in the day and visibility was expected to be good. Both of these conditions held. High tide was around midday so we did not have to start early or finish late. As it was we started late morning and ended mid afternoon. On Sunday we did not expect much commercial traffic and with the weather forecast we didn't expect many recreational boats either. That was also true although we did see 3 barges coming into the sound who no doubt had come up the river on the rising tide. Finally, the UN begins their General Assembly this week and security closures will be enforced meaning we could miss an opportunity for a day or more any time after Tuesday so today was best with least risk.

Conditions were excellent when we tossed off our mooring lines this morning. Port Washington is an excellent stopover with free transient moorings for 48 hours. We were tempted to stay another day but the other conditions mitigated against it.

Once in the sound the traffic was busy but we soon lost them behind us as we got toward the river. NY's East River begins and Long Island Sound ends at the Throgs Neck Bridge. By that point the pleasure craft on the Sound were behind us. Three trawlers appeared to be heading down the river but one by one they turned around or pulled off. We very quickly passed 3 barges that had apparently used the current to get into the Sound to begin their journey North. So after the bridge it was just us. During the trip an occasional power boat passed us but for the bulk of the trip we were the only ones on the river.

The FDR Drive across from Roosevelt  Island.

Our speed started in the mid to upper 7 kt range but soon moved to the mid to upper 8 kt and then 9 kts and then 10 kts. Before we knew it we were passing Laguardia Airport. I took the cut between the Brother Islands just after Rikers Island and we were in Hell Gate. Our speed hit the mid 11 kt range and then went to the 12 kt range. The highest I saw was 12.2 kts but I was busy driving the boat. I felt like Humphrey Bogart driving the African Queen through the rapids and turns of the Ulana river. I also never realized how narrow the East River becomes through those turns before the Harlem River merges in. There were actually current waves from the wind blowing against the current and the swirling eddies of current as we flew through the turns.

Coming out into the straight away along Roosevelt Island the current continued at its fast pace. In no time we were down to where the backside flow merges and the river slowed a bit as it widened. But the pace quickened again around the Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges tour boats emerged. Then past Wall Street and we took the short cut behind Governor's Island to avoid all the ferries running just off the Battery and came out into the anchorage past about a dozen anchored ships.

In all our ~36 mile trip took almost exactly 4 hours giving us an average speed of 9 kts. We made the right decisions and improved our chances of success given the conditions. We took a mooring at Atlantic Highlands because the anchorage spots were exposed to the heavy winds and chop predicted for tonight and tomorrow.

We had planned to leave tomorrow for Cape May but we will ride out the rough weather and sail albeit slower on Tuesday when it's warmer.

Moving south and west through Long Island Sound

After the cold front and the threat of electrical storms passed we got an early start and left Stonington. We really enjoyed our stay there and could have stayed longer but the calendar was moving on.

Lighthouse on North Dumpling Island off Fisher's Island in NY.

Wind in the harbor was extremely light but as we got out into the sound it increased but initially behind us. We had about 60 miles to go and the current would be turning against us in a few hours so I suggested that we maximize our opportunity to cover as many miles quickly so we motor sailed more southerly than westerly so the current could move us west and so when it turned we would already be out of the heaviest flow. We were able to cover about 20 of the 60 miles before we went to sail.

The wind did come up and after motoring long enough to recharge the batteries we went to sail. For several hours we had winds in the 15-20 kt range and we flew down LI Sound. It wasn't until after noon that the current turned against us and we got to within 5 miles of Port Jefferson when the wind died completely. We then motored the rest of the way and into the mooring field. For about an hour the wind was over 20 kts and we sailed on our main and staysail.

Since Martha's Vineyard we realized that we are after the season so we called and without hesitation the Harbormaster indicated there would be moorings available and the launch would be happy to take us in. We got on our mooring now about midway trough Long Island Sound and our first port in New York, in fact we had our pick of moorings, in almost dead calm. We showered and called the launch and went to town for happy hour and then back to the boat for dinner.

The view from our cockpit n Port Jeff.

Port Jefferson was a very pleasant town but after a quiet night we were ready to move on to our next hometown of Port Washington.

We started out with little wind but a favorable current and covered the 30 nm very quickly under power. As we got about 5 nm away the wind came up but we had some tight channels to negotiate and then into the Bay so we opted to continue motoring. If we had been familiar with the area we might have sailed but we still were concerned about getting in and secured before the storms arrived.

Eaton Point Neck Light.

We called the Harbormaster and he indicated there should be no problem getting a mooring and we found one right away. We took the launch into town and had a great pizza lunch at Salvatore's did some shopping and then headed to take the launch back to the boat as the weather appeared more ominous.

Home of John Phillip Sousa.

Also waiting for the launch we met 2 other cruising couples. Another example of how small the world is it turns out they lived near where we used to live and used to keep their boats where we used to keep our boats. Hopefully we'll catch up with them again and share more stories. But the launch dropped us off and shortly thereafter it began to storm and the rains came.

Tonight it has been raining off and on, heavy and slow but b;owing constantly. Again, I'm sitting inside our enclosed cocoon feeling comfortable and secure with the elements raging outside.

Tomorrow we plan to do the East River sleigh ride and expect to spend tomorrow night at Sandy Hook, New Jersey. So far weather looks ok and we have a target time to leave. The wind generator should keep us charged up tonight and hopefully we will have some sail. Lots of good photo ops tomorrow.

The New York skyline.

Stonington and Mystic our first stop down the coast

We left Newport the day after Labor Day after taking care of some personal business first thing and rode the tide down Narragansett Bay. As we moved down the Bay the wind was building but right behind us.  Although, once we reached the ocean and turned south we could sail it. Near the end of the Bay we pulled out our sails and tacked out into Block Island Sound to get us past Point Judith and then turned southwest to parallel the coast.

With the wind out of the southwest we put in several tacks until the wind died off for a short while. As we began to position for our trip through the Passage the wind came back up stronger than before and we began moving smartly and we shot through the Passage rip with the wind ahead of the beam and the tide behind us running at 9 kts and hitting 10+ a few times. The Passage is 1 of 3 navigable cuts through the old wall that once contained Long Island Sound as a lake before the sea level rose to open it up.  Plum Gut, The Race and The Passage are like many of the cuts in the Bahamas and elsewhere where the current flows fast and strong through narrow and deep cuts in opposite directions when the tide changes. Through those 3 cuts flows all the water in the Long Island basin back and forth to the ocean. Not only is the current challenging, the barriers of the cuts have rocks that will easily puncture a boat unlucky enough to light upon them.

Once through the Passage we headed for Stonington Harbor and began pulling in our sails as we made into the channel and then onto a mooring where we spent 3 nights. Stonington is a quaint and charming town like most o the old New England seaports steeped in history and enjoyable for their iconic buildings and superlative dining opportunities.

After our arrival we took the launch to shore and wandered the streets admiring the buildings and stayed for dinner at the Dogwatch Cafe. Wednesday we thought would be our long day so we took a cab for the short trip over to Mystic. Mystic is famous for being the back story for the movie Mystic Pizza (which was really filmed in Stonington) but more importantly for the Mystic Seaport Museum.
As members of the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum we were able to gain members access to the museum and all their features. What an excellent trove of historical artifacts on display to tell the story of the seafaring life of 200 years ago. Mystic like Nantucket was a key driver of economic growth for a young country.

We planned to leave Thursday to head down the CT coast but a cold front moved through with heavy thunderstorms so we stayed put and decided we would head straight for Port Jefferson on Long Island and cut out the extra visit. So between storms we went ashore and walked around visiting the self-service store and buying some local shrimp and scallops for a later meal.

After 3 nights we left to head down the coast again.