Wednesday, October 23, 2024

This year's trip to the States

One of the ancient Sally Ports to the wall surrounding Old Cartagena
 

We just returned from our annual trip back to the States and I want more to record some reflections than simply provide a sequential recitation of events although I will include them.

This year our visit was more than just catching up with family and friends, we needed to not only buy our usual supply stocks but also material for our many projects we plan to achieve this year.  

Our first stop back in the States

Each year that we return to the States adjusting to the changes gets harder and harder. Flying back from the countries where we are and landing in a quickly evolving culture is shocking for many reasons. The first is the cost. We see it initially with hotels and rental cars. Because there is usually a year between visits the increases are dramatically visible. 

One of the new IP's ready for shipping

For the past almost 8 years we have lived in Central and South American countries where most things just cost less. Inflation in the US over the past few years has drastically widened the gap between what we are used to things costing to what they are in the US and the higher prices reduce our ability to freely enjoy our visit. Here in Colombia and when we were in Panama we enjoy a nice meal out for $30-40 for both of us with drinks. In the US, that can be the cost of one entree. In the US, hotels, rental cars, food and daily necessities are much more expensive. That's why there are so many expats in these countries.

Not the first stop but first that I remembered to picture. Grandson Keith in Asheville.

Secondly, in these countries we are visiting everything is chaotic and hectic but there is a simplicity, rhythm and consistency to it. Back in the US it's just chaos. We find people that drive ridiculously fast and people that drive ridiculously slow. TV is a waste. People are totally distracted. Even grocery shopping people are on the phone and not focused on their task. AI has taken over many things and not successfully. Customer-facing services are not customer-focused employing rigid rules imposed by techies that have no idea how things actually work. We have had several issues with that this year. And, trying to actually talk to anyone that knows anything at a big company is nearly impossible. 

Laying out our new sail in Annapolis

But, after being gone for 2 months and then landing back home on our boat in Colombia the past 2 months seem like just a dream that came and went. We are back in our reality And, as crude as it is we like it better. It's funny, when we worked and went on vacations to the tropics they seemed like a pleasant interlude and then back to the RW (Real World). Now, the pleasant interlude is our RW. When we walk in the evening and I hear the palms in the breeze I think back to when we used to hear that on vacations and think how exotic. Now, I wonder if a squall is approaching. 

Lunch in Ridley, PA with college classmates and friends. L to R, Mike Campbell (classmate), Missy Trumbo (wife) Cliff Trumbo (classmate), us, Chris Edwards (widow of Joe Edwards)
 

We really enjoy all of the places and people we visit. Each place we stop there are more people we want to visit, more things we want to do and more time we want to spend. After last year we thought that we wanted to spend less time away from home so I shortened the time between our flights. Well, even before we flew back we realized it wasn't enough time. Appointments kept getting added to the schedule and that kept pushing back other visits. After we changed our return flight we had enough time to do everything.

Lunch with classmate Craig Glassner and his lovely wife Cheryl in Lewes, DE. Our hailing Port.
 

It's difficult to convey the mixture of emotions and sensations each time we leave our boat home and travel to a terrestrial being for a period of time. We see things we know but they're different. We see people living in their own realities that is so different from our own. And, we experience immediate price inflation everywhere we turn. People that live with it daily are at least numbed to it but as I said we usually get a meal for both of us for around $40 and there we're faced with paying double that. 

Dinner with Granddaughter Rebecca in Philly.
 

Everything becomes surreal interacting with people that have no concept of our lives and I imagine it's like that for anyone living in a foreign culture and then returning to one they have been familiar with. Then, once we're back the dream is over and we're back to what we know and have become accustomed to.

We stopped at Hammonds Pretzels in Lancaster, PA to buy several pounds of pretzels to bring back.
 

Our trip this year had the usual objectives of visiting family and friends and the usual medical reviews. This year I had the additional medical requirement for a Colonoscopy since it had been ten years. That got scheduled before we got to the States and pushed back everything else in our schedule. But, more importantly this year was buying all the materials for our projects and shipping them back to Colombia. That took on a life all its own.

While in Lancaster we went shooting with long time friend Charlie Miller.
 

The project support about which I've written before required many phases. The first was to identify the vendors that would actually perform the work. We spent much of the time doing that before we left for the States. Next, since we were providing all the materials for the work we had to identify the quantities and sizes of the materials required. Then we had to find the best suppliers. Finally we had to purchase them and get them shipped either to us to take back to Colombia or send them to our freight-forwarder for commercial shipping. Of course, just doing that meant tracking everything from shipping until delivery in Colombia and chasing down the occasional mavericks that went awry. 

While in Annapolis we had a new sail bag made to replace one of our aging ones that we used anyway.
 

Everything we ordered was delivered without incident. Nothing broken or lost. To minimize domestic US shipping we delivered 8 packages directly to our freight forwarder, but had to ship the 4 largest packages to them because we didn't have enough room in our car. But, we could ship them in Florida that minimized the cost.

Our car heading to Punta Gorda.
 

This trip we also found several technical glitches that caused more than there share of frustration and expense. The first was when we were leaving Colombia the airline counter agent informed us that we owed an exit tax that nobody else seemed to know about but we had to pay an additional $33 each because we were in Colombia over 60 days. We're still fighting this because we don't think we owed it. I don't think most airlines bother with it.

Our friends Rick and Nancy on MV Standown who we stayed with in St Augustine and visited on the way soouth in Beaufort, NC.

Next, our rental car presented several challenges that was a constant drag on our time and money. There was nothing wrong with the car and although we had to wait a little while for it, it was relatively on time. So, we left Miami on our way to the Island Packet factory in Largo, FL which is near St Petersburg, FL and I got the sense our SunPass was not working even though we loaded the car tag onto our account. When we got to our hotel that night I checked our account and the license was not listed. I tried to list it and I got a message that the tag was listed to another transponder. I called SunPass and was told that indeed the previous renter had not canceled his registration. I called the Hertz office and the next morning I loaded the tag to our account. But, this was just the first hassle.

Linda's son Seth who we spent several weeks with in Annapolis. At Pusser's Dock Bar.
 

Several toll roads later we found out that our transponder was not working. Now we had the challenge of getting a new transponder and trying to pay the tolls before the got back to Hertz where we would have lots of additional fees. We did get a new transponder and I was able to pay some of the tolls but several did get back to Hertz.

Breakfast in Norfolk with my son Jeremy on our way south.
 

The next rental car issue came about when I tried to extend the rental for our new departure date. Normally it would not have been a big deal. But, our credit cards were expiring in a few months and in an effort to be sure we had our new ones before we left I called our bank to try to get new ones. Well, of course I got an automated system that mistook my request and canceled our cards. We got new ones issued right away but I wasn't able to extend the old contract with an extension on the old credit card. I'll spare you the details but it ended up costing us an extra $500 in addition to paying for the additional time.

 

After dinner in Little River, SC with Pam from Castalia.

The itinerary of our trip was similar to last year. A big regret is that we never remember to take all the pictures we needed. We arrived into Miami where we picked up our rental car. This year we had to immediately drive up to the Island Packet factory to drop off the templates for our new counters that they are making for us. The next day we drove back across Florida to visit friends and my daughter before going to Jacksonville for some medical appointments. Then to Asheville, NC to visit a grandson, Knoxville to visit a granddaughter and the to the Chicago area to visit some of Linda's family and our 

A get-together in Streamwood, IL with Linda's family

friends. From there we went to spend a few weeks with Linda's son Seth in Annapolis where we did lots of business. Side trips to PA to visit some of my family and friends, Lewes DE to visit a college classmate before heading back south. On our way south our first stop was Norfolk, VA to visit one of my sons, Beaufort to visit our friends on Stand Down with whom we had stayed in St Augustine for several nights. Then down to Little River, SC to visit our friend Pam from Castalia who was helping a friend through surgery and we spent a night. Then back to Jacksonville, Sanford with a stop back at the factory and then a visit with my classmate and our friends Jack and Dora in Punta Gorda. Then back to Miami and Colombia.

Getting ready to say goodbye to classmate Jack and his lovely wife Dora in Punta Gorda, FL the day before Helene went through.
 

During the 2 months we were back in the States we dealt with 3 major tropical weather systems. The first one, Debbie roared through when we were in St Petersburg starting out with heavy wind and rain and stayed with us for several days until we got to Asheville. Then on the way south we got into an unnamed system after we left Norfolk that was all along the coast down to Jacksonville with heavy rains and wind. Finally, we left Punta Gorda just as Hurricane Helene was moving in and the day after we left Punta Gorda suffered sever flooding. All we experienced was heavy wind and rain bands. Of course a day after that it hit North Carolina.

Always a welcome sign for many reasons.
 

So much happened in a relatively short period of time and through it all we longed to be home. Now that we're back it was just a dream and we're glad to be home although we had such a great time with our families and friends.

Our "Welcome Home"


 

 

 



Thursday, July 25, 2024

Trip to the Amazon

 

Letitia, Colombia with the Brazil border in the background.

When we came to Colombia we came with two objectives. The first was to do deep long-term maintenance on the boat since we have now lived on the boat full-time for 10 years. The second objective was to travel throughout South America. 

The busy market street in Letitia on our way to the boat.
 

In the past few months we have spent a lot of time getting into the work and a lot of time working on lining up the contractors to do some of the bigger and more complex tasks.  In furtherance of this objective we have a local helper who is doing a lot of the physical work so I can focus on the other projects that I need to do. But, we took a few days and left the boat to do some travel while our helper did some tasks we needed done.

Looking across the water to Fantasy Island
                                                    An Amazonian delicacy Mohohoy
The Letitia Waterfront
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our first trip was over 4 days and we traveled to the Colombian Amazon. The Amazon is the largest fresh water system in the world and is in 5 countries. It starts in Peru and has tributaries in Ecuador, Colombia and Venezuela although the bulk of the river is in Brazil. So a little tip of Colombia borders on the Peru and Brazil at the Amazon.


Our hotel




 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The primary Colombian town on the Amazon is Letitia. Letitia is a town of about 50,000 people and across the Brazilian border is the town of Tabatinga with a population of about 70,000. So combined the community has about 120,000 people. It is served by 2 airports and the river. Letitia has an international airport and Tabatinga has an regional airport that provides service to other parts of Brazil. These two towns are surrounded by tropical rain forest. There are no roads to them from anywhere and everything comes in by air or water. The Amazon is the major highway.

The blue circled area is the part of the world we're talking about. Peru is to your left and Brazil is to your right.

Our trip started early on Monday 8 July. Our flight from Cartagena was at 6:30AM so we got to the airport about 0430. Check in was quick and easy. There are 2 airlines that provide service from Cartagena to Letitia, Avianca and Latam. We found the fares on Avianca to be much cheaper and we've flown Avianca before. Each airline has 1 flight a day from Bogota to Letitia.

Closeup showing Letitia to the right and further up river is Puerto Narino.

So after our layover in Bogota and the flight we arrived at Letitia about 11:30 AM. Letitia has a tourist tax that they collect at the airport. It is currently 20,000COP which is about $5 USD. I didn't ask about senior citizen exclusion although I should have. We found out later some of the fees are waived for seniors. 



Scenes from Tabatinga

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quite by accident we found our airport shuttle. Linda had tried to call the hotel about transport and we looked over all the information before we left and found nothing about airport pickup. When we tried calling the hotel before we left there was no answer so we were pleasantly surprised to find a valet holding a sign for our hotel.  He asked our names and he didn't have us on the list. But, then he showed us the list and we were on his list but with no arrival information. So we got a comfortable ride to the hotel.



 The Amazon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When we originally talked about going to the Amazon we agreed we didn't want to sleep in mosquito nets at night. So, after reading lots of reviews we decided to book at the Decameron hotel which was pricer than most of the others but it included breakfast and dinner, air-conditioned rooms, hot water, a pool and guest services. Decameron is a chain and has several hotels in Colombia. We also bought bug repellent and bug repellent soap in Cartagena. The soap is made in Colombia and is 22% deet and is supposed to last for 8 hours. 

A river cruise boat plying up the river.

Our bus pulled up in front of the hotel and we walked in. We were immediately impressed. The reception desk told us our room wasn't ready so we were guided to the guest services and booked a tour for the next day. We then found our way to lunch in the restaurant and continued to be impressed. When we saw our room we were totally impressed. The room was simple, but very comfortable. We weren't sleeping in mosquito nets. 

With our bags stowed we went out for a walk and walked across the border and around in Tabatinga, Brazil before walking back to our room for dinner.

Our first stop at Monkey Island

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meals were included and we found they had a fixed menu for breakfast and had 8 different menus for dinner that included an appetizer, soup, main course and desert. It also included water or carbonated water. Drinks were extra but very reasonably priced. The portions were not huge but were sufficient and the preparation, presentation and service were very good. The restaurant wasn't gourmet but it was good quality. 

This little guy jumped when I took the picture.

                                                                 Got a monkey on my back

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Located about 4 degrees southern lattitude brings into play many factors. In the southern hemisphere it is winter and the dry season. As a result, the level of the river is about 30' lower than it is in rainy season. There was also no standing water or mud and I can safely say we saw no mosquitos anywhere around the town.  


More Monkey pics


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The main event of our trip was a 1 day tour up the Amazon to Puerto Narino with some intermediate stops. Puerto Narino and Letitia are the only two Colombian ports on the Amazon and the two largest towns. The Colombian border on the Amazon ends shortly after Puerto Narino and turns north away from the river. There is a long history of how Colombia got this little peninsula jutting into Brazil and Peru and bordering on the Amazon and most of it within the past 200 years. Currently the Colombian Armada (armed forces) has a large military base outside Letitia I assume to quell any claims from others that might be interested in this little spit of territory.


Lush jungle foliage on Monkey Island.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Since we wanted to maximize our tour we paid extra to hire a guide that spoke English and we're really glad we did. He was very knowledgeable and knew many of the people we met. We met in the hotel and the guides led us through town down to the river bank to board our launcha for the trip.


The Shaman narrating the ritual 

                                                       Linda adorned for the ceremony

Music to the drums
 
                                                                               My head dress

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Letitia waterfront is along what appeared to be a creek that led off into the main river. On the other side of the creek was an area called Fantasy Island because it just appeared. Several years previous some debris piled up at that spot and built up debris and sediment to make a large island. There are many houses on it but the government doesn't recognize it and there are no services to it. When we saw it the water was only maybe 50' wide. But in the rainy season it becomes 150 meters or more wide. Residents travel back and forth by boat.

Looking down river from Port Narino.
Shops, stores and services along the river
 

The passenger dock for Puerto Narino. As the water rises during the rainy season the floating dock moves up the stairs and will be close to the level of the dock in the sky.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Going down the creek we saw docks full of small power boats, canoes and many buildings sitting on pontoons so they could rise and fall with the river. All along the creek houses and walkways were built on stilts for the rainy season.


Our lunch spot
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Going up the river was fascinating. The water was muddy and full of hyacinths and lily pads growing autonomously. There was also lots of debris floating down. In spots the river was wide and in other spots the islands made it narrow. We passed lots of traffic on the river that ranged from large commercial craft to small home built ones. A common site was a canoe type boat of varying size with what looked like a lawnmower engine with a long shaft and a prop. They were everywhere.


The observation tower and views in Puerto Narino

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our first stop going up the river was at Monkey Island. Walking down a jungle trail it didn't take long before the monkeys were all over us. As far as I could tell nobody was feeding them and they were just curious about us and wanted to play. The island had typical jungle foliage that was lush despite the obvious signs it was the dry season. The monkeys were fun.

I love Puerto Narino with images of the Amazon dolphins.
 

Our second stop was at a Ticuna village in the territory of Macedonia. The Ticuna are one of the several indigenous tribes that live in the Colombian Amazon. We went into one of their large houses where they had craft tables set up for sale and performed the Pelazon ceremony which is the coming of age ceremony for a woman. A local Shaman narrated the event. Our guide told us they had the best crafts so we indulged and bought gifts there.


Our last stop at the Lotus Flower Resort
                            Wild macaws
 

 

 

 A Pink Lotus flower

 

 

 

After our brief stay we motored on to Puerto Narino. At several points along the way we saw Amazon gray and pink dolphins. We even saw some of the gray dolphins jump. The Amazon dolphins are smaller than their offshore cousins and the pink look totally different.

Heading back to our boat over the wooden walkways


 Late afternoon

 

 

 

 

 

 

We arrived at Puerto Narino on a nice new dock structure that we had to climb up because of the low water. The entrance fee was waived for us being senior citizens. We proceeded on to our lunch.


                                    Stands on the produce market in Letitia
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was a large, very nice restaurant that was busy with many people having lunch. It was a cafeteria-style lunch with as much as you wanted to eat with several fish dishes, multiple kinds of rice and some other delicacies. After eating more than we should our guide told us about an observation tower and helado stand to visit. After visiting them we were running short on time and just visited a chocolate factory to buy some samples and headed back to the boat. 

A restaurant along the street showing all 3 national flags on their sign
An elevated walkway from the central district.

 A levee to keep water out of this area

 

 

 

 

 

 

When we arrived on the dock we found we were the first ones back. When our guide arrived he told us that in Colombia they always tell you a time earlier than they want because everyone will show up late. We didn't get the memo and thought the time was the time. At lunch we met a man from Bogota who was traveling with his son and they spoke English so we had a pleasant conversation. 

Elevated walkways to elevated homes. Many of these walkways were one or two boards wide.
                    A stream running under the walkway even in dry season
 

 

More elevated homes and the walkway between the rows of houses.

 

 

 

 

On the way back down the river we spent more time dolphin watching that caused us to miss a stop in Peru so we went straight to the Lotus Flower Nature Preserve as our last stop. The grounds were beautiful with some resident Macaws, lotus flowers and Amazon catfish. But, with the sun setting we headed back to Letitia and the end of a long day.

Displays in the Ethnographic Museum. 
                    Blowguns and poison darts
Adornments from ceremonies

                                         Hunting spears

 

 


 

 

 

Our second day we got up later after getting up early the previous two days and spent the time leisurely walking around the town. We went through the public market and the Ethnographic Museum and ended up in the pool enjoying the remainder of the day.

These were taken outside of the museum and the lighting makes them hard to read. The display to left is the annual level of the river by month.
 

This chart shows the rainfall in the Amazon region. The interesting point is that one line represents rain in the northern hemisphere and the other in the southern hemisphere. When one is low, the other is high. 

 

 

 

That night Colombia played in a semi-final round of the All-Americas Cup and won to move on to the Championship. The win was followed by fireworks, horn blaring and lots of party music. Always a party in Colombia.

 

Our room had a screened in porch with this nice hammock.

The next day, we got up late, had breakfast, checked out and flew back to Cartagena. Our adventure was over.

Debris and hyacinths floating in the river
 

It was a good trip that left us interested to go back again. All the flights were on-time, comfortable and we had no issues getting through the terminals. The Amazon is a sight to behold.


 The Amazon